Refreshing suspension without compromising NVH too much.
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Full Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 201
Likes: 7
From: Yorkshire
Refreshing suspension without compromising NVH too much.
So once I've finished my floor repairs and under-sealing then its time to start putting some suspension back into my FC.
Now its not been on the road in over 20 years, so lets assume that every wearable component of the suspension requires replacement. Bushes / shocks etc.
I'd like to firm things up a little bit, but without going mad, this is after all a car I plan to use every day, if it crashes and bangs every time I roll over an acorn then I'll probably not enjoy it all that much.
So given that OEM parts are either very expensive or impossible to come by, and I know there are a lot of you that have tried almost every conceivable part, what I'm after is advice on which parts I can upgrade without affecting NVH too much and which parts I'm best leaving OEM.
I've already bought a set of KYB AGXs that I'll use with the standard springs to begin with, I've also got new top mounts, bump stops, rubbers etc.
I bought an Energy Suspension master bushing kit as it was half price, I don't have to use all the bits, below are my thoughts, any input appreciated.
Front
- Roll Bar Drop links - Pretty sure I can go poly with these without any downsides
- Roll Bar mounts - as above, poly
- Wishbones - Not sure if I should Poly or leave the bushes as standard.
Rear
- Subframe bushes - Probably leave as OEM, they look in perfectly good condition as is, no splitting,
- DTSS - Racing beat DTSS delete
- Lateral rods - these are worn out, new ones are really expensive. Could get adjustable and set to standard length? Presumably they will transmit more vibration and noise than OEM though.
- Control arm drop links - These have to rotate a small amount, OK as poly?
- Control arm bushing - Presumably spherical bearings will transmit a lot of NVH over rubber, try and get standards or poly?
- Subframe stay - leave as standard its in good condition.
- Subframe mounts - leave as OEM rubber?
- ARB drop links and mounts - poly as front
I've done plenty of searching, but most people seem intent on making track weapons or are happy to drive around being shaking to pieces, I'll be content with a great road car and the odd track day.
Now its not been on the road in over 20 years, so lets assume that every wearable component of the suspension requires replacement. Bushes / shocks etc.
I'd like to firm things up a little bit, but without going mad, this is after all a car I plan to use every day, if it crashes and bangs every time I roll over an acorn then I'll probably not enjoy it all that much.
So given that OEM parts are either very expensive or impossible to come by, and I know there are a lot of you that have tried almost every conceivable part, what I'm after is advice on which parts I can upgrade without affecting NVH too much and which parts I'm best leaving OEM.
I've already bought a set of KYB AGXs that I'll use with the standard springs to begin with, I've also got new top mounts, bump stops, rubbers etc.
I bought an Energy Suspension master bushing kit as it was half price, I don't have to use all the bits, below are my thoughts, any input appreciated.
Front
- Roll Bar Drop links - Pretty sure I can go poly with these without any downsides
- Roll Bar mounts - as above, poly
- Wishbones - Not sure if I should Poly or leave the bushes as standard.
Rear
- Subframe bushes - Probably leave as OEM, they look in perfectly good condition as is, no splitting,
- DTSS - Racing beat DTSS delete
- Lateral rods - these are worn out, new ones are really expensive. Could get adjustable and set to standard length? Presumably they will transmit more vibration and noise than OEM though.
- Control arm drop links - These have to rotate a small amount, OK as poly?
- Control arm bushing - Presumably spherical bearings will transmit a lot of NVH over rubber, try and get standards or poly?
- Subframe stay - leave as standard its in good condition.
- Subframe mounts - leave as OEM rubber?
- ARB drop links and mounts - poly as front
I've done plenty of searching, but most people seem intent on making track weapons or are happy to drive around being shaking to pieces, I'll be content with a great road car and the odd track day.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 201
Likes: 7
From: Yorkshire
Not by the time I get them from America to the UK.
My local Mazda dealer just gets a puzzled look on his face when I mention parts older than 10 years.
Pretty much every part we get for these cars over here we have to get sent across from you guys!
Guess given the lack of feedback the only way to find out is just through experimentation.
My local Mazda dealer just gets a puzzled look on his face when I mention parts older than 10 years.
Pretty much every part we get for these cars over here we have to get sent across from you guys!
Guess given the lack of feedback the only way to find out is just through experimentation.
Smells like 2 stroke.
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 527
Likes: 20
From: Misery
My personal findings:
These cars handle so well in stock form that unless you're doing track days, time attack, or serious parking lot racing, you don't need much to get really good street manners and good handling.
If I were building another street FC for spirited driving AND comfort: I would do DTSS eliminators, polyurethane bushing kit, stock springs, slightly stiffer front sway bar, and the "performance" mazda differential/trans mounts. In the grand scheme of things though, tires. TIRES. (or if you're from the UK I guess it's tyres.) That's where I've found most of the handling comes from on cars like these. Slightly wider tires, softer compound, maybe a little more air pressure if you're running stock sizes with 15's and the balloon sidewalls. I don't need to say this but I will to cover my ***: fix/replace the broken stuff first before doing the performance parts. Too many times I see people half-assing suspension upgrades when they don't repair things like brakes and tie rod ends first.
These cars handle so well in stock form that unless you're doing track days, time attack, or serious parking lot racing, you don't need much to get really good street manners and good handling.
If I were building another street FC for spirited driving AND comfort: I would do DTSS eliminators, polyurethane bushing kit, stock springs, slightly stiffer front sway bar, and the "performance" mazda differential/trans mounts. In the grand scheme of things though, tires. TIRES. (or if you're from the UK I guess it's tyres.) That's where I've found most of the handling comes from on cars like these. Slightly wider tires, softer compound, maybe a little more air pressure if you're running stock sizes with 15's and the balloon sidewalls. I don't need to say this but I will to cover my ***: fix/replace the broken stuff first before doing the performance parts. Too many times I see people half-assing suspension upgrades when they don't repair things like brakes and tie rod ends first.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 201
Likes: 7
From: Yorkshire
My personal findings:
These cars handle so well in stock form that unless you're doing track days, time attack, or serious parking lot racing, you don't need much to get really good street manners and good handling.
If I were building another street FC for spirited driving AND comfort: I would do DTSS eliminators, polyurethane bushing kit, stock springs, slightly stiffer front sway bar, and the "performance" mazda differential/trans mounts. In the grand scheme of things though, tires. TIRES. (or if you're from the UK I guess it's tyres.) That's where I've found most of the handling comes from on cars like these. Slightly wider tires, softer compound, maybe a little more air pressure if you're running stock sizes with 15's and the balloon sidewalls. I don't need to say this but I will to cover my ***: fix/replace the broken stuff first before doing the performance parts. Too many times I see people half-assing suspension upgrades when they don't repair things like brakes and tie rod ends first.
These cars handle so well in stock form that unless you're doing track days, time attack, or serious parking lot racing, you don't need much to get really good street manners and good handling.
If I were building another street FC for spirited driving AND comfort: I would do DTSS eliminators, polyurethane bushing kit, stock springs, slightly stiffer front sway bar, and the "performance" mazda differential/trans mounts. In the grand scheme of things though, tires. TIRES. (or if you're from the UK I guess it's tyres.) That's where I've found most of the handling comes from on cars like these. Slightly wider tires, softer compound, maybe a little more air pressure if you're running stock sizes with 15's and the balloon sidewalls. I don't need to say this but I will to cover my ***: fix/replace the broken stuff first before doing the performance parts. Too many times I see people half-assing suspension upgrades when they don't repair things like brakes and tie rod ends first.
Regarding the broken stuff, there is none, this has been a nuts and bolt strip down and there's nothing going back on the car that isn't new or restored.
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