Removing ABS pump ( I tried searching... )
07-04-03, 12:30 AM
#1
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Removing ABS pump ( I tried searching... )
This was the best I could find...
http://rxseven.freeservers.com/rx7_abs_removal.htm
Anyone have a better write up with pictures perhaps?
Im trying to read through this one but its a little confusing to me
http://rxseven.freeservers.com/rx7_abs_removal.htm
Anyone have a better write up with pictures perhaps?
Im trying to read through this one but its a little confusing to me
07-04-03, 07:25 PM
#2
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I wrote this one:
Inboost's ABS removal write-up
Let me know if you need any help understanding what I've done!
Inboost's ABS removal write-up
Let me know if you need any help understanding what I've done!
07-05-03, 09:04 AM
#4
Rotary Freak
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so technically, can I bend the rear line to go to the proportioning valve? I really don't have access to a hoist, and I don't want to pay to have this done when i can do it myself 
Furthermore, what did you do with the electronics?
Furthermore, what did you do with the electronics?
07-05-03, 11:01 AM
#5
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Fingers,
I did this whole proceedure in my driveway on jackstands. I suggest getting it as high off the ground as you can so it's easier to thread the long rear line in. My car was approximatly 2 1/2 feet off the ground IIRC.
As for bending the rear line, it's not quite that easy. You will have to cut it short first as it connects between the pump and the rear axel first. Then you will need to put a new fitting on at the cut. Finally you will need to bend it into shape. If you have the right tools you can certainly do this. You should be able to find links on this site that give detailed instructions on this mod as it's the way most people make the change-over.
The elctronics unplug very nicely. The ABS harness will disconnect from the factory harness (two plugs) and snakes out into the passenger compartment. The ABS computer is mounted next to the engine computer and it unbolts with four 10mm nuts. The ABS pump bracket is held on to the body with about 50 (j/k) 12 or 14mm bolts and comes out in several pieces. All of it sits in my garage in a box now!
The good news is now I have a 2" hole to pass all kinds of goodies from the passenger compartment into the engine bay. I can also hear the turbo spool a little better. Water has yet to enter the passenger's footwell, but I live in sunny CA so perhaps I'm just lucky on that part...
I did this whole proceedure in my driveway on jackstands. I suggest getting it as high off the ground as you can so it's easier to thread the long rear line in. My car was approximatly 2 1/2 feet off the ground IIRC.
As for bending the rear line, it's not quite that easy. You will have to cut it short first as it connects between the pump and the rear axel first. Then you will need to put a new fitting on at the cut. Finally you will need to bend it into shape. If you have the right tools you can certainly do this. You should be able to find links on this site that give detailed instructions on this mod as it's the way most people make the change-over.
The elctronics unplug very nicely. The ABS harness will disconnect from the factory harness (two plugs) and snakes out into the passenger compartment. The ABS computer is mounted next to the engine computer and it unbolts with four 10mm nuts. The ABS pump bracket is held on to the body with about 50 (j/k) 12 or 14mm bolts and comes out in several pieces. All of it sits in my garage in a box now!
The good news is now I have a 2" hole to pass all kinds of goodies from the passenger compartment into the engine bay. I can also hear the turbo spool a little better. Water has yet to enter the passenger's footwell, but I live in sunny CA so perhaps I'm just lucky on that part...
11-30-03, 03:31 PM
#6
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inboost,
do you still have a problem with the rear end wanting to come around under hard braking? i've read that the proportioning valve on NON abs cars are different to ABS equiped cars.
do you still have a problem with the rear end wanting to come around under hard braking? i've read that the proportioning valve on NON abs cars are different to ABS equiped cars.
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11-30-03, 06:39 PM
#8
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As a quick re-cap: I used my original turbo master cylinder and proportioning valve along with stock non-ABS lines. I had to bend one pre-fabricated line and supply a double banjo bolt to make this work. It's a great set-up and I have no issues with it.
Now on to the question:
The rear end will definately come around on you if you lock the rears up, and when you get on the binders hard enough this will indeed happen. This is due to the weight transfer to the front of the car making the rear-end lighter. This in turn allows the rear brakes to lock more easily because there is less motive force trying to turn the wheel against the braking action.
I do't think a NA system would behave any differently (At least on an S5 car). I will also re-state that the non-ABS proportioning valve and the turbo unit have the same part number in 1989 so I feel pretty comfortable in saying there would be no benefit in changing it out.
Now on to the question:
The rear end will definately come around on you if you lock the rears up, and when you get on the binders hard enough this will indeed happen. This is due to the weight transfer to the front of the car making the rear-end lighter. This in turn allows the rear brakes to lock more easily because there is less motive force trying to turn the wheel against the braking action.
I do't think a NA system would behave any differently (At least on an S5 car). I will also re-state that the non-ABS proportioning valve and the turbo unit have the same part number in 1989 so I feel pretty comfortable in saying there would be no benefit in changing it out.
12-18-03, 04:47 PM
#11
pei > caek
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Originally posted by Cameljoe
Or you can buy the ABS bypass kit from Mazdatrix for around $35.
Or you can buy the ABS bypass kit from Mazdatrix for around $35.
Edit: Its not on their website, you have to call.
12-18-03, 05:14 PM
#12
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12-18-03, 06:16 PM
#13
Originally posted by dr0x
That thing is a joke and looks like ****. For a clean install go buy a tool to properly bend and flare brake lines. They are like 10-15 bucks.
Edit: Its not on their website, you have to call.
That thing is a joke and looks like ****. For a clean install go buy a tool to properly bend and flare brake lines. They are like 10-15 bucks.
Edit: Its not on their website, you have to call.
Ok so to you it looks horrible but does it do the job? If it does I don't really care how it looks. It is something under the hood. I love people looking at my car not my engine bay.
If anyone has a pic of that kit from MT post up some pictures of it.
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