RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i don't look at my car as a 25 year old piece of machinery when i have a handheld sitting next to me that i can adjust almost any engine function within a few seconds and the car has well over twice the horsepower that it originally came with, all while the simple engine is relatively as it was designed when it rolled off the assembly plant with very minor changes done to it in its 210,000 miles.

who wants to redesign a brand new car that they just spent $40k for and void the warranty? and in actuality most new cars it is very easy to do more harm than good as technology increases and you have inexperienced "tuners" throwing ebay parts on because they are claimed to be "better".

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Hey Ben! This is the answer to your original question.

Mercedes KC Kit Gen 3 all years* | Kincaid Performance, Inc.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Ok...I'll say it..

That is So Cool!!!..lol!

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

would be nice to store the cool refrigerant and use it for short bursts to keep the intercooler cool, ideally you wouldn't want to have the compressor running when you are trying to make power as that is counterproductive.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

What they are doing in this particular car is using the existing OEM water to air intercooler system and enhancing it with the refrigeration adapter. Lots of the guys will also add a small storage tank of a couple of gallons capacity to create a supply of cool/cold water for when the A/C compressor turns off. I believe it turns off based on RPM only, not throttle position. In this car, the intercooler water pump doesn't run constantly. It only runs when the car is boosting.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

same thing basically, now i have the time for those ideas but no money. go figure.

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

Or the AC compressor could be electric and driven by auxiliary Li battery.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

any form of battery would have to be charged outside the car, which would be a huge pain and the battery would have to be large to do that amount of work. charging any form of battery from the engine is even less efficient than a mechanical conversion.

i drive a hybrid, i know how much the losses are with charging batteries. hehe

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

These systems have been on the market for a while
Most new car guys dont like giving up a cool cabin and for whatver reason lots of drama follows the guys who make the systems

bjf498

First real helpful post on the forums here, I'll try to be as helpful as I can. As an hvac professional the amount of heat you are looking to remove (130f+ in some cases) would cause MOST car hvac compressorS to run such a high head pressure to the point of extreme inefficiency. Let's say you have a small 400 sqft shop, it's uninsulated and in direct sunlight. It's average inside temp when sealed reaches 95f. Now you put in a 1.5 ton system and expect it to remove the heat from that space. Although it's only 400sqft the heat load is through the roof, so the system would never bring the space below 85f if your lucky. Now let's say you have a large fan, the fan moves 1000cfm or so, you open the doors to the shop and let the fan evacuate the heat. Now the shop in theory should be close to the outdoor temp in the shade. Ok, let's say you put 4 tons of cooling in said space. Yes it will more than likely cool the space but at what cost? You'll probably get another 10f drop vs the fan but the fan pulls 1/8 the power dran so what's the better option? My point is, it could be done yes. Is it worth the amount of drain weather I be electrical drain through the battery then the alternator then the engine or through the compressor then the engine. In the end using the free cooling you have (air flowing through the front of the car) is so much more efficient it's not even funny.


Cliff notes: you cannot use the oem ac system or any oem ac system to drop the intake temp more than what a quality fmic would.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you're overthinking the issue though. the A/C system is just a system of heat exchangers, so is the intercooler. the intercooler does generate a lot of heat but we aren't trying to bring the temps down to 32F.

many people use water to air intercoolers, except the water has a limited thermal capacity so it's more for drag racing. turn the air conditioner into a partial cooler for the water and you now have a water battery for cooling off the intercooler.

in my mind that idea would work, not for track duty but for the intermittent burst of boost, like a highway duel where you can cool off the water between runs.

DR_Knight

iTrader: (23)

Run electric motor with supplied power from alternator if your alternator can supply enough amps. Thermostatically controlled. Guessing motor would pull a lot of current since just by turning on a/c system, revs dip.

Been eyeing electric superchargers, going to school for mechatronics, been messing with raspberry pi to control systems.

Know you've been thinking of this for years, but would be cool to see some data you've acquired over the years or some weekend project you tried with this idea. Always curious on what you're working on

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Here is a thread where a guy is using Killer Chiller at the drag strip and street. It seems to work pretty well he says for "mainly for street driving with a few quick blast up to 140mph on the interstate".

Killer Chiller installed / heat exchanger removed = 50 degree IATS ! - MBWorld.org Forums

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

KC's website is pretty much absolutely worthless for information describing how their system works.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

because most of them are terrible to deal with, its as if they are all the same person every company fit sucks and lots of drama surrounding them

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

This might help give an overview.

rx7jocke

There is a rotary race bike that is "gas cooled"...i dont know the details but it sounds to me as if the whole engine is refridgereted, so it should work on an ic too?