Removing Crankshaft Bolt
 

i need help to remove the crankshaft bolt that is stuck.. not the 4 10mm bolts but the 19mm i think. the engine is in the car, not all together yet.i think i might have to put a breaker bar on and turn over the engine.. i just didnt want to do that. im being lazy and am in the house instead of working on it. i want to put shims on the bolt.. thanks alot..

first off... its an eccentric shaft, not a crankshaft;) second... you might want to read up on the thrust bearing that resides behind that bolt... w/out keeping the clutch engaged, you run the problem of the bearing falling down and thus one hell of a headache! so what do you need this off for? are you putting in a thermal pellet? i noticed you said you wanted to shim the bolt?? what for?

To get the big 19mm loose, you usually have to heat it with a torch for several minutes to melt the locktite on the threads. Even my strong 600ftlb impact won't usually take them off without heat.

Why are you doing this? As mentioned above, this is a job easily screwed up when doing it in the car.

what kind of signs or sounds would u get from ur thrust bearing not be in place.....i had to replace my front gaskit...but i used a 2by4 to hold the clutch down until i did my job..all this while my engine was in the car...

only once have I had to heat up the main bolt, just got to break them lose with a breaker bar to start.

Also a question... is it (the eccentric shaft bolt on the front of the engine, right-hand threaded, or reverse threaded? Also, how do you guys hold the engine still while removing the bolt, if it's out of the vehicle? Thanks so much for any information!


-Parker.

It's like RETED has repeated time and time and time and time and time and time and time and time again. Get a breakover bar with socket. Lay breakover bar against the left frame. Momentarily put the key to Start. Bolt is now loose.

Reinstall with lockitite per the FSM plus the required ft/lbs.

Sounds like your trying to solve a low oil psi problem with shimming. Oh well.

it's actualy not in a vehicle, as i had previously stated im my post, it came on a pallet, and as of yet has no home, so sadly enough i dont' thave that option. though, i actally made that woek with a torch, and am now trying to figure out how in the world to remove the 54mm guy on the backside.

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That was meant for the fellow who created this post/thread.

54mm Removal Like This
 

To the OP, use a breaker bar. Mine came off with a good effort.

For ParkerBender it's the same thing but bigger breaker bar.

Hold flywheel w/ stopper or a chain-
Attachment 700652

Get a 54mm socket and breaker bar-
Attachment 700653

Big Pipe-
Attachment 700654

I had my dad and my brother stand on a board laid over the engine mount to keep it from moving while I broke it loose.

Done-
Attachment 700655

:icon_tup:

It's a piece of cake. Look at the jpg attached. You get a thick piece of angle iron or equiv, and then bolt it to the flywheel. Use the holes for the pressure plate. Then buy a 20lb sledge hammer. Cost under twenty bucks. Strike the breakover bar, that has the appropriate socket, a couple of times. Heat the nut if needed. Should not be needed even though the nut should have been put on with locktite or the equiv.


Jpg was stolen from a skilled mech on this forum.

Thats a good idea with the angle iron.

sorry, i dont care how strong you are, not all flywheel nuts come off with the same amount of force.
the last one i had i broke 4 breaker bars, 1 ampro, 2 craftsmen, 1 husky. then i picked the engine up threw it in the back of my caddy, and took it to a friend with a 1400LBS IMPACT. rich bastard.

I'm not saying I'm super human strong man, that's where a 4 foot pipe comes in handy. Even a 160 lb guy like me can generate a lot of toque with a cheater bar.

I have broken the flywheel nut loose like this on two different cars, but obviously you might have different results. I never broke either Craftsman socket or breaker bar. I don't have access to a 1,400 lb impact.

all i did was i got my cheater bar and a 54mm and gave it about 5 good wacks with a hammer (when in doubt use a bigger hammer)

I broke a craftsman breaker bar on the front pulley nut before I heated it with a torch. I also stripped out a craftsman socket wrench and sheared off a craftsman impact-grade 1/2" adapter.

well i broke 2 snap-on rachets on the front pulley bolt (friend had my cheater bar)and i ended up geting it off with a cheap craftsman

I have heard horror stories about these nuts being stuck on there. I am thankful both of mine came off like they did. The last one was on a freshly rebuilt motor though, but the first was on a car with 120,xxx miles.

The bad one was on a rebuild with 25k. On the others I've tried, I knew to hit it with a propane torch first. I had a hard time with the flywheel nut on one with 90k original miles. I had a breaker with a 3' pipe and just bounced on it with my full weight, so there was at least 800 pounds of pressure when you figure in the fact I was bouncing on it. It still took 20 seconds to break off. I had to get a rear counterweight puller to get the damn thing off, too.