I removed the vacuum spider and emissions, installed block off plates and gaskets, ran new vacuum and fuel lines, capped off many vac nipples, and even rewired some grounds. Then I checked and rechecked everything before giving her a first crank. The only thing I did NOT do was remove all the extra crap off the throttle body. I did, however, cap every nipple.

So...

She starts right up, but then immediately dies. Immediately.
For example, with a big vac leak or the AFM disconnected, you can still bounce the throttle a bit to keep the car alive...not this time, she just outright dies...sounds pretty bad too...

Am I overlooking something? Anyone else done this before?

 

Okay, I've checked a number of websites and have found conflicting info. The back of my UIM has 3 nipples. The largest nipple is in the center and is hooked up to the oil injector vac bus. The other two have been capped off.

I do NOT have a nipple (or vac line of course) for the secondary injectors atomization. Is the vac line for the primaries the nipple that is located in between two of the oil injectors? Rotary Resurrection shows that this nipple should be capped off. Should I run that nipple to the small top nipple on the back of the UIM?

According to this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...VACUUM+DIAGRAM
NZConvertible states that the bottom nipple of the 3 nipples should be run to the dual-throttle system? Ah crap...never heard of that...Rotary Resurrection doesn't list that either!

None of these things, however, seem like they should keep my car from running.

 

I mentioned that I hadn't modified the throttle body. I haven't, but I have capped off everything. With the dual throttle capped off and thermo capped off the car should still run, right? Geeze...I'm running outta ideas here.

Damn...HAILERS(2) must be at work or something...

 

1) You need to pressure test for air/boost/vacuum leaks. Search, that has been covered. Make sure you have no leaks before continuing in your troubleshooting efforts.

2) The secondary injector air bleeds are only on s5's to my knowledge. I have mine hooked up to the middle nipple on the front of my S5 T2 UIM. This nipple is a fresh air source according to my interpretation of the FSM diagrams, as it is used to recirculate blowby gases from the PCV system.

3) the primary injector air bleeds are located between the two oil injectors on the primary runners. You can cap them off I suppose, but they are designed to improve fuel economy at idle and low load. In another thread (maybe in 3rd gen forum?) I have posted a page off the GSL-SE service highlights document which explains this. If you have three nipples on the back of your UIM, they would be hooked to the top nipple.

4) the middle nipple is for the oil injector spider

5) the bottom nipple is a vacuum source from the plenum area. From the factory, it is used for the double throttle system. This is mostly to prevent idiots who go WOT on a cold engine from damaging anything. You can use it as a pressure source for a boost gauge, MAP sensor, boost controller, blowoff, etc. Or cap it.

 

Thank you for the good info! It confirms my current setup is okay, but I've still to solve my new problem...Thanks for the reply!

 

Capping off the primary air bleed is screwy. I've no idea why anybody would do that.

When you eliminated the spider to the oil injectors.......you removed part of the idle air supply. Might have to turn up the BAC some to make up for that.

A RX starting and dieing right away sounds more like the elect plug off the afm.

I assume you capped off any nipple on the rear of the throttle body that isn't being used. Is the brake booster feed line connected up. On a series four it's feed nipple is a inch to the right of the row of small nipples you mentioned above.

The plug off the water thermo sensor will make for difficult starts when the engine is cold. Green two wire plug on the back of the water pump housing.

On the back of the turbo inlet duct I've left the BOV and checkvalve out before and had a similar problem. Make sure they are installed in the back side of the turbo inlet duct.

Leaving the air hose off the BAC is a problem. Connects the BAC to the turbo discharge duct. If left open causes massive air leak.

Lots of stuff can happen. Like are you sure the TID is still clamped on the turbo?

 

There will be no adjusting of the BAC, because I removed it and covered the hole with a blockoff plate. Removed the spider, BAC, EGR, ACV, split air, and ..uh...the one by the primary rail on the LIM.

I'm still waiting for a UIM gasket in the mail, then I'll do a pressure test and see if I have any major leaks anywhere.

The afm is plugged in, the TID is on there tight, and every unused nipple is covered.

The only problem I found so far was the brake booster was left undone; I had capped it off on the UIM...shouldn't cause this problem.

 

even if you give it throttle it won't idle?

 

Even though you removed all emissions, you should keep the BAC. It does more good to keep it than to remove it as it will help steady your idle under engine loads due to P/S, A/C, and electrical loads.

Make sure you keep the brake booster hooked up, you wouldn't want to drive around trying to stop the car without powered brakes.

There was another member not too long ago who removed emissions and had checked and double checked everything, as far as I knew it should of been running right. On one of his numerous removal of the UIM to recheck everything, he final found some left over gasket material that he didn't completely remove when installing new gaskets causing a vacuum leak.

Keep the dual throttle system hooked up since you have it there, reroute it as it is shown in the fsm. "T" in the oil injectors and primary and secondary fuel injector air bleeds, they both need fresh air from in front of the throttle plates, i believe you said the middle nipple on your turbo manifold does this.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'm not running a/c or p/s...should I keep the BAC anyway? Is it that necessary?

 

The BAC also compensates for the headlights, brake lights and heater blower motor...basically any large electrical draw.
So, keep it.

 

The BAC is back on. After all, for daily use it's more practical to have one than to look at a nice bare rotary intake manifold.

AND I found my problem. Actually, txFCturboII found it...it's too embarrassing: the stock (crappy) turbo inlet duct consists of two pieces between the turbo and AFM; they popped apart...

HAILERS was right again

 

hailers is usually right!

 

Thank you, thank you. It was nothing really, just a small miracle.....

you owe me beer.