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02-20-03, 07:31 PM
#1
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ill probly get flamed for this...BUT!!! i love my gxl, and for now i dont need any more horses..wat add ons, mods, drivin methods can i do to make to make this car last. keep in mind my boy got a 240x wit a sr20 in it and U BETTA BELIEVE I WANNA BUSS HIS ***... once a month atleast...
oh yeah... reliable,,,
wat can i do to keep this car on the road an runnin smoove
oh yeah... reliable,,,
wat can i do to keep this car on the road an runnin smoove
02-20-03, 07:49 PM
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i read things like........
1)the turbo runs mad on your engine
2) the **** stock exhaust ruins the engine
3)just puttin on a better exhaust busts your engine to
gimme some stories on what kills the engine..or some dam hope that this car wont blow up
I LOVE THE REDLINE
1)the turbo runs mad on your engine
2) the **** stock exhaust ruins the engine
3)just puttin on a better exhaust busts your engine to
gimme some stories on what kills the engine..or some dam hope that this car wont blow up
I LOVE THE REDLINE
02-20-03, 07:58 PM
#6
overheating and detonation, or pinging. exhaust is the most restrictive on all rotaries. 1st gen i know can see 20hp increase with a racing beat system. exhaust on turbos can literally kill them as the precats become clogged.
heat: overheating or very fast temp changes destroy a rotary. the motor is one big sandwich of different metals that all expand at different rates. warping will occur and then the side seals and/or water seals leak. result is a rebuild.
detonation, generally mostly found in turbo motors since the design on the rotary is detonation resistant, can break apex seals quickly. the apex seal is the seal at the tips of the rotor. it is considered the weak point of the engine and even slight detonation can kill it. general consensus is slightly rich=safe.
this post is brought to you by wild turkey and jagermeister. enjoy and read responsibly.
heat: overheating or very fast temp changes destroy a rotary. the motor is one big sandwich of different metals that all expand at different rates. warping will occur and then the side seals and/or water seals leak. result is a rebuild.
detonation, generally mostly found in turbo motors since the design on the rotary is detonation resistant, can break apex seals quickly. the apex seal is the seal at the tips of the rotor. it is considered the weak point of the engine and even slight detonation can kill it. general consensus is slightly rich=safe.
this post is brought to you by wild turkey and jagermeister. enjoy and read responsibly.
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02-20-03, 08:02 PM
#8
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Well let's see......smart one,
A free flowing exaust causes less pressure on the engine giving it more life. The turbo engine doesn't last as many miles/kilometers as an N/a IF trashed. I have a friend who has a 89 Turbo II with full exaust, fcd, and costom tid. His dad bought it when they first came out with what?? 0 miles on it. My car has around 145k along with his. And his drives great, pulls into boost perfect and idles just as well. The car has been driven like it should, high reving, regular oil changes, and turbo warm ups and cool downs. The turbo engine is a perfect piece of machanic marvel. I don't have one currently cause I am lazy and havn't rebuilt the one I own and I wouldn't be able to keep it up like I would want in college. So SHUT UP about **** you don't know and my 89 GXL can beat the turbo when it comes to a road course.
A free flowing exaust causes less pressure on the engine giving it more life. The turbo engine doesn't last as many miles/kilometers as an N/a IF trashed. I have a friend who has a 89 Turbo II with full exaust, fcd, and costom tid. His dad bought it when they first came out with what?? 0 miles on it. My car has around 145k along with his. And his drives great, pulls into boost perfect and idles just as well. The car has been driven like it should, high reving, regular oil changes, and turbo warm ups and cool downs. The turbo engine is a perfect piece of machanic marvel. I don't have one currently cause I am lazy and havn't rebuilt the one I own and I wouldn't be able to keep it up like I would want in college. So SHUT UP about **** you don't know and my 89 GXL can beat the turbo when it comes to a road course.
02-20-03, 08:03 PM
#9
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service it regularly, never rev it hard until warm, never EVER use synthetic oil in it (because by design, the 13b injects engine oil inside the combustion chambers and synthetic leaves the nastiest deposits). Check oil often, do not advance timing past stock setting, replace pulsation damper so the car won't catch fire, and basically maintain it to the best of your ability. Be vigilant of any weird noises or abnormal behavior it may show. Fix things right away when you find a leak, worn part, or improper setting.
02-20-03, 08:17 PM
#10
Originally posted by Gefunk
Well let's see......smart one,
A free flowing exaust causes less pressure on the engine giving it more life. The turbo engine doesn't last as many miles/kilometers as an N/a IF trashed. I have a friend who has a 89 Turbo II with full exaust, fcd, and costom tid. His dad bought it when they first came out with what?? 0 miles on it. My car has around 145k along with his. And his drives great, pulls into boost perfect and idles just as well. The car has been driven like it should, high reving, regular oil changes, and turbo warm ups and cool downs. The turbo engine is a perfect piece of machanic marvel. I don't have one currently cause I am lazy and havn't rebuilt the one I own and I wouldn't be able to keep it up like I would want in college. So SHUT UP about **** you don't know and my 89 GXL can beat the turbo when it comes to a road course.
Well let's see......smart one,
A free flowing exaust causes less pressure on the engine giving it more life. The turbo engine doesn't last as many miles/kilometers as an N/a IF trashed. I have a friend who has a 89 Turbo II with full exaust, fcd, and costom tid. His dad bought it when they first came out with what?? 0 miles on it. My car has around 145k along with his. And his drives great, pulls into boost perfect and idles just as well. The car has been driven like it should, high reving, regular oil changes, and turbo warm ups and cool downs. The turbo engine is a perfect piece of machanic marvel. I don't have one currently cause I am lazy and havn't rebuilt the one I own and I wouldn't be able to keep it up like I would want in college. So SHUT UP about **** you don't know and my 89 GXL can beat the turbo when it comes to a road course.
02-20-03, 09:18 PM
#12
Despise Enmity
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Find an owners manual and perform the 60K checkup every 30K.
Constantly check for vacuum leaks, change the oil every 2.5K with a good 10w30...
~85K the clutch is probably going out...change it...
~100K ditch the stock cats...use something different...
~120K the injectors will probably need to be removed and cleaned...
~135K the tranny will need a rebuild, remove it yourself and take to transmission rebuilder...
Basic maintence ala the FSM or common sense will yield a NA rotary that will last EASY 175,000 miles.
Constantly check for vacuum leaks, change the oil every 2.5K with a good 10w30...
~85K the clutch is probably going out...change it...
~100K ditch the stock cats...use something different...
~120K the injectors will probably need to be removed and cleaned...
~135K the tranny will need a rebuild, remove it yourself and take to transmission rebuilder...
Basic maintence ala the FSM or common sense will yield a NA rotary that will last EASY 175,000 miles.
02-21-03, 09:03 AM
#13
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but i bought the car wit 150k on it... paid like 5gz, its cert an emission ... if u dont got the money to invest, should u really buy this car??,,, especialy if i plan on drvin it in the winter. thanks to my 8 way adjstable shocks 
02-21-03, 10:52 AM
#14
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Originally posted by 24kinlo
but i bought the car wit 150k on it... paid like 5gz, its cert an emission ... if u dont got the money to invest, should u really buy this car??,,, especialy if i plan on drvin it in the winter. thanks to my 8 way adjstable shocks
but i bought the car wit 150k on it... paid like 5gz, its cert an emission ... if u dont got the money to invest, should u really buy this car??,,, especialy if i plan on drvin it in the winter. thanks to my 8 way adjstable shocks
XD and i thought dalnet users couldn't type worth a ****. I can barely understand you. Stop trying to act ghetto and type english
02-21-03, 11:42 AM
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Can i sell you my N/A with only 118K for like...ohhhhh maybe 6G???? it's only 118K! HEHE just playing...but paying 5Gs for a 150K t2??? I don't think it even worth that much....
02-21-03, 01:14 PM
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XD and i thought dalnet users couldn't type worth a ****. I can barely understand you. Stop trying to act ghetto and type english
___________________________________
in canada its like california, your car has to meet certain regulations, hence, emmission tests and certifications, dont know what else u dont understand.
and in canada its harder to find an rx in good shape, in the entire province theres 2 3rd gens listed for sale. and i 4 2nd gens plus, our dollar is like .6 of yours and we pay 15% tax ,, so i payed $2550 american for a car that was neva winter driven,(perfect body). an if u live in canada.. u know winter driving murders your car..
everything euro centric is not proper
bun out babylon
___________________________________
in canada its like california, your car has to meet certain regulations, hence, emmission tests and certifications, dont know what else u dont understand.
and in canada its harder to find an rx in good shape, in the entire province theres 2 3rd gens listed for sale. and i 4 2nd gens plus, our dollar is like .6 of yours and we pay 15% tax ,, so i payed $2550 american for a car that was neva winter driven,(perfect body). an if u live in canada.. u know winter driving murders your car..
everything euro centric is not proper
bun out babylon
02-21-03, 01:16 PM
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XD and i thought dalnet users couldn't type worth a ****. I can barely understand you. Stop trying to act ghetto and type english
___________________________________
in canada its like california, your car has to meet certain regulations, hence, emmission tests and certifications, I dont know what else you dont understand.
and in canada its harder to find an rx in good shape, in the entire province theres 2 3rd gens listed for sale. and 4 2nd gens, plus, our dollar is like .6 of yours and we pay 15% tax ,, so i payed $2550 american for a car that was neva winter driven,(perfect body). an if u live in canada.. u know winter driving murders your car..
everything euro centric is not proper
bun out babylon
___________________________________
in canada its like california, your car has to meet certain regulations, hence, emmission tests and certifications, I dont know what else you dont understand.
and in canada its harder to find an rx in good shape, in the entire province theres 2 3rd gens listed for sale. and 4 2nd gens, plus, our dollar is like .6 of yours and we pay 15% tax ,, so i payed $2550 american for a car that was neva winter driven,(perfect body). an if u live in canada.. u know winter driving murders your car..
everything euro centric is not proper
bun out babylon
