removed rats nest and did tb mod messed up idle
#26
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Great, just what this thread needs, more BS...
The rats nest and the TB are completely unrelated. There is absolutely no need to do anything to the TB when removing the rats nest unless you want to.
The rats nest and the TB are completely unrelated. There is absolutely no need to do anything to the TB when removing the rats nest unless you want to.
Last edited by need-a-t2; 01-23-06 at 02:00 PM.
#27
I break Diff mounts
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The hotstart system has NOTHING to do with emissions.
It's used for exactly what it's called HOT START. It changes the FPR reference to make a static fuel rate to help with hot starts.
The TB mod is done for two reasons. Removing the secondary butterfly to help air flow and then to remove the bastard thermowax and the coolant lines.
BTW to the orignal question. I just did th TB mod to an extra TB I had. I was going through Reted's site when he did mention that if you skipped the little spring part on it that it would cause the throttle to stick or somehting very high. Did you do EVERY step?
As for Vac leaks. There are only a couple places they could occur.
You did not seal the secondary butterfly holes suffiencently causing a leak or you have a crack TB vac line or if you removed the LIM you caused a leak there. OR the plastic mid plate has a crack or leak there.
Here is my test for Vac leaks.
If you have an aftrermarket filter you most liekly have the cone adapter(if your S4). GO to home depot and get a rubber pipe plug(I think 3 or 2inches).
This will cap off the system.
Then use an air compressor and use a valve and unplug a vac hose and put the compressed air through it.
Pressurize it to around 5psi more can pop stuff off. Then listen for hissing.
It's used for exactly what it's called HOT START. It changes the FPR reference to make a static fuel rate to help with hot starts.
The TB mod is done for two reasons. Removing the secondary butterfly to help air flow and then to remove the bastard thermowax and the coolant lines.
BTW to the orignal question. I just did th TB mod to an extra TB I had. I was going through Reted's site when he did mention that if you skipped the little spring part on it that it would cause the throttle to stick or somehting very high. Did you do EVERY step?
As for Vac leaks. There are only a couple places they could occur.
You did not seal the secondary butterfly holes suffiencently causing a leak or you have a crack TB vac line or if you removed the LIM you caused a leak there. OR the plastic mid plate has a crack or leak there.
Here is my test for Vac leaks.
If you have an aftrermarket filter you most liekly have the cone adapter(if your S4). GO to home depot and get a rubber pipe plug(I think 3 or 2inches).
This will cap off the system.
Then use an air compressor and use a valve and unplug a vac hose and put the compressed air through it.
Pressurize it to around 5psi more can pop stuff off. Then listen for hissing.
#28
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Originally Posted by Digi7ech
The hotstart system has NOTHING to do with emissions.
It's used for exactly what it's called HOT START. It changes the FPR reference to make a static fuel rate to help with hot starts.
The TB mod is done for two reasons. Removing the secondary butterfly to help air flow and then to remove the bastard thermowax and the coolant lines.
It's used for exactly what it's called HOT START. It changes the FPR reference to make a static fuel rate to help with hot starts.
The TB mod is done for two reasons. Removing the secondary butterfly to help air flow and then to remove the bastard thermowax and the coolant lines.
#29
I break Diff mounts
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Not really.
The Cold start is to help the car idle on a cold start. The thermowax changes the open position of the throttle plates. I have to hold my throttle for a few seconds on a cold mornign to prevent the engine from conking out.
This again doesn't deal with emissions.
The only parts for emissions on our cars are.
ACV
EGR
majority of Solenoid rack
Precats
Cat
Air pump
oh yeah and as mentioned below PCV
The Cold start is to help the car idle on a cold start. The thermowax changes the open position of the throttle plates. I have to hold my throttle for a few seconds on a cold mornign to prevent the engine from conking out.
This again doesn't deal with emissions.
The only parts for emissions on our cars are.
ACV
EGR
majority of Solenoid rack
Precats
Cat
Air pump
oh yeah and as mentioned below PCV
Last edited by Digi7ech; 01-23-06 at 03:17 PM.
#30
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Originally Posted by slpin
low rpm pulsing? BAC valve to compensate for electricity load?
I believe a properly functioning emission system will make the car run better than a completely stripped setup?
I believe a properly functioning emission system will make the car run better than a completely stripped setup?
#31
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Originally Posted by Digi7ech
Not really.
The Cold start is to help the car idle on a cold start. The thermowax changes the open position of the throttle plates. I have to hold my throttle for a few seconds on a cold mornign to prevent the engine from conking out.
This again doesn't deal with emissions.
The only parts for emissions on our cars are.
ACV
EGR
majority of Solenoid rack
Precats
Cat
Air pump
The Cold start is to help the car idle on a cold start. The thermowax changes the open position of the throttle plates. I have to hold my throttle for a few seconds on a cold mornign to prevent the engine from conking out.
This again doesn't deal with emissions.
The only parts for emissions on our cars are.
ACV
EGR
majority of Solenoid rack
Precats
Cat
Air pump
#33
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By running the engine at a faster speed. That's the main reason for the 3K startup. So yes, in a way the ASV/BAC have to do with emissions but that is only the primary purpose of the ASV, not the BAC. Also neither one of which are part of the rats nest.
#34
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Originally Posted by need-a-t2
I think that if your going to do it correctly, you should take ALL the emissions components off the motor and manifolds (and even remove the cat if possible). that would include the hot start sytem on the TB, which includes the thermowax...
... sorry, i mis-typed. the thermowax is for the cold start which has everything to do with emissions.
... sorry, i mis-typed. the thermowax is for the cold start which has everything to do with emissions.
it also preheats the cataletic converters, so it does have to do with emissions.
Contrary to popular belief, "emissions removal" does not mean stripping everything off the engine not essential to make the engine run. Every part should be evaluated separately and its usefulness considered before removal. I've removed all of my emission controls and the TB's double throttle system because I considered these items unnecessary or redundant, but I've kept the thermowax, BAC valve and twin-scroll system because I consider these items useful and beneficial. I see no need to remove them from my car because they make it run better. They're also nothing to do with emissions.
#35
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
The thermowax is there to raise the idle speed when the engine is cold, that's it. It's not "cold-start" (it doesn't aid in starting the engine) and it has nothing to do with emissions. It simply makes the engine idle properly when it's cold. Removing it makes the engine idle badly when it's cold. There is no advantage to not having one.
Does the coolant line run up to the cap looking thing on the left side of the manifold and then run back down to the tstat housing?
#36
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Excuse me, but this thread is a freakin headache.
I don't get why people argue about crap that has really nothing to do with each other.
Yes, I'd imagine so...If you did the TB mod, I believe you will probably have a lumpy idle on cold starts if not die on ya.
Yep...passes thru the TB and goes around to the waterpump housing...
I don't get why people argue about crap that has really nothing to do with each other.
Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
Please go into this a bit further, as I believe when we installed my supercharger we bypassed the thermowax...as it sits, when the engines warm I can get it to idle at 1k rpm just fine, but when it's cold it has to idle at about 1500 RPM not to die...is this because of the thermowax?
Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
Does the coolant line run up to the cap looking thing on the left side of the manifold and then run back down to the tstat housing?
Last edited by Funkspectrum; 01-24-06 at 12:35 AM.
#37
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Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
Please go into this a bit further, as I believe when we installed my supercharger we bypassed the thermowax...
...when the engines warm I can get it to idle at 1k rpm just fine, but when it's cold it has to idle at about 1500 RPM not to die...is this because of the thermowax?
Does the coolant line run up to the cap looking thing on the left side of the manifold and then run back down to the tstat housing?
#38
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You're technically supposed to have the idle set at 1500 RPM to 1800 RPM with the Camden Supercharger, I just like to push the limits.
When it's warm, I can idle at 1k RPM without a problem. When it's cold it has to idle at 1500 RPM or the idle will get too low and then die.
I have both the engine coolant spot on the back side of the block near the ground capped off and the back of the waterpump housing capped off.
SonicRAT is the one who messed with the emissions during the install, I've just been tweaking it past that.
When it's warm, I can idle at 1k RPM without a problem. When it's cold it has to idle at 1500 RPM or the idle will get too low and then die.
I have both the engine coolant spot on the back side of the block near the ground capped off and the back of the waterpump housing capped off.
SonicRAT is the one who messed with the emissions during the install, I've just been tweaking it past that.
#42
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Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
You're technically supposed to have the idle set at 1500 RPM to 1800 RPM with the Camden Supercharger, I just like to push the limits.
I have both the engine coolant spot on the back side of the block near the ground capped off and the back of the waterpump housing capped off.
#43
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You're not getting what I'm saying, I didn't remove the emissions stuff, SonicRAT did it all. I have no idea if it's still connected, it's 2:33 AM in the morning.
When my engine is COLD, it won't idle below 1500 RPM
When my engine is WARM, it'll idle at 1000 RPM.
My car idles this way because it's a BUG with the Camden Supercharger, you're barking up the wrong tree about the whole it shouldn't have to idle blahblah - I've heard they have heard and I'm working on sovling the issue being as I'm the only S5 with it on.
When my engine is COLD, it won't idle below 1500 RPM
When my engine is WARM, it'll idle at 1000 RPM.
My car idles this way because it's a BUG with the Camden Supercharger, you're barking up the wrong tree about the whole it shouldn't have to idle blahblah - I've heard they have heard and I'm working on sovling the issue being as I'm the only S5 with it on.
#44
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Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
You're not getting what I'm saying, I didn't remove the emissions stuff, SonicRAT did it all.
My car idles this way because it's a BUG with the Camden Supercharger, you're barking up the wrong tree about the whole it shouldn't have to idle blahblah...
#45
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
But why? Unless you have a huge BP or PP, there's no reason why the engine has to idle that high. There are dozens of OEM supercharged engines and probably even more aftermarket kits, and none of them have this problem.
#46
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
It kills the progressive throttle design
#47
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Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
Nope, both sets of butterflys work on mine, you have to set the secondary up to a vacuum source.
#48
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The weird thing is I've been looking at other supercharger kits and they seem to do the same thing, ex the should have been SVO Thunderbird - had a flat manifold on top that is one huge runner I guess you could say.
#49
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Camden's kit seems to be very poorly designed. It kills the progressive throttle design, and merges the the two primary ports together at the block with an odd oval shaped port in the manifold. Couple that with the extra drag caused by the blower as well as elimination of the BAC and you get the high idle.
Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
Nope, both sets of butterflys work on mine, you have to set the secondary up to a vacuum source.
The weird thing is I've been looking at other supercharger kits and they seem to do the same thing
So do you have the thermowax?
#50
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I think it's mainly the extra drag caused by the supercharger. SonicRat has experience with these kits where I don't have any first hand, so maybe he'll chime in with the rest.