I'm trying to remove the hub carrier so I can replace the dtss bushings. Is it really necessary to remove the brake rotor, or can I leave it on?

I'm following the mazdatrix instructions, (http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/rrsteer.htm) but they seem to skip something. One step says to remove the pads and caliper mounting bracket, then the very next step talks about removing the dust shield.

I tried using a screwdriver, but it's not working. I'm afraid I'm just going to mess up the screw.

 

Yes,you would be Wise to take the whole spindle assembly off anyways.
the BIG reason is you are putting in aftermarket DTSS bushings which entail taking the Sleeve or whatever you want to call it that holds it in,It is like a bearing Race,and is a Total Snot-bag to get out/off.You may want a Shop with a Press to take it out,Or what I did is use a Ball joint press,and alot of Spacers(rigged up ****).
You can't get a clear shot at the 21mm bolt anyways with the rotor On.I had to bend the shield a bit to get at the bolt head.,Use a GOOD impact,or a 3 foot breaker.An Electric Impact is Not really a good choice,I found that out,,it sits there and Hummms!!

 

Yeah, I looked at it and you are right.

However, I've given up until I can get help from someone locally. I can't loosen the rotor screws or the axle nut, one of the caliper mounting bolts is very very stuck (broke a socket), and I don't even have a socket to fit on the dtss bolt.


I'm not really thinking about how to remove the bushing yet. I think I can use a puller to get the bushing out, like I did with the front control arm bushings. But first I have to get the rear apart.

 

I calmed down and tried again, and gave up on the rotors again. However, I got the axle nuts off and the dtss bolt out and used a puller to get part of the bushing out, but the outer metal sleeve is stuck until I find something big enough to fit.

One question: how do I get the top hub mount off (see pic)? The metal sleeve thing on the hub sticks in so it won't clear the mount on the arm. I guess it's not necessary, but this would be much easier if I could get the hub carrier off.

 

use an impact driver to free the screws on the rotors. heat them up or spray them with pb blaster first would help too.

 

+1

I really dont see why so many people have problems with the screws, just pick up a Impact Screwdriver from your local auto parts store for around $25 bucks and get a exttra set of hands if needed(to help turn while your hold and hit with a hammer). I took both the rear rotors off in less then 30 min with the screws in them.
For the people who dont know what im talking about here is a pic.


Now I did twist the Phillips head screw attachmet about 45 deg to the left from where I was hitting/turning so hard but they did come out.

 

I borrowed one of those, but it didn't seem to work. I wasn't quite sure how to use it. I put it on the screw and hit it. Maybe I didn't hit it hard enough. It seems like the handle part just goes in and out instead of turning.

 

turn to the left until it stops, whack it with hammer. Opposite is to tighten

 

Yea they one I have works by pushing in and then turning to the left. After its as far left as you can go keep turning and just whack the hell out of it with your hammer. After a good few hits it should break free and able to turn like a normal screw driver.

 

I broke one of my hubs trying to press out the old bushings, so i used a socket and hammer, seemed to work better for me, but use care either way.

Also can you get a 21mm wrench on the lower bolt?
If you can get the bolt out, I don't see why you wouldn't be able keep the rotor on the whole time...

 

The last rotor I took off this last weekend was extremely stubborn. I used the impact driver and a 3lb mini-sledge while holding the impact with a pair of channel locks and absolutely knocked the holy hell out of it. They finally broke free. I also had to use a rubber mallet to get the rotor loose. Also on your sleeve issue, when you get all three bolts undone you will be able to maneuver the hub in a way that will allow it to come off. Takes some finagling but it will come free. I'm in the process of rebuilding and painting my rear sub frame, so I feel your pain...good luck and be realllllllllllllllllllly patient.

 

On the TOP bolt of the Carrier assembly there is a little Sleeve on that Bolt,along with a Small white plastic DISC that prevents the Hub assembly(whatever) from Freely Coming off.
What you do is get a flat head screw driver and where The NUT Was(where the threaded part of the 17 mm bolt goes through the assembly) put the screwdriver inbetween that and the "holder"..(that inch and a half Solid Sleeve like Pice that the Bolt Slips through,To go from one side of the assembly to the other..).
What will happen is it moves the little compression sleeve back enough so that the assembly will come loose,and you can Then pull it off.

 

you must hit the impact screw driver with a man's hammer, swing it and hit it like you mean it, not like you are hitting your pecker

that being said I paid someone else to put those in my car, I read those instructions and said no thanks, did not pay alot either and he did the alighment when he was done.

 

I grabbed a nice Drill, Good drill bit and in about 2 minutes those screws were taken care of...

Had to beat the rotors off with a 12 lb sledge hammer. All came off after a dozen slams with the hammer except the drivers front, I litterally broke the rotor off of the center, then had to remove the hub with the center on and beat that off with another BFH. On top of a piece of wood so the studs didnt get F'd.

A couple hour job of installing D/S rotors, pads, and new calipers turned into a all day project... lol

 

now that Im thinking about it I had my brakes all apart a few years ago to paint everything, maybe thats why it was not that bad for him to take everything apart

 

 

Thanks for all the replies.

I got the hub carriers off (with rotors still attached), so now I can get the puller on easier. I got the rubber and inner metal parts out, so now I just need to find something the size of the outer sleeve so I can push it out. I'm thinking a 1" socket, maybe?

I think I may not worry about the trailing arm bushing (for now at least). I need to do some research on it, but I really don't feel like dropping the whole rear end, etc. just for a bushing.

 

you can always try a dremel and score the inside of the Sleeve to see if you can "weaken it" at some Points,and then Pop it out with a Chisel.
Cut about six slices from top to bottom,once you get Under ONE of the pieces,the rest will come out.
Ya,,the Trick was getting that Bushing out,( as I said I used a Ball joint installation tool and some "adapters' to get the Bushing out.and some of those adapters were sockets,stacked one on top of the other.
.another suggestion,take the assembly to a Place with a PRESS and have them Press it out.

 

DTSS successfully eliminated! I didn't even have to remove the rotors (I should have). I thought I was going to have to find someone with a press, but I was able to get them out with a puller and couple sockets. I'll post a pic or two tomorrow.

I don't ever want to replace any bushings ever again. Next time, I'm taking it to a shop.

 

here's the bolt that's stuck:

 

use a portable torch...when the metal expands and contracts hopefully it will let loose a little

 

So what size socket did you end up using? I'm going to have to pick up a puller and do what you did. Good job.

I have limited tools as well. I just took out my subframe (again.... By yourself it's not fun... But I have some tips if you want them.) Putting in delrin subframe + diff mounts, as well as a mazda competition front diff mount.

Anywho, I found that to get the hub carriers off I removed the brake rotors, then got at the bolts with a wrench + hit that with a 3 lb dead blow rubber mallet. The ones with sand/shot in them. BUT you need to make DAMN SURE that the wrench is on there every time you hit it!!!! If not then there goes your bolt. Then some wiggling got the sleeve pressed in so they would come off the control arm all the way.


PB blast the **** out of that bolt + use the wrench rubber mallet trick.

 

The big socket is 26mm, which is a perfect fit. A 1" socket should work as well. Inside that is I think a 21mm and inside of that is a screw so the press has something to push on and won't mess up the socket. (It will mess up the screw.) For the screw, a flat top like in the pic works well. If you use a press with a pointy tip, it helps to use a screw with a phillips or hex head to keep the press centered.

 

Nice. Thanks much!