Hey guys, my wiper switch is in need of a rebuild. I'm familiar with the DIY process for replacing all the relays on the wiper switch PC board, but I was looking to confirm the correct relay part #'s for the job before I order some. Can anyone confirm the following info I gathered on the web?

My specific application is for an FC coupe, S4 or S5 switch, with the rear wiper:

Omron relay, part # G5LE-14-DC12 (need 1)

Omron relay, part # G6C-2114P-US-DC12 (need 2 if you have the rear wiper, 1 if you don't)

Both of these relays look like they are readily available from multiple sources.

 

I bought those exact relays a long time ago to do this. It ended up I was not careful enough desoldering and not wanting to trash a second wiper switch, ended up buying one already rebuilt. But those are indeed the relay part numbers I have on hand.

 

Thanks for confirming Jerry! I have a spare wiper switch sitting in my FC parts stash, so I think what I'll do is swap that one in to my car and see how well it works, and do the de-soldering surgery to put the new relays in my existing dead switch so I'll have a rebuilt spare.

While I hate de-soldering jobs, what I'm more worried about is breaking the unobtainium dash plastics when I R&R the wiper switch.

 

Taking that gauge cluster hood off is a nightmare every single time.

 

You ain't kidding!

I had good luck getting the cluster out of the car, but I took the extra step of removing the steering wheel because I couldn't get it out otherwise, even with the tilt wheel all the way down. The **** show started when I got the cluster on the bench and had to remove the cruise & wiper switch from the cluster. Almost ALL of the screw mount posts for the switches were already cracked or broken. The screw posts for the headlight & turn signal switches weren't in much better shape. So now I'm doing some JB weld epoxy rebuilding of the screw posts. Good thing you can't see it when it's installed, cause it will probably be ugly - I'm molding new posts with the epoxy for the really trashed ones, using large plastic straws as a mold form, and re-drilling new screw holes. For the ones that are just cracked, or a small section snapped off, I'll glue the snapped piece back with super glue, and reinforce the entire post with the JB weld epoxy.

 

So here's the result of my plastic repairs on some of the screw posts for mounting the various cluster switches...



This is the post for the wiper switch. I super glued the cracked section piece back in, then using a thick plastic straw as a mold, reinforced the whole post with JB Weld epoxy

This is one of the posts for the cruise switches. Note the other plastic trim piece that fits over it - that piece caused me some trimming (and cussing) because the JB weld repair didn't take that into account initially.

 

You're far too clever and talented Pete, it looks good. Still dealing with mine. The tab on my dash snapped off. I'm not quite sure how I'm going to fix that one yet.

 

Here are some STL files I made a few years ago to do this kind of repair on my dash plastic. There are screw posts, which I ended up turning into studs with some allthread to hold the gauges in, as well as some bosses to jb weld on for attaching to the rest of the dash

https://grabcad.com/library/s5-rx7-g...-parts-1/files

you will likely have to fudge/adjust as needed, but they should strengthen the part quite a bit

 

Well my new relays arrived yesterday, and I finally finished the wiper switch repair and got it all back together & working 100%. This job fought me the whole way, but I beat it into submission

Sorry I didn't take any other pictures, but here's a few of the snags I ran into and solutions I used that might help the next fool that attempts this job:

1. De-soldering the relays, tip #1: It helps A LOT to drill small holes in the plastic case so you can get a pick or tiny screwdriver under the relay to help lever them off the PC board while applying heat with the soldering iron to the stubborn pads. Even with a good soldering rig, and de-soldering suckers & braid, there is always SOME solder that refuses to loose its grip on the component.

2. De-soldering relays, tip #2: If you're as unlucky (or as unskilled) as I was removing these relays, one or more of the PC board traces/pads might lift off the circuit board from the component side of the board, trashing that connection. If that DOES happen, trace that PC board wiring trace to figure out what it connects to. I was lucky, the one pad I buggered up only went from one of the relays to another, with no other connections, so I simply soldered an insulated jumper wire between the two applicable relay terminals on the solder side of the board, when I soldered in the new relays.

3. Murphy's law for FC plastics - when disassembling something, things will never reassemble & go back/work EXACTLY the way they were before. With the repaired wiper switch installed in the cluster hood on the bench all of the switches functioned without binding. But when I first put the cluster assembly back in the car's dash, I found that the hazard flasher switch would bind up - push it in, it clicks & flashers come on; push on it again and it wouldn't pop back out all the way and shut off the flashers The final fix for this involved lightly sanding the circular opening for the hazard flasher switch in the cluster hood to gain a smidge more clearance to eliminate the binding.

Now I know why RockAuto charges about $800 for new FC wiper switches!

 

I have a problem,
My wiper switch was rebuilt by 13betc service few years ago and worked very well. I don't start the wiper for few years (no raining days for my convertible).
Yestarday i during a storm i noted that wipers works only on 1 speed no INT no II speed or mist no switch parking as if the relay is broken again but 13betc told me it was changed with the sealed one!
Also if i put the switch on "MIST" position i hear the relay "clicking" so i don't think it's the relay!

I have basic electronic knowledge, i can use soldering iron and multimeter! Can you tell me what to check on the board apart the relay? I already checked continuity spots of these 2 photos and all the bridges have 100% contiuity!

What else should i check?

Thank you

 

Hmm, those yellow wires on I see on the solder side of the PC board are not normally supposed to be there. It looks to me like the 13BEtc folks had the same problem I had rebuilding mine when they rebuilt yours - some of the solder pads lifted, and they attempted to fix it with jumper wires. I'm guessing the relays themselves are fine, but some of the relay pads/traces were damaged during the rebuild process and/or the continuity of the wire jumper paths they placed as a work-around are now compromised. I'd say either get another used but working wiper switch to replace it, or try a DIY do-over. De-solder the relays, closely inspect all the pads & traces associated with the relays and see if you can fix what's broken, and re-install/solder the relays back in.

 

Thank you but these photos are only reference photos i found on this forum, they are not the status of my wiper switch PCB. The coloured lines on these photos aren't physical wires but only lines to check continuity between spots! I checked all the spots with the multimeter and they are 100% ok! There aren't wires on my wiper switch PCB!

 

Ok, then I'd suggest working through the applicable wiper troubleshooting steps outlined in the FSM, sections S (Body) and T (Body Electrical System) to confirm you still have a wiper switch problem, and go from there.

 

I managed to solve the problem!

There was a cold solder on the middle pin on the the left of the relay of the photo above.

@13B Etc you made a good job i think a cold solder can happen over the time.

All is well that ends well!