Long story and the shitty experience I have had so far with this engine rebuild from what was rotary workz and now is JM Classic Imports but I have managed to get past all the **** ups SO FAR. Right now I am having a problem starting for the first time, I have done the unflooding procedure 6x to include spark plugs out and dried, EGI Fuse removed and cranking with pedal down and misting all the fuel out, and oil in hole to build compression. 6x so far and still nothing. Have tried just normal EGI out and pedal down with it. Still nothing. Any ideas?

 

You 'might' want to try 1 to 2 seconds of starter fluid sprayed into the intake duct w/the fuel pump disengaged (unplug it at the rear of the car or pull the Circuit Opening Relay found under the dash and to the right of the steering column which is quite easy to do). It's Yellow and Black w/five wires-three on the top row and two below it. If it starts up briefly then you know you have spark. If it does start you might want to do this two times over before attempting to start the car normally. If it does not fire up then check for spark as the CAS might not be set well or the AFM can be shorting out things.

And S4 or S5?

 

Sorry, S4 I believe, remember I didn't know because of s5 water temp sensor (could be replaced iron) and had s5 water pump (found out it definitely didnt belong there when coolant poured out of the bottom)

 

An S4 Boost Sensor has four wires. Brown/White wire is the Vref wire powering the engine sensors including the AFM. W/key to on it needs to read 5 volts. If it reads close to zero volts then the engine will not start.

 

I'm having the same problem with my rebuild. have spark, fuel, and timing set used ATF unflooding ect... been cranking and cranking like yourself so I came to the same conclusion about the motor not turning over fast enough to build compression. so heres what I'm going to do tomorrow "bump start" it using a tow rope and a chevy at 25 mph drop 2nd and see how that goes tomorrow so I'll let you know.

 

recheck the routing of your fuel injector wires to make they are going to the correct injector.

pin 3E-front primary injector (Lg) light green
pin 3C-rear primary injector (Lg/B) light green/black
pin 3H-front secondary injector (Lg/W) light green/White
pin 3F-rear secondary injector (Lg/R) light green/red

good luck!

 

oh check to see if your sparkplug wire go to the right coil. l1, l2, t1, t2

 

S4 na is it called a boost sensor n327? Cause I cant find a brown/white only blue two with red and a brown/black

 

Boost Sensor/Pressure Sensor same thing. Mounted to the passenger strut tower.

 

No brown/white wire.. brown/black maybe?

 

I had the problem of constant flooding on my FD to find a leaking injector that made a fuel puddle in the intake. Try turning the engine over with fuel pump unplugged and all plugs out till you no longer get fogging out of the block, while you are doing that recheck the timing and lay the plugs on a ground to confirm they all spark. After the block clears try restarting without letting the key sit on for longer than the 2 sec needed for rail priming

 

How many wires are there to the sensor and what are their specific colors?

 

4 wires. Red, red/blue, blue and brown/black

 

And so far wont start with fuel pump relay pulled using starting fluid

 

Those are not the factory wires.

 

So what do you suggest

 

Check the voltages on all four wires w/key to on and plug connected to sensor.

 

I just got a hold of a compression tester read 50 psi on 1st rotor and 0-5 psi on the 2nd rotor.

 

Low compression on a rebuild is normal until the apex seals break in, but that seems TOO low for a rebuilt engine, thats just my opinion, haven't rebuilt one yet

 

why yes, that is a bit low...

any decent rebuilt engine should have at bare minimum 85psi of compression cold and 0 miles on it.

 

Wont start using starting fluid. I quit. He sold me a blown motor.

 

If the car is mechanically OK, engine shows some compression, ignition is connected properly, fuel system works and it's just being a pain to start after a rebuild...

PUSH START. Push start it with another vehicle.

Time and time again I have seen people struggle for sometimes WEEKS trying to start a rebuild on new (or used) seals and worn housings, going through unflooding after unflooding, cursing the whole time. And then within 5 minutes I have the car running after pushing it with another vehicle.

 

i also would at least try to get it running first before calling it quits. towing can be a pain to set up but once you do it then a lot of problems either give a definite answer or the problems begin to fade away.

but paying a "professional" shop for an engine you would expect to not have to go to such extremes.

slow cranking speed is usually the main issue why most rebuilt engines won't initially start after fuel washing an engine. i'm still leary that the rear rotor won't wake up but you just never know. once the engine is running it will either break free and build compression or it never will.

 

Pull start it and see what happens!! I've had several cars where pulling it was the easiest way to get a flooded engine going. (spent hours with the standard procedures) and since it has cranked if somthing was wrong it most likely won't get any worse. (unless you have zero oil pressure or something)

 

Alright I shall do the final attempt. How fast and what gear? 2nd at 20mph or something?