Ryde _Or_Die

Alright I've got the intercooler off, and the 4 12mm nuts off from the passenger side of the it. Now what do I have to remove on the drivers side, where the throttle body is? Does the throttle body have to come off with it or what? Thanks. Kinda in the middle of this.

Ryde _Or_Die

Oh and if theres a write-up somewhere on how to do this it would be great. I am changing the PD and putting some larger injectors in. Thanks.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

You mean you've never pulled the upper intake manifold before?

Off the top of my head -

- Pull intercooler
- Remove throttle and cruise control cables
- Unplug BAC, TPS, and intake air temp sensor
- Undo the 3 vacuum lines on the front of the manifold
- Undo the 4 vacuum lines on the back of the manifold
- Undo the brake booster rubber vacuum line
- Remove the 4 nuts attaching the manifold to the lower intake manifold - there's also a bolt there in the middle
- There may be a nut holding the throttle body inlet to the intercooler bracket - that's a bitch to take off. If it's not there, someone already fought that battle - I always leave it off. Might have to remove the oil fill neck to get to it.
- Undo the oil metering pump rod from the throttle body
- Lift up on the upper intake manifold and try to undo the 90 degree coolant hose going from the back of the block to the throttle body
- Swear a lot and end up cutting that damn hose
- Sit on ground with upper intake manifold and dumb grin.

It's really not that time consuming to do - the more you do it, the faster you get as well. You can change the pulsation dampener without removing the primary fuel rail - that would be the easiest way to go.

Dale

SLOWT2

there will be a 12 mm nut right by the rats nest of vac lines it is the only part still holding it on, after that you have 3 vac lines on the front side and 4 on the back side to take off, then you have to undo a cotter pin that is holding your opm rod to your tb, there is a hose that goes to your brake booster, that has to be removed... ummmm, there is 4 plugs that have to be unpluged one for you tps, one one the drivers side before the tb, and 2 behind thte uppermanifold itself... i dont think i missed anything......

--joe

zub

don't forget the bolt on the top...goes with the four nuts on the passenger side......kicked myself after missing it for 15 minutes and not being able to tell what was holding it on.

I took the TB off with my intake....believe there were bolt downs where the intercooler support bracket mounts. Should be able to find them by inspection.

The rest of the intake connections were easy to see by trying to SLOWLY lift the intake off and see what else was still connected.

zub

Ryde _Or_Die

Alright I have it disconnected. But I am trying to remove as little as possible when it comes to little hoses and ****. I will never remember what goes where. I took out the little pin up front and now I can get to the secondary fuel rail enough to change my injectors I think. And man, I always thought the PD was on my 2ndary rail, but its on the primary. Hey any pics would be great or links to changing the PD. That way I can see what goes where. Thanks alot guys.

Oh and dale, nope never had to take off my upper intake manifold. But I know it won't be the last.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

To do the pulsation dampener, you WILL have to completely remove the manifold. The only thing I think you could get away with is MAYBE leaving the 90 degree coolant hose intact. You will have to get it up and out of the way so you have room to work.

Also, it's a good idea to disconnect the battery while doing this work - it's REAL easy to touch a tool to the main post of the alternator and blow a fuse. Been there, done that. You can also remove the alternator for some extra room to maneuver.

Dale

Ryde _Or_Die

Well I have been trying to get the whole upper manifold off but something is holding it down. How do I disconnect the "throttle cables" (I guess)? The ones on the rear of it? I got all the hoses I can see off and still can't get it off. Oh and dale, I'll let you know now, I'm going to need your help putting it back on, lol. I don't know what hose goes where already.

Ryde _Or_Die

Ok success! Kinda at least. Got it off, well enough so I can get to both rails. Now the PD doesn't look bad at all. Doesn't seem like it was leaking, but it must have been right? There was a good size puddle of fuel after only a few minutes. I'm going to change it either way, but I sure hope it was the problem.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Just jumper the yellow fuel pump check connector to run the fuel pump, and watch for leaks. It takes NO time to see where the fuel is leaking from.

Dale

AreExSeven

Speaking of which. How do you jumper that connector? Is there another connector you plug into it? And is it the same as if you were to turn the car into the "on" position and let the fuel pump go?

Im asking cause I have to prime my lines cause I just put my rebuilt engine in. How long do you have to let it run before it is fully primed?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Uh, you get a wire, strip both ends, and shove it into the connector. Done. Documented in both the shop and Haynes manuals.

With the key in the On position, the fuel pump won't run. You jumper the connector and turn the key to On, then the fuel pump will run continuously until you remove the jumper wire or turn the key off.

Dale

Ryde _Or_Die

Would work except the battery is dead. Hmm..I guess I'll charge it up to check to make sure thats where the fuel leak was, just to be safe. I sure don't want my car sitting any longer than possible.

Oh ya, I didn't know there was some coolant line that I had to disconnect.

And it looks to me the way to remove the PD is with an open-end wrench(23mm?)? Is that all there is to it, unscrew it, and screw the new one back in?

Oh and damn I wish it would either rain all the way so I can give up for the day or it would not rain at all Keep having to go inside and outside and ****.

Alright thanks guys.