i was wondering if it is possible to rebuild an engine that has over 180k miles on it.

Also the driveshaft needs to be replace and do u think that its gonna take along time before i place the new on. And u think its gonna be hecka hard to replace it?

 

Yes you can rebuild the motor with over 180k on it. But you may have to replace a few more things due to wear.

And the driveshaft all depends on how fast you work.

 

Replacing the driveshaft is pretty straight forward. If the seal in the tranny is shot it spews oil all over the place, and you'll have to refill the oil in the transmission, but other than that, it's pretty straight fowrad. It's possible to rebuild it, but you're going to want to make sure your housings and such are withing spec still and not worn too much.

 

do u think that the apex seals could be warn out bad?
how much do u think i would have to put in it to replace the drive shaft and rebuildin the engine

 

Basic rebuild is gonna run you around 300 bucks assuming you don't need any hard parts (housings, rotors, e-shaft)

Drive shaft is pretty easy to remove if you have custom exhaust and or have removed the heat shield which covers the rear flange of it. Once you get in there, its only 4 bolts and she pops right out.

 

you can get a used driveshaft for about $50, about an hour to install if all goes well. Engine rebuilds are a HELL of a lot more complicaed, and require a lot more money. Can't guess on their costs simply becaues you don't know what you'll need to replace. At least 1,300 or so.

 

well thanks for the tip about the driveshaft and the rebuildin an engine but does import shops rebuilds engines

 

most of them won't touch a rotary, but there are special rotor shops that will.

 

I wouldnt trust most shops with an engine... lots of places just arent qualified to do it.

 

How could you get away with it for only $300?
At 180k you should prepare for buying new housings, they are pretty well aged.

 

Well, it all depends, as I stated earlier, if you don't replace anything, it's pretty cheap. Start replacing apex seals/side seals/housings and it gets expensive REAL quick.

 

IF you dont replace anything, then what are you really doing? Not a rebuild, but more of a disassemble/clean/reassemble??

Minimum parts for a rebuild, even if you're a cheap ***, are what I do standard:

apex seals
gasket kit with coolant seals
oil o-rings (rubber only)
oil bypass pellet replacement

This stuff will run you around $450-550 depending on your source. Count on another $50-100 for cleaners and sealants, and that is about as cheap as I would try to get by.

 

dang thats stuff is pretty darn expensive.
Yea i figured that the seals will be the most expensive
where is a good place in the bay area to get a rebuild

 

I did mine for about 350-400 and that was with atkins apex seals and rebuild gasket set.

300 is possible if you can find a cheaper source of gaskets and or apex seals. Everything in my motor was within spec and I got my intermediate housing free. it had 123,060 on it when I cracked it open. Hardly a scratch along the apex tip seal edge and the housings were pretty damn smooth so I didn't bother running them through the lapping process. (which I can also do free)

You really have no way of knowing what that extra 50K is going to bring. Just have to get in there and find out. I could've re-used my apex seals had I wanted to.

 

stupid quest...
when rebuilding an engine does it make it like a whole new engine or just brings down the mileage so that your car last long

 

Depends on the condition of the Rotors, housings and endplates

 

like.... if the rotors are in good condition and the housing and endplates.
What will the rebuilt engine do?
Bring down the mileage to zero or just back down some so that itll last a bit more longer.

 

50,000 miles/depending on the parts. Are the in-spec or like new? There are a lot of variables here. Are you replacing ALL the seals or the bare bones min.?

 

i dont know yet ill have to check it out first before anything. I just asking around first before i do anything.

 

Just to clarify... When I say "within spec" I mean they were hardly worn to the point of being measurably used. I have no doubts that the lifespan of my oil control o-rings will determine the next time my engine is serviced. (as I didn't replace them) They too measured to be at tolerance but I have no way of knowing how long they'll hold out as they are still just used o-rings.

My engine was an experiment in many regards as I was new to rotaries and I was trying a new more aggressive port design which could've just as easily failed as well as it happend to succeed. I did the motor as best I sought fit and she's running like a champ once again. Keep in mind mine had a cracked water seal land on the iron and was not "blown" in most senses of the word.