DrifterRX

Well I normally post on the FC3s forum but it seems that my problems are too odd, or they just don't like me anymore.
So heres a link to my post there, I just don't feel like typing it all out again.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=30632

RETed

Do you know how to cut&paste?
I'm fricken banned from there. :P


-Ted

RETed

I thought MikeL banned me, but he claims he didn't.
I'm trying to get a straight answer from any of the admins, but they do not respond very quick.
Their webmaster@www.teamfc3s.org email addy bounces.
I don't like making another account just so I can ask why me other nick got banned, but that was the last resort.

I had a private argument with MikeL in PM, and I got shortly banned after that.
I always thought it was MikeL that got me banned.


-Ted

DrifterRX

Eh, I guess I can, but its about 25+ post long, mostly all me though. Anyway, I'll get started on it. Thx for at least hijacking my thread

Ok so I'm in the process of finally getting a rebuilt ported engine. I'll be removing the EGR, ACV and misc other emissions stuff. I'm going to do the TB mod also, so do I need to keep the BAC? What vacum hoses are going to be left when I'm done? I'll be keeping my AC, but my car doesn't have power steering or ABS brakes so I don't have to worry about any of that crap. I'll be taking pics, and what not. I just wanted to start a thread, give some back ground and let people comment ect... I'll be installing a walbro also.
The interal components of my engine are as follows; rotary aviation basic rebuild kit/gasket set, atkins solid corner seals/side seals, 80-85psi oil pressure regulator from mazdatrix- I purchased oil controll ring springs from them also.
I'm also going to be putting a cone filter on too.
I like input (good input ) so post it up. I'll get some pictures going when I get back to the desktop.



Keep the BAC valve, Scott.

Nice work so far.

B



Thx, everthing is going fine.... except the side seals aren't coming out of one of the rotors.... I've soaked it and worked on it and soaked it some more but I just can't get them to come out.



The parts keep trickling in, got my walbro today, still need to send my injectors out. I'm going to send them to Maren.


just can't seem to get the side seals out of this one stupid rotor!!!! I'm going to post so pics now, but they turned out rather fuzy and my batteries need to recharge now.



i also had trouble getting the side seals out of my rotor my first rebuild. turns out the previouse owner had starved it of oil and the rotor got so hot in the center that the cast iron shrunk down "clammping" the side seal in. moral of the story: check for heat burns or any shrinkedge in the side seal grooves.

the rotor now sits at my desk at work.





Thats not what I wanted to hear!!!! I need encouragement and helpful info lol
The other rotor pratically fell apart.


break them.
yaya hehehe break it...

huh huh huh and use fire



200psi on an airchuck and some thin oil will usually get them out with little effort. Otherwise just keep picking at it till it comes out. Just be careful not to damage the grove. From the looks of that rotor I am sure the reason it is stuck in there is becuse of rust and or carbon. Once you get it out use one of the broken peices and some carb cleaner to clean any crud out of the groove.

Clearence everything before it goes back toguther.

GregW






I've soaked that rotor in brake clean and diesel and they still wont come out. I've broken most of the other side seals in to small pieces trying to get these last 6 out. To get my mind off how agrivated I am I did the TB mod and cleaned up some more of the engine compartment. I also started thinking about relocating my battery.
I think I'll be putting a torch to it on saturday to heat it up and see if it will let go of them.




Well I ended up scrapping that rotor as the side seals wouldn't come out.
Right now I'm just waiting for rotor to show up.
I've got my boost gauge and a/f gauge installed, I finished the fuel pump rewire, the walbro is in, the TB is modded. The waste gate on my turbo is ported, all the block off plates are on. If anyone has a photo shop or something, could you please mark what should go were on this UIM, I like this pic much better than any of the others I've seen. I'll be using OMP.



I have a few question now that I have all the right parts, and the engine is in.
Where do I hook the factory pressure sensor to, where do I hook the "flapper" acctuator to, theres a coolant pipe (I assume) that stick stairght up tward the UIM from the block what should I do with that? and the soleniod on the UIM that hooks to the TMIC what do I do with that>>> I have all sorts of questions and no one to talk to.
I'd like to than BDC for answering my previous question, even calling me back to ask what I wanted.
Now the way I understand it is that I have to block off all the vac nipples on the UIM but the one for the spider.
I'm keeping the BAC so where should I route the coolant the flows threw it? or should I just stop coolant from flowing threw it......
Theres a metal line welded onto the oil feed line for the turbo, the line that goes to the front iron on the drivers side..... what should I hook that up to?
I understand that I should hook the BOV and my boost gauge to the 45 degree nipple on the back of the LIM.
If you want pics of what I'm talking about I'll glady post them to help visualize. Thx
Scott Smith




Ok, so I figured out that I need to run the water line thats under the UIM to the BAC. So thats taken care of.
Heres a pic of where I have some vac lines going.


i just did this! so its fresh in my head

the one you have labeled as to the aftermarket guage goes to the FPR stock.
#1 shouldnt go anywhere, mines only there because its stuck to the other pipe. its not attatched to anything on either side...
i have #2 going to the back of the throttle body. its for the air bleeders.
i have factory pressure sensor and bov, and boost guage all t'd off of the nipple on the back of the LIM. i removed the twin scroll, so i cant tell ya where that should hook upto.


good luck with all that man.

you'll probably want to use that top nipple on the back side of the TB (the right side of your pic) dedicated for the FPR. everything else looks good. i had mine setup the same way on the back side of the TB except for the FPR, which i used the top nipple for.



Ok, after several calls to BDC we figured out that I had the return line and the feed line for the fuel rails backwards
So I got that fixed.
I did the fuel pump rewire prior to putting the engine. (I was bored and waiting for parts) I didn't really get a chance to test it persay. I did connect the test coupler and it pumped out a bunch of gas so I figured I had it wired correctly.
I made the mother of all screw ups, I ***-umed that I had done it correctly.
So, if anyone has done this and screwed it up, please reply.
Heres what its doing- the pump will only come on when cranking, but the car wont start.... if I disconnect the four wires in the front of the car it will spin up and then die- no more pump because the wires are disconnected or something..... I guess the smart thing to do would be to undo the rewire and see if it starts and runs, then try and figure what I did wrong..... right?
So its only 11:20pm I still have time!!!
I'll repost if I get it figured out.


Ok, I pulled the resistor and everything and still the same problem. So I checked the FSM to find the Ohm spec for it and heres what I get a-b=0 (in spec) c-d=78.1(68-92spec) e-f=.7(.64spec). So I guess the question I have is is that .06 that big of a deal? This is the fuel pump resistor relay, the spec in my 87 FSM is on page 4b-71
I'm so close to having it running and now this lol.
I guess I should say that if I disconnected the 4 wires up front the car would spin and then run, but then sputter out so..... but if I reconnected them it would spin and try to fire. Not sure what the deal is there but its after midnight and I have to work tommorrow
So if anyone could please help me out so that tommorrow is the last night that I have to acctually work on it it would be most excellent!!
Thx & Good night
Scott Smith


I just checked the error codes to see if it was kicking any out and!!!! Theres a whole PILE of them!!!! What I really need is a good complete list of the codes. So if anyone has a link, that isn't dead (searched the forum) that would be most helpful.
Thx



Ok, I got all the error codes taken care of now, and everything seems to check out. Now, I took my walbro out and put my stock pump back in, thinking that I might just be seeing too much FP, nothing changed.
Any ideas?

If someone could post what voltage they are seeing at the pump at start up that would be nice, I'm seeing about 10vs to the pump while cranking... not sure if thats normal or not.
Also, the four wires up front that you have to connect togethers, could someone give mes the voltage or omhs or amp readings of E&F together and A&B, so that I can try and check them to make sure I have them hooked up right....
Please I need help I have to have it running before august 5th!!!!
Thx
Scott Smith



Ok, I got it to run, guess what it was!!!! It was the TB the plates where sticking open a little flooding it out, my own fault I didn't take the top spring thing off and it was rocking back and not allowing them to close.... So nothing was wrong with my pump or wiring to begin with which makes me very happy.

New problem, theres oil coming out from the front bolt....... mabye I didn't get it in there tight enough, I'll have to try an impact on it later today. I think I'll take it out, put some red thread lock on it this time and then put it back in and see if that helps.
Just on the off chance that theres another possability for the oil there, please post and let me know.
Thank you again B for answering my questions and listening to me babble, and not tellimg to stop calling already
Scott Smith



Ok, heres whats going on now (beside single handly post whoring my own post)!!!! It running, and idling and stuff, and I drove it around very genty. It really wants to go
Anyway, my oil pressure is low 40something at 2500rpms and drops down to 30ish or lower at 500 rpms...

My A/F ratio is all over the place, the gauge bounces around like a ping pong ball!!! Note- this is an autometer a/f gauge using one wire It seems to be mostly lean!!! eek!!! I checked for vac leaks but I couldn't find any, it idles a little rough but I still have some fine tuning to do... any suggestion on timing?
If I deccelerate it will drop down lean, if I just put it in nuetral it will also go lean, it will then idle up and go stoich for a bit then lean again.

I drove it for a bit then when I stopped at a stop sign it idled down to 1200 rpms then started to bounce up and down between 12-14ish.... odd not sure about that one yet.

However, it runs, doesn't make any funny noises and well... stuff
I put my walbro back in too.
I also picked up an extra O2 sensor even though its not kicking out an O2 code, and a set of new plugs. (Putting them in today)

So, as always looking for help, but it runs now so!!!
Thx in advance
Scott Smith


Ok, well the timing was about 5 degrees retarded, not massively painful.
Now it seems like its missing. Is there anything other than the coil packs that could cause that? Like some kind of signal from the ECU?
Any ideas?
Thx
Scott Smith


I don't know of any. Rebuilds take a while to build compression, just take it easy.

You're going to run rich with the warlboro. I'd get an aftermarket FPR to lower the pressure back to stock.

Make sure you recalibrate the TPS too.


Ok, I got it running "better" I swapped out plug wires, didn't really seem to make a difference. I also adjusted the TPS, it need less than a 1/8 of a turn counter clock wise to make one light light up. It runs better now, and the A/F gauge doesn't go quite as crazy. Right after start up it will be lean at idle, then after driving for a bit it will be rich at idle....

It still starts hard, I have to turn the pump off then once it catches turn it back on again. I'm looking into getting a FPR so, if anyone has any other ideas as to why its doing this please speak up.


Ok, for no reason what so ever the engine locked up on me....
I was doing 3k in 3rd just cruising down the road and bang it stopped!
I let it idle for about 1hr prior to ever driving it, and I had 96 miles on it. It never made any funny noises, oil pressure was ok, I noticed that my gauge is miss calibrated it rests far below 0 anyway.
You'd think that if there was a problem then it would have surfaced right away.......... There isn't any oil in the coolant or the other way around. My temps were good ect.... I can't see anything threw the exhaust ports, or feel anything on the housings ect........ But its stuck solid so... I will hopefully have it out tonight. I'm waiting on an engine hoist right now. Please shed light on this!!!!
Thx
Scott Smith


You may've sheared the front cover o-ring possibly or maybe something else. Never ever EVER start and run an engine w/o having a known-good oil pressure gauge on it. Otherwise, you have no idea if something else is going on. I'd suspect it's oil related and you spun a bearing or two off of the respective bearing race and welded it to its journal on the crankshaft. That's of course assuming that there's an oil pressure problem.

B

Yes, thats assuming theres a problem. On piston engines that I've worked on this is pretty much what a spun bearing is like so....
Now I have to determine why there was an oil deliver problem, and what I have to do to fix it.
I'm thinking if it is a problem then it would be the rear stationary gear bearing as its at the end of the system right?
This truely is trial by fire


It was the front stationary gear bearing, looks like the tang sheared off. The front journal on the E shaft is screwed, so is the front of the shaft its mushroomed now from pounding on it to get the shaft out. I figured if you can't turn the engine over at all then the bearing must have siezed very nicely. Figure out it was the front bearing be all the shavings up there all the other bearings look fine, everything else loocks fine. I speced the oil pump out again, and its well within factor specs. The stationary gear itself is fine too. I have some pics but its late and I don't want to dl them/resize them ect.
I'm going to pull the E shaft out of my extra engine (then I'll get a look inside of it too), buy a new bearing, and new thrust washers as they were flooded with shavings. So, really all its cost me so far is another lesson in Murphys law, and about 60$.



What other signs of oil starvation should I be looking for, the other bearins appear to be fine. In fact the journal on the Eshaft doesn't really show any signs of oil starvation at all, just looks like the bearing spun on it.

Other news about the 150k engine that was in it, of the 4 inner oil control o rings there is only one whole one and less than a fraction of a part of another one, two whole o rings are completely gone (inner two that face the intermediate iron). Also there was one broken apex seal on the front rotor it was about 1/8 inch chunk that was cracked. The inside are very nice and clean though, the housings and irons are almost perfect with no nicks or scratches in them.




Well I'll have all the new bearings pressed into place tommorrow. I have a good oil pump and a good E shaft going in. I pulled the oil jet thingys out of the e shaft an sprayed the crap out of the inside of it. I had my oil cooler pressure cleaned and back flushed, I also cleaned the cooler lines. I bought an autometer electric oil pressure gauge, to monitor my pressure. I was told that with the racing beat 80-85psi pressure regulator, the thermal pellet, and running 20/50 I should see around 60-120psi between idle and mild accelloration.
I also hosed the engine out to make sure that there isn't any bearing particals floating around in it. I hosed the front cover out too, and the front cover pressure regulator (has the 2 washers in it).
I should have it together and going before 6pm on tuesday. Please if you can think of anything that I should look into before I get it together again, please post so that I can look into it.
I'd like to avoid another set back if possable.
Thanks again.
Scott Smith

DrifterRX

I had to make an adapter so that I could get the new sending unit onto the engine. This shouldn't effect the reading right??
Let me know if you want any pics that I might have.

RETed

Wow, crap, talk about epic!
No wonder you didn't want to retype that.

One question...when you pulled the bits out of the front, were the two Torrington needle beaings okay?
It sure sounds like one slipped...



-Ted

DrifterRX

Other than being flooded with brass bearing particles they were fine. I replaced them just to be on the safe side, I'm sure that with as much material as there was that they would have failed prematurely.
I got the engine in, I always seem to have to fight it when I just pull the engine, next time it all comes out in one shot then I don't have to fight lining the stupid thing up.

I am seriously tired right now, its too much work doing that without my air tools
Or a jack, jack stands, good lighting ect..... I can't wait to get home!!!

All thats left now is to mount the turbo, uim/lim and misc other little thingys.

Now about that oil pressure sending unit that I posted a pic of. I know that it wont read as accurate as it would if I'd bought a metering block but it should still only read at most 5psi low right?

Yeah its epic, and I cut out some of the topics for just posting pictures.


I'd like to say that there is nothing wrong with the FC3s forum, its just like here, you take the good with the bad and deal with it. Also, if people don't respond to your posts, you can always just post on the other forums

DrifterRX

Ok, its running, but I have a huge vac leak my egr block of plate is sucking in air o well I'll just pull it off and fix it.
Now my autometer oil pressure guage pegs it self out to 100psi even before the engine is on. There is no possable way for me to have gotten the wiring wrong, so I was thinking that the sender isn't grounding itself out threw the housing, what should I do? should I ground the sender out with a wire to the negative terminal? or what???
Please I need the help right now, I have to drive this car back to South Dakota from Iowa on Friday!!!!
Thx
Scott Smith

RETed

The sensor is single wire, right?
If so, the housing needs to be grounded.
You can just crimp on a male spade (or equivalent) and use a band clamp to secure this connector to the round housing of the sensor.
On the other side, crimp on a ring terminal and connect to ANY bolt that's close by on the engine(?).
You do not need to run the other side to the negative terminal of the battery.
The ENTIRE chassis and engine is grounded.


-Ted

DrifterRX

Well I got the gauge to work and I'm putting the intake back together now. I turns out that my LIM gasket was not seated correctly had to pull all sorts of crap to get that off and fix it. So what did I learn, use more permatex!!! I'll keep you guys updated, if I don't think its gonna survive the 700 mile drive I'll just tow it home, then I'll only have to pay for gas for 2 vehicals, save some money or something, minus the trailer cost

DrifterRX

My oil pressure is a little under 75 at 1500rpms, it that ok? should it be higher or lower? I have the racing beat 80-85psi regulator and the thermal pellet, using a k&n oil filter, my oil cooler has been back flushed and pressure washed, and I'm running castrols gtx 20/50 (stock oil cooler lines) and using the OMP. I still have a vac leak its driving me nuts, its on the back of the engine, or under the UIM. So, trying to figure out where its at.
Thx in advance
Scott Smith

RETed

75psi is fricken kinda high at 1,500RPM.
It should be closer to 40psi, even with the street RB OPR.
Well, as long as it's not at "0"...


-Ted

DrifterRX

Well it came down, now its around 55ish at idle 750ish, and jumps up as you slowly depress the pedal.
I was looking at the engine and it seemed to me that the E shaft was wobbling off center like, could just have been my perception, or marks on the pullies, not sure, I am kinda worn out.
I also noticed that my engine isn't mounted exactly straight in there either, looks kinda crooked or something, I'll dl the pic from my camera and show you guys.

I know that the counter wieght on the E shaft is from an S4, and I was told that the flywheel I bought was from an s4 also, but I can't confirm this, so I was thinking, it there a way to visually tell if it was an s5? Besides the wieght difference is there any way to tell? I didn't wiegh it or anything so I can't say on what it was sitting at. What would be the signs of it being off balance? it idles fine and everything, starts a little hard but its a rebuild so......
I fixed my vac leak.
Thx
Scott Smith

RETed

If you ran the wrong counterweight, the engine would be noticable shaking and vibrating.

I think you just need some sleep.

Engine mounts are "keyed" with a bump on one side, so this needs to be spun until it fits in the slot correctly.


-Ted

DrifterRX

I noticed that the pass side mounting whole is L shaped, but the drivers side is just a hole, do I need to "bump" the engine until it comes out correctly? right now it looks like the pass side of the engine is tilted forward, last time I unbolted the mounts from brackets, it was harder to do that just getting under the car and just taking the rachet to the two lower nuts off.
When you say noticable? what do you mean by that? my engine always kind of bounced around a little, think my mounts are just getting old. (was going to get new ones, but ran out of budget). I've emptied the oil twice now and found no metal at all, I'm doing a deep drain right now, and then I just ran a quart threw it with the plug out just to make sure that anything in the pan would hopefully pour out with it then.
I'm really paroind right now, mabye I do need to sleep more.
Thx
Scott Smith

DrifterRX

Heres a pic of the engine in the bay, I've tried to get it to move but it wont..... I loosened the top of the mount also.

DrifterRX

Well, I got back to SD with no problems. However right after I unpacked everything I was checking under my hood with the engine running and I noticed that I had a vac leak again.... Ok, so I pulled the UIM off again, this time I traced the sound to the FPR, so I had an extra secondary rail sitting around and I replaced that. I also replaced my MAF with another one I had here at home, my idles is much smoother and more stable now. I then replaced the walbro with my stock pump as I don't have an aftermarket FPR and I know that it was making my car hard to start I also moved the FPR vac line to the top nipple on the back of the UIM.


So, now its doggy below 2k, and my lag is horrid, but when I hit around 2800-3000 rpms it takes off, I see 7psi of boost and my (narrow band) AFR gauge shows rich. If I keep it above 2k when I shift it runs awesome....
Also on my boost gauge it reads 10vac at idle? I thought it was supposed to read around 15 or so???? Am I miss informed here, and should I start looking for another vac leak?
Thx again.
Scott Smith

DrifterRX

Ok, so I checked the timing and its way off.... This is odd because I know that it was dead on before I left Iowa. I checked the resistance as per the FSM for my CAS and this is what I got 110-210 mine are 169.2 g1-g2 and 169.3 ne1-ne2. This is easily withing spec. So I decide that I would try and restab my CAS, didn't change anything, the timing it running 10-15 degrees advanced, and its outside the max range of motion for the CAS. Is this normal for a street ported engine? I can't imagine theres any way for the timing gear to slip without there being massive damage to the front of the E shaft. I pulled the top off my CAS when I restabbed to make sure that it didn't move at all.
Please this is driving me nuts.
Thx
Scott Smith

RETed

At what RPM are you checking the timing?
It has to be within Mazda specs - 750RPM + or - 50RPM - or else the timing will be off.


-Ted

DrifterRX

Eh, its around 750. I can't get it to idle nicely, its pulsing and I already checked my TPS and its in spec and adjusted correctly. I pulled my BAC off and cleaned it again but it didn't seem to help, it is also working correctly. Any ideas as to why its idling poorly? I don't have any vac leaks anymore so....
I'll try and idle it down then have someone hold it at 750 and then time it.
Thx

RETed

Um, depends on how high an RPM it cycles up to?
As a long shot, try and unplug the TPS to see if this helps...


-Ted

DrifterRX

It doesn't really pulse up so much as down, and then up to 750 again, as low as 400 rpms, then it shoots back up again. I'll try and unplug my TPS but its kind of under the intercooler, never tried to unplug it before so
I'm going to clean my MAF sensor, hoping that its dirty and that its causing my hesitation.
Thx for the help.
Scott Smith