Relay Part #'s for FC Wiper Switch Repair/Rebuild?
#1
Relay Part #'s for FC Wiper Switch Repair/Rebuild?
Hey guys, my wiper switch is in need of a rebuild. I'm familiar with the DIY process for replacing all the relays on the wiper switch PC board, but I was looking to confirm the correct relay part #'s for the job before I order some. Can anyone confirm the following info I gathered on the web?
My specific application is for an FC coupe, S4 or S5 switch, with the rear wiper:
Omron relay, part # G5LE-14-DC12 (need 1)
Omron relay, part # G6C-2114P-US-DC12 (need 2 if you have the rear wiper, 1 if you don't)
Both of these relays look like they are readily available from multiple sources.
My specific application is for an FC coupe, S4 or S5 switch, with the rear wiper:
Omron relay, part # G5LE-14-DC12 (need 1)
Omron relay, part # G6C-2114P-US-DC12 (need 2 if you have the rear wiper, 1 if you don't)
Both of these relays look like they are readily available from multiple sources.
#3
While I hate de-soldering jobs, what I'm more worried about is breaking the unobtainium dash plastics when I R&R the wiper switch.
#5
You ain't kidding!
I had good luck getting the cluster out of the car, but I took the extra step of removing the steering wheel because I couldn't get it out otherwise, even with the tilt wheel all the way down. The **** show started when I got the cluster on the bench and had to remove the cruise & wiper switch from the cluster. Almost ALL of the screw mount posts for the switches were already cracked or broken. The screw posts for the headlight & turn signal switches weren't in much better shape. So now I'm doing some JB weld epoxy rebuilding of the screw posts. Good thing you can't see it when it's installed, cause it will probably be ugly - I'm molding new posts with the epoxy for the really trashed ones, using large plastic straws as a mold form, and re-drilling new screw holes. For the ones that are just cracked, or a small section snapped off, I'll glue the snapped piece back with super glue, and reinforce the entire post with the JB weld epoxy.
I had good luck getting the cluster out of the car, but I took the extra step of removing the steering wheel because I couldn't get it out otherwise, even with the tilt wheel all the way down. The **** show started when I got the cluster on the bench and had to remove the cruise & wiper switch from the cluster. Almost ALL of the screw mount posts for the switches were already cracked or broken. The screw posts for the headlight & turn signal switches weren't in much better shape. So now I'm doing some JB weld epoxy rebuilding of the screw posts. Good thing you can't see it when it's installed, cause it will probably be ugly - I'm molding new posts with the epoxy for the really trashed ones, using large plastic straws as a mold form, and re-drilling new screw holes. For the ones that are just cracked, or a small section snapped off, I'll glue the snapped piece back with super glue, and reinforce the entire post with the JB weld epoxy.
The following users liked this post:
j9fd3s (04-18-24)
#6
So here's the result of my plastic repairs on some of the screw posts for mounting the various cluster switches...
This is the post for the wiper switch. I super glued the cracked section piece back in, then using a thick plastic straw as a mold, reinforced the whole post with JB Weld epoxy
This is one of the posts for the cruise switches. Note the other plastic trim piece that fits over it - that piece caused me some trimming (and cussing) because the JB weld repair didn't take that into account initially.
This is the post for the wiper switch. I super glued the cracked section piece back in, then using a thick plastic straw as a mold, reinforced the whole post with JB Weld epoxy
This is one of the posts for the cruise switches. Note the other plastic trim piece that fits over it - that piece caused me some trimming (and cussing) because the JB weld repair didn't take that into account initially.
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#8
Senior Member
Here are some STL files I made a few years ago to do this kind of repair on my dash plastic. There are screw posts, which I ended up turning into studs with some allthread to hold the gauges in, as well as some bosses to jb weld on for attaching to the rest of the dash
https://grabcad.com/library/s5-rx7-g...-parts-1/files
you will likely have to fudge/adjust as needed, but they should strengthen the part quite a bit
https://grabcad.com/library/s5-rx7-g...-parts-1/files
you will likely have to fudge/adjust as needed, but they should strengthen the part quite a bit
The following 2 users liked this post by professionalpyroman:
driftxsequence (04-21-24),
Pete_89T2 (04-19-24)
#9
Well my new relays arrived yesterday, and I finally finished the wiper switch repair and got it all back together & working 100%. This job fought me the whole way, but I beat it into submission
Sorry I didn't take any other pictures, but here's a few of the snags I ran into and solutions I used that might help the next fool that attempts this job:
1. De-soldering the relays, tip #1: It helps A LOT to drill small holes in the plastic case so you can get a pick or tiny screwdriver under the relay to help lever them off the PC board while applying heat with the soldering iron to the stubborn pads. Even with a good soldering rig, and de-soldering suckers & braid, there is always SOME solder that refuses to loose its grip on the component.
2. De-soldering relays, tip #2: If you're as unlucky (or as unskilled) as I was removing these relays, one or more of the PC board traces/pads might lift off the circuit board from the component side of the board, trashing that connection. If that DOES happen, trace that PC board wiring trace to figure out what it connects to. I was lucky, the one pad I buggered up only went from one of the relays to another, with no other connections, so I simply soldered an insulated jumper wire between the two applicable relay terminals on the solder side of the board, when I soldered in the new relays.
3. Murphy's law for FC plastics - when disassembling something, things will never reassemble & go back/work EXACTLY the way they were before. With the repaired wiper switch installed in the cluster hood on the bench all of the switches functioned without binding. But when I first put the cluster assembly back in the car's dash, I found that the hazard flasher switch would bind up - push it in, it clicks & flashers come on; push on it again and it wouldn't pop back out all the way and shut off the flashers The final fix for this involved lightly sanding the circular opening for the hazard flasher switch in the cluster hood to gain a smidge more clearance to eliminate the binding.
Now I know why RockAuto charges about $800 for new FC wiper switches!
Sorry I didn't take any other pictures, but here's a few of the snags I ran into and solutions I used that might help the next fool that attempts this job:
1. De-soldering the relays, tip #1: It helps A LOT to drill small holes in the plastic case so you can get a pick or tiny screwdriver under the relay to help lever them off the PC board while applying heat with the soldering iron to the stubborn pads. Even with a good soldering rig, and de-soldering suckers & braid, there is always SOME solder that refuses to loose its grip on the component.
2. De-soldering relays, tip #2: If you're as unlucky (or as unskilled) as I was removing these relays, one or more of the PC board traces/pads might lift off the circuit board from the component side of the board, trashing that connection. If that DOES happen, trace that PC board wiring trace to figure out what it connects to. I was lucky, the one pad I buggered up only went from one of the relays to another, with no other connections, so I simply soldered an insulated jumper wire between the two applicable relay terminals on the solder side of the board, when I soldered in the new relays.
3. Murphy's law for FC plastics - when disassembling something, things will never reassemble & go back/work EXACTLY the way they were before. With the repaired wiper switch installed in the cluster hood on the bench all of the switches functioned without binding. But when I first put the cluster assembly back in the car's dash, I found that the hazard flasher switch would bind up - push it in, it clicks & flashers come on; push on it again and it wouldn't pop back out all the way and shut off the flashers The final fix for this involved lightly sanding the circular opening for the hazard flasher switch in the cluster hood to gain a smidge more clearance to eliminate the binding.
Now I know why RockAuto charges about $800 for new FC wiper switches!
#10
I have a problem,
My wiper switch was rebuilt by 13betc service few years ago and worked very well. I don't start the wiper for few years (no raining days for my convertible).
Yestarday i during a storm i noted that wipers works only on 1 speed no INT no II speed or mist no switch parking as if the relay is broken again but 13betc told me it was changed with the sealed one!
Also if i put the switch on "MIST" position i hear the relay "clicking" so i don't think it's the relay!
I have basic electronic knowledge, i can use soldering iron and multimeter! Can you tell me what to check on the board apart the relay? I already checked continuity spots of these 2 photos and all the bridges have 100% contiuity!
What else should i check?
Thank you
My wiper switch was rebuilt by 13betc service few years ago and worked very well. I don't start the wiper for few years (no raining days for my convertible).
Yestarday i during a storm i noted that wipers works only on 1 speed no INT no II speed or mist no switch parking as if the relay is broken again but 13betc told me it was changed with the sealed one!
Also if i put the switch on "MIST" position i hear the relay "clicking" so i don't think it's the relay!
I have basic electronic knowledge, i can use soldering iron and multimeter! Can you tell me what to check on the board apart the relay? I already checked continuity spots of these 2 photos and all the bridges have 100% contiuity!
What else should i check?
Thank you
Last edited by Venturer; 04-28-24 at 02:16 PM.
#11
I have a problem,
My wiper switch was rebuilt by 13betc service few years ago and worked very well. I don't start the wiper for few years (no raining days for my convertible).
Yestarday i during a storm i noted that wipers works only on 1 speed no INT no II speed or mist no switch parking as if the relay is broken again but 13betc told me it was changed with the sealed one!
Also if i put the switch on "MIST" position i hear the relay "clicking" so i don't think it's the relay!
I have basic electronic knowledge, i can use soldering iron and multimeter! Can you tell me what to check on the board apart the relay? I already checked continuity spots of these 2 photos and all the bridges have 100% contiuity!
What else should i check?
Thank you
My wiper switch was rebuilt by 13betc service few years ago and worked very well. I don't start the wiper for few years (no raining days for my convertible).
Yestarday i during a storm i noted that wipers works only on 1 speed no INT no II speed or mist no switch parking as if the relay is broken again but 13betc told me it was changed with the sealed one!
Also if i put the switch on "MIST" position i hear the relay "clicking" so i don't think it's the relay!
I have basic electronic knowledge, i can use soldering iron and multimeter! Can you tell me what to check on the board apart the relay? I already checked continuity spots of these 2 photos and all the bridges have 100% contiuity!
What else should i check?
Thank you
#12
Thank you but these photos are only reference photos i found on this forum, they are not the status of my wiper switch PCB. The coloured lines on these photos aren't physical wires but only lines to check continuity between spots! I checked all the spots with the multimeter and they are 100% ok! There aren't wires on my wiper switch PCB!
#13
Thank you but these photos are only reference photos i found on this forum, they are not the status of my wiper switch PCB. The coloured lines on these photos aren't physical wires but only lines to check continuity between spots! I checked all the spots with the multimeter and they are 100% ok! There aren't wires on my wiper switch PCB!
#14
I have a problem,
My wiper switch was rebuilt by 13betc service few years ago and worked very well. I don't start the wiper for few years (no raining days for my convertible).
Yestarday i during a storm i noted that wipers works only on 1 speed no INT no II speed or mist no switch parking as if the relay is broken again but 13betc told me it was changed with the sealed one!
Also if i put the switch on "MIST" position i hear the relay "clicking" so i don't think it's the relay!
I have basic electronic knowledge, i can use soldering iron and multimeter! Can you tell me what to check on the board apart the relay? I already checked continuity spots of these 2 photos and all the bridges have 100% contiuity!
What else should i check?
Thank you
My wiper switch was rebuilt by 13betc service few years ago and worked very well. I don't start the wiper for few years (no raining days for my convertible).
Yestarday i during a storm i noted that wipers works only on 1 speed no INT no II speed or mist no switch parking as if the relay is broken again but 13betc told me it was changed with the sealed one!
Also if i put the switch on "MIST" position i hear the relay "clicking" so i don't think it's the relay!
I have basic electronic knowledge, i can use soldering iron and multimeter! Can you tell me what to check on the board apart the relay? I already checked continuity spots of these 2 photos and all the bridges have 100% contiuity!
What else should i check?
Thank you
There was a cold solder on the middle pin on the the left of the relay of the photo above.
@13B Etc you made a good job i think a cold solder can happen over the time.
All is well that ends well!
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1987RX7guy
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