redline or no redline??
#1
"why so serious"
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redline or no redline??
ok im new to rx7's so please, iso sometimes i need help on simple things.
ok here goes, since a got my rx7 about 2 months ago, lots of people keep telling me that i need to constantly rev the car to high rpms to keep the engine healthy, some have even told me to redline it every now and then. so my question is; is this true. i know that the rotary engine is a rapid reving engine, and that it can stand higher levels of RPM's than your usual cylinder. Anyways can somebody enlighten me on this subject...thank you
ok here goes, since a got my rx7 about 2 months ago, lots of people keep telling me that i need to constantly rev the car to high rpms to keep the engine healthy, some have even told me to redline it every now and then. so my question is; is this true. i know that the rotary engine is a rapid reving engine, and that it can stand higher levels of RPM's than your usual cylinder. Anyways can somebody enlighten me on this subject...thank you
#2
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i redline daily
it is good to rev you car and spend some time above 3800 rpm. this is when your secondary injectors come on.
if you never drive above 3800 your secondaries can get a little pluged
it is good to rev you car and spend some time above 3800 rpm. this is when your secondary injectors come on.
if you never drive above 3800 your secondaries can get a little pluged
#3
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You're in spring valley? Ca?
Yeah, apparently redlining the engine helps knock loose any carbon deposits and keeps the engine clean.
I redline mine often. The car produces alot more power at high rpms.
--Alex
Yeah, apparently redlining the engine helps knock loose any carbon deposits and keeps the engine clean.
I redline mine often. The car produces alot more power at high rpms.
--Alex
#4
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rotaries tend to develp(sp) carbon deposits when run normally(ie grandma/shifting at 3k EVERYTIME) and also in automatics, more commonly in automatics considering most of the people that originally bought them bought them for comfort, not to redline
Anywho, when you redline a rotary it helps break off carbon deposits, due to the high rpm, also taking it for trips, 100miles or more of constant freeway driving. the redline thing is good if you dont use the freeway much, if you do use the freeway redline first when you get on the freeway if you can and that suffecient.
The idea is to redline once in a while to keep carbon from building up, it is true that rotaries hold up to higher rpms ENGINE wise, but it puts alot of stress on the waterpump and your other accesories
redlining once in a while is good, dont do it too much
hope this helps
Anywho, when you redline a rotary it helps break off carbon deposits, due to the high rpm, also taking it for trips, 100miles or more of constant freeway driving. the redline thing is good if you dont use the freeway much, if you do use the freeway redline first when you get on the freeway if you can and that suffecient.
The idea is to redline once in a while to keep carbon from building up, it is true that rotaries hold up to higher rpms ENGINE wise, but it puts alot of stress on the waterpump and your other accesories
redlining once in a while is good, dont do it too much
hope this helps
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#10
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If you look on your Tachometer, there's a red line. That's a good place to stop. You have a redline buzzer that comes on when you exceed that to kindly let you know you've exceeded it.
#13
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Shadow7, the key to the treads above was redlining under load. Meaning driving the car. Sitting in the driveway "reving to redline" will do more harm than good. Do not "constantly" redline her. Carbon build up can be caused by using inferior oil and not changing it frequently. I never redlined my first 7 bought new but did change oil at 2K failthfully. Original engine lasted 228,700 miles.
#14
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Originally Posted by Jodoolin
Original engine lasted 228,700 miles.
edit: crap i thought I was in the 3rd gen section lol.
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Originally Posted by snowball
yes, just dont go past.
so your suppose to shift/hit the clutch right before the red line/warning buzzered? WTF, if you dont even hit the red part it wont "BUZZ" and its not consider red lining.
#17
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Originally Posted by Jodoolin
Shadow7, the key to the treads above was redlining under load. Meaning driving the car. Sitting in the driveway "reving to redline" will do more harm than good. Do not "constantly" redline her. Carbon build up can be caused by using inferior oil and not changing it frequently. I never redlined my first 7 bought new but did change oil at 2K failthfully. Original engine lasted 228,700 miles.
wow thats a lot of driving.
#18
No es bueno.
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i redline quite often really, probably once a day if i drive my 7 and at most myabe 3 times a day and have never had any problems from it. but I never go past the redline and usually shift a bit before. also, i feel left out. everyone has a redline buzzer but me =(. i've heard they get annoying after a while anyways haha
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Originally Posted by darksider
so your suppose to shift/hit the clutch right before the red line/warning buzzered? WTF, if you dont even hit the red part it wont "BUZZ" and its not consider red lining.
#20
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Annoying after a while? How long are you going to keep it there lol. The buzzer comes on when you hit it, or possibly slightly before, never really driven staring at my tach, peripheral vision isn't exactly the most accurate. And don't stay in the red, there's a reason it's red.
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Shortly after the redline you get fuel cutout...so that's how you know you went too far
My buzzer goes off at about 6900. I don't know how good it is for thecar, but I redline it frequently. It's more fun that way.
BTW, I saw a thread about some guys who took a pretty junked up engine, removed the rev limiter, and floored the accellerator no load. It took 9 minutes for the engine to blow.
--Alex
My buzzer goes off at about 6900. I don't know how good it is for thecar, but I redline it frequently. It's more fun that way.
BTW, I saw a thread about some guys who took a pretty junked up engine, removed the rev limiter, and floored the accellerator no load. It took 9 minutes for the engine to blow.
--Alex
#23
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the auto transmission revs up to 6000 then changes.
Rotary engine are tonnes tougher than the stupid cylinder cars. They can handle 8000 easy as. (less moving parts = less stress on the engine)
Rotary engine are tonnes tougher than the stupid cylinder cars. They can handle 8000 easy as. (less moving parts = less stress on the engine)
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I have had my TII past 8k (accident during a drift, paying more attention to driving than tach) and it not only ran fine, it started running REALLY good. I do notice that if I drive conservative for a few days then redline the motor, the first redline shift will blow some smoke out of the tailpipe, but any redline shift after won't do that. I figure that is the carbon buildup being removed.
For all intents and purposes, redlining in an S4 means shifting at 7000 rpm. In an S5 N/A, it is 8000 rpm.
For all intents and purposes, redlining in an S4 means shifting at 7000 rpm. In an S5 N/A, it is 8000 rpm.