2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Removed ACV, EGR, air pump, and split air....slight problem

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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 12:14 PM
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Removed ACV, EGR, air pump, and split air....slight problem

so i removed my ACV, EGR, split air, and air pump.

for the pressure sensor i put a barbed nipple in the ACV block off plate (if i remove vac hose from nipple while car is running, it is pumping air out of the nipple)

i removed the 3 metal hard lines, capped off all 4 hard lines near the trans/lower IM.

i took the car for a drive today, and around 4k rpm, in 2nd gear i get a hesitation, and the turbo is always building boost.

before the emission removal, it would stay in vacuum on the stock gauge until i gave enough throttle to build boost. now it is always at zero, and even when driving normal, it is boosting. when i push it hard, the stock boost gauge burys the needle past the stock boost gauge limit. i was afraid it was spiking, so i stopped after the first time seeing that.


my question is:

there is a restrictor pill in the pressure sensor vac hose going to the ACV block off plate....is that the correct hose for the pill? i have it right infront of the end of the nipple, inside the hose (the small hole is facing the opening in the nipple)

also, i added a ground from the firewall, to the upper intake manifold bolt....could that be causing a problem?

also installed a new battery, and a new fuel filter while removing emission's.

the car is an 87TII with 45k miles, everything worked 100% how it should before this.
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 12:43 PM
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There's a nipple just for the pressure sensor, you should of nipple on the acv block of plate...

For the hesitation problem are you sure you fully connected the grounds to the block? (Under the tb) I could come check it out if you can't get it running right. What part of Illinois are you from?

And the restrictor pill is put into the pressure sensor line from the factory, so if your using the same line you'll be fine.
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 01:18 PM
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I threaded a barbed fitting into the acv blockoff plate. The pressure sensor is hooked up to that fitting, with new hose, and the factory pill in the factory location. I didn't take off the upper manifold, and I never touched any grounds. I added my own ground from the firewall to the upper manifold.

I just finished doing some tests, I removed the ground i installed and nothing changed. I tried the factory vac hose for the pressure sensor, and no change. I just finished replacing the FPR vac line, the wastegate vac line, and the BOV vac line. No change.

The car idles fine, but at idle the factory boost gauge is at 0,instead of -20mmHG like it normally was before I did anything.

I'm in lake villa il, 60046

I'll buy lunch if you want to give me a hand figuring this out.
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 02:16 PM
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sounds like your barb thing leaks...
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 03:01 PM
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Well see, just pulled the plate off, re did the thread tape on the barb fitting threads, put a new gasket on, with some high heat RTV.

Also ground the barb fitting down while threaded into the blockoff plate to merge the metals together as best as possible.

Hope this works.
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 03:03 PM
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I'm not sure how the factory boost gauge is hooked up, but maybe the vacuum line for it is just disconnected. Or just figure out how the boost gauge hooks up from the factory.

Are you sure the injector clips are all the way on?
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 03:08 PM
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I didn't touch the injectors. Never had the upper IM off. I'm starting to think the factory boost gauge is part of the problem.

What about the 4-5k rpm hesitation?
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 03:54 PM
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your best option is to finish what you started and get rid of the rats nest. then run your pressure sensor line (with the pill in it) to the bottom nipple on the throttlebody facing the alternator.
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 04:49 PM
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That may be what it comes down to. Allready have an
oem manifold gasket, vac lines, and high heat nipples.
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 04:56 PM
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The only thing I haven't pulled off and resealed is the egr blockoff. After that, I'm out of ideas. Just added 2 new 6AWG grounds in the engine bay, and all new spark plugs. Engine idles awesome now, just can't get it to idle in vacuum, gauge is always at 0, and any throttle at all is positive pressure (says the boost gauge)
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 06:18 PM
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so before i removed the EGR plate to put on a new gasket, and reseal it. I decided to see what would happen if i hooked up the boost sensor to a different vacuum source. So i "T" it into the BOV vac line, started the car, and perfect...the vacuum needle rests at the bottom of the vac/boost gauge, and when giving throttle in neutral, vacuum goes to "0" vac at most, took the car for a drive, and 30mmHG!

my car is perfect again!


turns out i'm an idiot, and drilled, and tapped the nipple on the ACV in the wrong spot. i used the large circle port, instead of the small one above it.

gonna make another ACV block off this week and keep it untapped. once i kill the rats nest under my manifold, ill use a factory nipple for the boost sensor.


thanks for all the help everyone, sorry i'm retarded.
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 08:37 PM
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Yes. You can install as many as three vacuum nipples on a ACV blockoff plate...........but they have to be located in the right places. One place would be opposite where the stock nipple was. The other two are opposite where the Anti Afterburn valve(internal to the ACV itself) got it's vacuum and where it sent the airpump air into the primary runner when it operated during deceleration.

I always reinstall the stock spoked checkvalve even when not using the ACV itself. Gotta make allowances for by making a notch opposite the spoked checkvalves center. A notch in the blockoff plate is what I mean. Just a dimple to clear the center of the spoked checkvalve.
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