I sent my injectors out to be cleaned at RC eng and i got them back and put my car back together and did the tb mod and removed the rats nest well it was apart and i put it all together today and now my car idles at 3k? did i miss a vac hose some place? thanks for any help and ideas, eric

 

87 na by the way

 

anyone?

 

have you tried tweaking the hard idle screw?? if the doesnt affect it . then you might have missed a cap or something in the emissions removal

 

yes check the idle screw like on RETeds website www.fc3spro.com. if not you have a major air leak. it may be on the intake side. gasket between LIM and UIM? injector O-ring leaking air?

anyone else?
TR

 

car runs better with rats nest.....

 

yeah i see that now thanks for the 2 cent slpin

 

BS. Unless you you hose up the job, the engine will run just as well without it as it does with it.

A high idle after removing the thermowax usually means you've done it wrong.

 

My car idled at 3k after rats nest removal / TB mod too. Turns out I hadn't plugged in the TPS >.>

 

It's possible that the grommets at the bottom of the fuel injectors did not get replaced with new soft ones and there is a air leak at the injectors themselves. It's also possible that it is any number of other things. Long list.

 

i did tb mod and rast nest removal and mine runs fine and has more response... you did use NEW intake gasketes and cap off all vacuum lines right? and you DID keep your BAC and AWS or whatever valves on the car irght?

 

low rpm pulsing? BAC valve to compensate for electricity load?
I believe a properly functioning emission system will make the car run better than a completely stripped setup?

 

i got it fixed guys now its time to get a new fuel pump b.c i lose power over 4k

 

i disagree, the first thing i do on all of the rx-7 i work on, is strip the rats nest. In my personal experience, it makes the car much more reliable, and a heck of a lot easier to work on/troubleshoot. that being said, you do have to readjust the idle after you remove the rast nest, but usually using the hard idle screw works fine.

 

I dont have the BAC enabled on my Haltech'd car and it idles like a rock.

 

As in the power steering? I notice my idle drops by about 500 (from 1500, have it set high due to a recent rebuild) then comes back up after a few seconds. I've also noticed my car bucks when I'm turning from a stand still.

 

The BAC valve has nothing to do with the emission controls so I don't know why you'd mention it. Removing them has no effect on idle control (unless you introduce a vac leak).

But you obviously have no idea why or you'd be telling us. Nearly all of the various systems treat the exhaust gas after it leaves the engine. They have no effect on how the engine actually runs.

The only reason you'd have need to readjust idle is if you either fixed or caused a vac leak. Other than that the rat's nest has no effect on idle speed. How would it?

 

when i had emission in 4 different setups

s5 t2, s5 na, and s4 na and s4 na

they seem to run better because of the following
it was smoother on throttle transition, it didnt do the "zoom zoom", and on high rpm release (i.e. hold rpm at 6k, and let off) it would drop to 700 immediately, rather than slightly lower than climb back up...

thats why i think a working emission system would help the car "run better" under those circumstances

 

You seem to be missing the point. I'm not exactly sure what you're removing, but if you only remove the systems that are actually there to reduce emissions (i.e not the BAC valve) then you will not see any changes in drivability.

If you think working emission controls help the car "run better", explain why.

 

what i was removing? the rats nest...

 

So tell me what on the rat's nest needs to be there to prevent what you described. I know exactly what all that stuff does, so I'm interested to hear your explanation.

Note that "this is what happened to me" doesn't count, because your experience doesn't match what most other people say.

 

this is on the ratsnest right
and it has an affect on idle, right?
04a-f1-58



and i was also talking about emission having effect on the rpm pulsing...
here is karack's take on it

 

I assume that random collection of numbers and letters is trying to say FSM page F1-58...

No, actually the FPR solenoid does not have much effect on idle speed (although the ECU will increase idle speed when the system is active) and it has nothing to do with the symptoms you described. It's only activated when the engine is started when very hot, and then only for 50 seconds.

So he mentions the BAC valve (NOT emissions) and the AWS valve, neither of which are related to the vac rack in any way. The pulsing idle problem has nothing to do with removing the rack as such, but can be caused by a vac leak from stuffing the job up or because of messed up TB settings.

Your not building much of a case here.

 

if you do the rats net removal properly you need to remove the thermowax from the throttle body, this changes the idle some times.

 

Great, just what this thread needs, more BS...

The rats nest and the TB are completely unrelated. There is absolutely no need to do anything to the TB when removing the rats nest unless you want to.