Rebuild wont unflood / stop flooding on first start attempt
10-18-13, 08:11 PM
#1
Rebuild wont unflood / stop flooding on first start attempt
Long story and the shitty experience I have had so far with this engine rebuild from what was rotary workz and now is JM Classic Imports but I have managed to get past all the **** ups SO FAR. Right now I am having a problem starting for the first time, I have done the unflooding procedure 6x to include spark plugs out and dried, EGI Fuse removed and cranking with pedal down and misting all the fuel out, and oil in hole to build compression. 6x so far and still nothing. Have tried just normal EGI out and pedal down with it. Still nothing. Any ideas?
10-18-13, 08:50 PM
#2
You 'might' want to try 1 to 2 seconds of starter fluid sprayed into the intake duct w/the fuel pump disengaged (unplug it at the rear of the car or pull the Circuit Opening Relay found under the dash and to the right of the steering column which is quite easy to do). It's Yellow and Black w/five wires-three on the top row and two below it. If it starts up briefly then you know you have spark. If it does start you might want to do this two times over before attempting to start the car normally. If it does not fire up then check for spark as the CAS might not be set well or the AFM can be shorting out things.
And S4 or S5?
And S4 or S5?
Last edited by satch; 10-18-13 at 08:52 PM.
10-19-13, 12:32 AM
#5
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I'm having the same problem with my rebuild. have spark, fuel, and timing set used ATF unflooding ect... been cranking and cranking like yourself so I came to the same conclusion about the motor not turning over fast enough to build compression. so heres what I'm going to do tomorrow "bump start" it using a tow rope and a chevy at 25 mph drop 2nd and see how that goes tomorrow so I'll let you know.
10-19-13, 12:43 AM
#6
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recheck the routing of your fuel injector wires to make they are going to the correct injector.
pin 3E-front primary injector (Lg) light green
pin 3C-rear primary injector (Lg/B) light green/black
pin 3H-front secondary injector (Lg/W) light green/White
pin 3F-rear secondary injector (Lg/R) light green/red
good luck!
pin 3E-front primary injector (Lg) light green
pin 3C-rear primary injector (Lg/B) light green/black
pin 3H-front secondary injector (Lg/W) light green/White
pin 3F-rear secondary injector (Lg/R) light green/red
good luck!
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10-19-13, 01:46 PM
#11
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I had the problem of constant flooding on my FD to find a leaking injector that made a fuel puddle in the intake. Try turning the engine over with fuel pump unplugged and all plugs out till you no longer get fogging out of the block, while you are doing that recheck the timing and lay the plugs on a ground to confirm they all spark. After the block clears try restarting without letting the key sit on for longer than the 2 sec needed for rail priming
10-20-13, 09:59 AM
#22
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If the car is mechanically OK, engine shows some compression, ignition is connected properly, fuel system works and it's just being a pain to start after a rebuild...
PUSH START. Push start it with another vehicle.
Time and time again I have seen people struggle for sometimes WEEKS trying to start a rebuild on new (or used) seals and worn housings, going through unflooding after unflooding, cursing the whole time. And then within 5 minutes I have the car running after pushing it with another vehicle.
PUSH START. Push start it with another vehicle.
Time and time again I have seen people struggle for sometimes WEEKS trying to start a rebuild on new (or used) seals and worn housings, going through unflooding after unflooding, cursing the whole time. And then within 5 minutes I have the car running after pushing it with another vehicle.
10-20-13, 11:38 AM
#23
i also would at least try to get it running first before calling it quits. towing can be a pain to set up but once you do it then a lot of problems either give a definite answer or the problems begin to fade away.
but paying a "professional" shop for an engine you would expect to not have to go to such extremes.
slow cranking speed is usually the main issue why most rebuilt engines won't initially start after fuel washing an engine. i'm still leary that the rear rotor won't wake up but you just never know. once the engine is running it will either break free and build compression or it never will.
but paying a "professional" shop for an engine you would expect to not have to go to such extremes.
slow cranking speed is usually the main issue why most rebuilt engines won't initially start after fuel washing an engine. i'm still leary that the rear rotor won't wake up but you just never know. once the engine is running it will either break free and build compression or it never will.
10-21-13, 09:26 AM
#24
Pull start it and see what happens!! I've had several cars where pulling it was the easiest way to get a flooded engine going. (spent hours with the standard procedures) and since it has cranked if somthing was wrong it most likely won't get any worse. (unless you have zero oil pressure or something)