2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

removing UIM right now, need a little help..

Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:15 PM
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removing UIM right now, need a little help..

hi i am half way done remove the upper intake manifold to replace a bunch of vac lines, i have so far removed:
bolts\nuts from lim to uim, 3 brace bolts, 7 or 8 hoses, and 3 or 4 clips,
what else is there, i know i got some peice that go to the trottle body, and the cruise line and accelerator line,
what other major peices/obsticals and i about ot embark on i got about 2 or 3 hours left to remove it replace lines and put it back on, although putting it back on has always been the easyer part with ever thing else, last week i took of the lim with remove the uim and it was easyer getting it back on and in place then getting it off, thanks rotormasters
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:21 PM
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Is the UIM not coming off or something? Sounds like you got everything so I'm not sure what you're asking.
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:25 PM
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dont hook up the coolant line that goes to the rear housing to the brake booster, you wont be happy
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:29 PM
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ok, just got he coolant line off, the fuel is next, now i didnt unpresserize, i didnt when i changed fuel filter eather,...
here comes the spray, thanks guys
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:30 PM
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Just curious; what are you fixing/replacing?
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:32 PM
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Why dont you put a C clamp on the fuel line to stop it from spraying everywhere? There will still be some spillage but it will be minimized.

EDIT: If you have an extra BAC water hose put that in place of the short 90* bend from the rear housing to the TB. It'll make things much easier everytime you take off the UIM after that.

Last edited by ilike2eatricers; Apr 12, 2005 at 09:35 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:39 PM
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wont the c clamp brake it, everything else i put under any kind of stess cracks, or is there a big diffrence between vac and fuel lines?
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:46 PM
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If your fuel lines will crack from crimping them with a C clamp I think you they should be replaced. Most C clamps have rubber boots on them to prevent marring. It's up to you if you want to do this I was just giving suggestions.
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by lastphaseofthis
wont the c clamp brake it, everything else i put under any kind of stess cracks, or is there a big diffrence between vac and fuel lines?
If a c-clamp breaks or cracks the line, it's time to replace it for certain. New line is flexible enough to do this to.
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 10:28 PM
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ok the front fuel line is off, does the one of the back need to come off next, and it still feals like something is holding on in the back, what could it b any ideas?
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 11:47 PM
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ok the UIM is off!
but now i need some more assistance,
all the vac hoses are being a bitch trying to get on to the nipples,
some of the old plastic nipples have broken off, and i have no "T" connectors to add them in some were else, mainly the one that goes to the oil shooter that is on the LIM.
at first i tried microwaving the vac lines, but after 15 secs in a cup of water they were really really hot, so i canceled that idea, and have tryed oil, but now it just slipps off, any ideas guys
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 12:04 AM
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I thought you were replacing the vac lines under there and that was the whole point. So you broke the 4 nipples on the OMP spider? If you are really desperate for vac line just steal them off your windshield wiper nozzles for now and you can also take some tees or or 2 way connectors.
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 12:39 AM
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ok omp spider, yes 2 of the 4 nipples broke, oops, in any case going to auto zone earlyin the morning for a new omp spider, and a new check valve(it broke also).
thanks for all your help, i did manage to get all the parts on hand i had installed now i just need to get the last few things and i am done.
damn i wish i lived next to advance auto....
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