Removing Crankshaft Bolt
#1
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Removing Crankshaft Bolt
i need help to remove the crankshaft bolt that is stuck.. not the 4 10mm bolts but the 19mm i think. the engine is in the car, not all together yet.i think i might have to put a breaker bar on and turn over the engine.. i just didnt want to do that. im being lazy and am in the house instead of working on it. i want to put shims on the bolt.. thanks alot..
#2
IIMMM BBAAACCKKK!!
iTrader: (8)
first off... its an eccentric shaft, not a crankshaft second... you might want to read up on the thrust bearing that resides behind that bolt... w/out keeping the clutch engaged, you run the problem of the bearing falling down and thus one hell of a headache! so what do you need this off for? are you putting in a thermal pellet? i noticed you said you wanted to shim the bolt?? what for?
#3
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To get the big 19mm loose, you usually have to heat it with a torch for several minutes to melt the locktite on the threads. Even my strong 600ftlb impact won't usually take them off without heat.
Why are you doing this? As mentioned above, this is a job easily screwed up when doing it in the car.
Why are you doing this? As mentioned above, this is a job easily screwed up when doing it in the car.
#4
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what kind of signs or sounds would u get from ur thrust bearing not be in place.....i had to replace my front gaskit...but i used a 2by4 to hold the clutch down until i did my job..all this while my engine was in the car...
#6
Also a question... is it (the eccentric shaft bolt on the front of the engine, right-hand threaded, or reverse threaded? Also, how do you guys hold the engine still while removing the bolt, if it's out of the vehicle? Thanks so much for any information!
-Parker.
-Parker.
#7
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It's like RETED has repeated time and time and time and time and time and time and time and time again. Get a breakover bar with socket. Lay breakover bar against the left frame. Momentarily put the key to Start. Bolt is now loose.
Reinstall with lockitite per the FSM plus the required ft/lbs.
Sounds like your trying to solve a low oil psi problem with shimming. Oh well.
Reinstall with lockitite per the FSM plus the required ft/lbs.
Sounds like your trying to solve a low oil psi problem with shimming. Oh well.
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#8
it's actualy not in a vehicle, as i had previously stated im my post, it came on a pallet, and as of yet has no home, so sadly enough i dont' thave that option. though, i actally made that woek with a torch, and am now trying to figure out how in the world to remove the 54mm guy on the backside.
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It's like RETED has repeated time and time and time and time and time and time and time and time again. Get a breakover bar with socket. Lay breakover bar against the left frame. Momentarily put the key to Start. Bolt is now loose.
Reinstall with lockitite per the FSM plus the required ft/lbs.
Sounds like your trying to solve a low oil psi problem with shimming. Oh well.
Reinstall with lockitite per the FSM plus the required ft/lbs.
Sounds like your trying to solve a low oil psi problem with shimming. Oh well.
That was meant for the fellow who created this post/thread.
#10
rx-for-my-7
iTrader: (1)
54mm Removal Like This
To the OP, use a breaker bar. Mine came off with a good effort.
For ParkerBender it's the same thing but bigger breaker bar.
Hold flywheel w/ stopper or a chain-
Get a 54mm socket and breaker bar-
Big Pipe-
I had my dad and my brother stand on a board laid over the engine mount to keep it from moving while I broke it loose.
Done-
For ParkerBender it's the same thing but bigger breaker bar.
Hold flywheel w/ stopper or a chain-
Get a 54mm socket and breaker bar-
Big Pipe-
I had my dad and my brother stand on a board laid over the engine mount to keep it from moving while I broke it loose.
Done-
#11
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it's actualy not in a vehicle, as i had previously stated im my post, it came on a pallet, and as of yet has no home, so sadly enough i dont' thave that option. though, i actally made that woek with a torch, and am now trying to figure out how in the world to remove the 54mm guy on the backside.
Jpg was stolen from a skilled mech on this forum.
#13
My job is to blow **** up
iTrader: (8)
To the OP, use a breaker bar. Mine came off with a good effort.
For ParkerBender it's the same thing but bigger breaker bar.
Hold flywheel w/ stopper or a chain-
I had my dad and my brother stand on a board laid over the engine mount to keep it from moving while I broke it loose.
Done-
For ParkerBender it's the same thing but bigger breaker bar.
Hold flywheel w/ stopper or a chain-
I had my dad and my brother stand on a board laid over the engine mount to keep it from moving while I broke it loose.
Done-
the last one i had i broke 4 breaker bars, 1 ampro, 2 craftsmen, 1 husky. then i picked the engine up threw it in the back of my caddy, and took it to a friend with a 1400LBS IMPACT. rich bastard.
Last edited by lastphaseofthis; 03-31-08 at 09:11 PM. Reason: removed cludder (pics)
#14
rx-for-my-7
iTrader: (1)
I'm not saying I'm super human strong man, that's where a 4 foot pipe comes in handy. Even a 160 lb guy like me can generate a lot of toque with a cheater bar.
I have broken the flywheel nut loose like this on two different cars, but obviously you might have different results. I never broke either Craftsman socket or breaker bar. I don't have access to a 1,400 lb impact.
I have broken the flywheel nut loose like this on two different cars, but obviously you might have different results. I never broke either Craftsman socket or breaker bar. I don't have access to a 1,400 lb impact.
#19
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The bad one was on a rebuild with 25k. On the others I've tried, I knew to hit it with a propane torch first. I had a hard time with the flywheel nut on one with 90k original miles. I had a breaker with a 3' pipe and just bounced on it with my full weight, so there was at least 800 pounds of pressure when you figure in the fact I was bouncing on it. It still took 20 seconds to break off. I had to get a rear counterweight puller to get the damn thing off, too.