Remove vac spider now NO GO
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Somewhere
Remove vac spider now NO GO
I took all the spider and vac lines out last night. I got it all together and it wont run. i can keep it running by pressing the gas, but it wont rev past 4 grand. I followed this guys diagram to the T. But there are two differences. in his diagram the top nipple on the back of the throttlebody goes to what? mine is conected onto something that is mounted on the throttlebody. and second i keeped my twinscroll solenoid. my car is an 87t2 Im dont know if this diagram is for my car. The diagram im refering to is here
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=216587
Where do i hook up the nipple thats between the primary injectors. I did as the diagram says but ive heard people say just cap it. what does it do?
Second the angled nipple right below the cold start thing. where does that go? someone said it goes to the FPR. I have it on the UIM like the diagram. IS this right.
I have a feeling that one of these is my problem.
PLEASE HELP!
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=216587
Where do i hook up the nipple thats between the primary injectors. I did as the diagram says but ive heard people say just cap it. what does it do?
Second the angled nipple right below the cold start thing. where does that go? someone said it goes to the FPR. I have it on the UIM like the diagram. IS this right.
I have a feeling that one of these is my problem.
PLEASE HELP!
The nipple between the primary injectors is for the air bleeds, I believe most of us have that capped off.
The nipple on the LIM that points towars the firewall at a 45' angle should go to your FPR.
Maybe you didn't seat one of your injector plugs very well when you installed everything.
The nipple on the LIM that points towars the firewall at a 45' angle should go to your FPR.
Maybe you didn't seat one of your injector plugs very well when you installed everything.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Somewhere
Ok i moved the frp vac hose to that nipple, and it does idle. now i just hit a brick wall when driving a 4 grand. Is my fuil cutting off or is it something else. my car is not heavely moded. just intake and eliminated the main cat. Ive also blocked off all the emissions. also could my twin scroll be the problem.
Pull the injector plugs off the secondary injectors and look into them. You should see both metal connectors in each plug. Those little clips like to back themselves into the plug and not make a connection.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Somewhere
I didnt remove or unplug the injectors. What about the nipple between the primarys that everyone says to cap. I did unbult the fuel rail to get to that one. what should i do with that nipple. Also that 4 way vac thing for the oil. is that a big oneway valve, because i broke it and just used the Y vac connectors. Oh and by the way is the twinscroll solenoid plug green(just to double check.
Last edited by Sammytom; Aug 26, 2003 at 01:18 AM.
Trending Topics
Why would you cap the air bleeds to the injectors? They're there to improve fuel atomisation, and should be there with the vac spider removed or not. Refer to the vac diagram in the FSM for the correct way to connect them.
This won't be the cause of the problem though. If you can't rev past 4000rpm (probably 3800rpm) then the secondary injectors are the #1 suspect. Check to see if you didn't accidently dislodge one of their plugs.
The plastic 4-way splitter (it's not a one-way valve) for the oil injectors will have to be replaced.
The twin-scroll plug is green.
This won't be the cause of the problem though. If you can't rev past 4000rpm (probably 3800rpm) then the secondary injectors are the #1 suspect. Check to see if you didn't accidently dislodge one of their plugs.
The plastic 4-way splitter (it's not a one-way valve) for the oil injectors will have to be replaced.
The twin-scroll plug is green.
Originally posted by NZConvertible
Why would you cap the air bleeds to the injectors? They're there to improve fuel atomisation, and should be there with the vac spider removed or not. Refer to the vac diagram in the FSM for the correct way to connect them.
This won't be the cause of the problem though. If you can't rev past 4000rpm (probably 3800rpm) then the secondary injectors are the #1 suspect. Check to see if you didn't accidently dislodge one of their plugs.
The plastic 4-way splitter (it's not a one-way valve) for the oil injectors will have to be replaced.
The twin-scroll plug is green.
Why would you cap the air bleeds to the injectors? They're there to improve fuel atomisation, and should be there with the vac spider removed or not. Refer to the vac diagram in the FSM for the correct way to connect them.
This won't be the cause of the problem though. If you can't rev past 4000rpm (probably 3800rpm) then the secondary injectors are the #1 suspect. Check to see if you didn't accidently dislodge one of their plugs.
The plastic 4-way splitter (it's not a one-way valve) for the oil injectors will have to be replaced.
The twin-scroll plug is green.
People should *study* the vacuum diagram before they start pulling vacuum lines out and wonder "Where the heck does this go???"
It's very simple to understand. When you pull out the solenoids, you should have just one which is the twin scroll. The FPR hooks up to the lower intake where there is a nipple (vacuum) facing the firewall. The nipple bewteen the primaries goes to any top 3(no vacuum)on the back. All front 3 will be capped. S5 has 2 bleeds for fuel injectors.
You should re-check the fuel injector connectors. The wires are very easily pulled out of the connectors and the connectors themselves are old and brittle and it could've cracked and come off of it's injectors.
I had a wire come off the connector for the water thermo sensor and I was chasing tails with that problem. The wires when pushed in should "click".
If they're old and cracked, buy a new set. They're really cheap.
Originally posted by Sammytom
I didnt remove or unplug the injectors. What about the nipple between the primarys that everyone says to cap. I did unbult the fuel rail to get to that one. what should i do with that nipple. Also that 4 way vac thing for the oil. is that a big oneway valve, because i broke it and just used the Y vac connectors. Oh and by the way is the twinscroll solenoid plug green(just to double check.
I didnt remove or unplug the injectors. What about the nipple between the primarys that everyone says to cap. I did unbult the fuel rail to get to that one. what should i do with that nipple. Also that 4 way vac thing for the oil. is that a big oneway valve, because i broke it and just used the Y vac connectors. Oh and by the way is the twinscroll solenoid plug green(just to double check.
Check for fuel leaks as well before installing the UIM.
There's a yellow connector on the passenger shock tower near the wiring harness. Turn the ignition to "on" position and look for leaks. We don't want you to have a fuel leak
Originally posted by boosted1205
People should *study* the vacuum diagram before they start pulling vacuum lines out and wonder "Where the heck does this go???"
People should *study* the vacuum diagram before they start pulling vacuum lines out and wonder "Where the heck does this go???"
Like the man said. IF you can drive the car using moderate throttle application, and the car/engine will pull to over six grand, then you have a secondary fuel injector problem. IF your engine will not pull over four grand using light throttle application.....it's another thing.
Originally posted by NZConvertible
Why would you cap the air bleeds to the injectors? They're there to improve fuel atomisation, and should be there with the vac spider removed or not. Refer to the vac diagram in the FSM for the correct way to connect them.
Why would you cap the air bleeds to the injectors? They're there to improve fuel atomisation, and should be there with the vac spider removed or not. Refer to the vac diagram in the FSM for the correct way to connect them.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Somewhere
ive studyed the vac diagram and the one thats floating around this forum. boosted1205 when you said that all three nipples on the front of the uim where capped, what about the twinscroll solenoid? What does that bottom vac line on the back of the uim do. its hooked up to a check valve and then to something mounted on the uim. so I did have to unplug it,to replace the vac lines, if that check valve is backward could that cause a prob. Yes I used all silicone hoses and i put a new check valve on the twinscroll. If the check valve is in backwards would that cause the problem. Which i now i didnt put in backwards. But ill check again if thats the posable problem. Ill be right back. Im going to go drive the car to test to see if can slowly get it over 4 grand. Thanks for all the help.
P.S. I did alot of searching before i did this and i like dcfc3s writeup on it but he didnt talk about the twinscroll.
P.S. I did alot of searching before i did this and i like dcfc3s writeup on it but he didnt talk about the twinscroll.
Last edited by Sammytom; Aug 26, 2003 at 09:59 AM.
Then you definitely have a secondary fuel delivery issue. The car can redline using the primary injectors only with very little or no load.
Again, check your injector plugs...even if you didn't remove them, pushing your fuel rail around while you were pulling stuff out of there might have dislodged one of the contacts inside the plug.
Again, check your injector plugs...even if you didn't remove them, pushing your fuel rail around while you were pulling stuff out of there might have dislodged one of the contacts inside the plug.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
alexdimen
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
20
Oct 23, 2015 01:50 PM
Steelwheelz
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
6
Sep 15, 2015 03:22 PM



