Rebuild wont unflood / stop flooding on first start attempt
10-21-13, 11:27 AM
#26
2nd at 25 mph, just let it drag until the car is running under it's own power and then use the throttle to keep the engine alive and check it for leaks.
try to run the engine for about 30 minutes, if after that the compression numbers don't improve then i would say it's a goner.
try to run the engine for about 30 minutes, if after that the compression numbers don't improve then i would say it's a goner.
10-21-13, 05:57 PM
#28
it should begin making oil pressure as soon as the engine is spinning, initially this may take a few seconds to prime. the oil pressure gauge wiring is problematic so it may mean nothing. if you want to be sure the engine is getting oil, crank the engine for a few seconds then spin the oil filter loose with a rag under it, if the filter is full of oil then it should be fine.
i've never had to pull a car for more than a few blocks so about a 1/4 mile should be sufficient, if it doesn't begin to catch and have something by then then i doubt it will.
i've never had to pull a car for more than a few blocks so about a 1/4 mile should be sufficient, if it doesn't begin to catch and have something by then then i doubt it will.
10-24-13, 07:24 PM
#34
Sorry to hear this.
Crisco.. that's interesting. Reminds me of people who use super glue. Bad news imo
Im curious what that does to the housings and seals if its hard enough to keep seals stuck then id assume its hard enough to damage the internals.
I personally use petro jelly it not only works good for assembly but it also lubes....things...... lol
Crisco.. that's interesting. Reminds me of people who use super glue. Bad news imo
Im curious what that does to the housings and seals if its hard enough to keep seals stuck then id assume its hard enough to damage the internals.
I personally use petro jelly it not only works good for assembly but it also lubes....things...... lol
10-24-13, 08:01 PM
#35
there's nothing wrong with super glue on the seals, the factory even does it. it's not hard enough to cause any damage to metal parts.
i've even thought about using that technique again, after some other posters mentioned chopping the small seal and the possibility of losing it during assembly.
i've even thought about using that technique again, after some other posters mentioned chopping the small seal and the possibility of losing it during assembly.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-24-13 at 08:03 PM.
10-24-13, 08:08 PM
#36
the mazda engine manuals list vaseline or a petrolatum product to be used to hold the sealing o-rings in place... the Mazda listed products are petroleum based jellies, were as Crisco is a vegetable based product and breaks down over time and with heat (becomes rancid or rotten), and can create unfairable byproducts held in the o-ring grooves
.... Crisco = bad
.... Crisco = bad
10-24-13, 08:27 PM
#37
3 tubs of vaseline or a big tub of crisco= $10.
i suppose he chose the crisco so he could make fries with afterwards.
the smell is awful as well, handling lard.. it would probably eventually make me sick, where the vaseline i use is coconut odored.
i suppose he chose the crisco so he could make fries with afterwards.
the smell is awful as well, handling lard.. it would probably eventually make me sick, where the vaseline i use is coconut odored.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-24-13 at 08:29 PM.
10-24-13, 08:46 PM
#38
Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
there's nothing wrong with super glue on the seals, the factory even does it. it's not hard enough to cause any damage to metal parts.
i've even thought about using that technique again, after some other posters mentioned chopping the small seal and the possibility of losing it during assembly.
i've even thought about using that technique again, after some other posters mentioned chopping the small seal and the possibility of losing it during assembly.
10-24-13, 08:54 PM
#39
I use a red wheel bearing grease these days to hold coolant seals in place. Also for corner seals so they don't get uppity. The grease is a clear red tinted sticky goo that doesn't appear to have solids and I've built several engines with it and they all turned out fine. It smells ok too.
I used vaseline back in my early days of engine assembly but found out it doesn't really lube the things I needed it to lube. Then one of the black coolant seals grew and jumped out of its groove during assembly, getting crushed, unbeknownst to me. Got the engine in the car, added oil and coolant, noticed a trickle between the intermediate plate and housing down low on the spark plug side. It was an engine for my brother's RX-4 and he looked just as crushed as the coolant seal turned out to be. Cost was four black coolant seals and 18 tension bolt washers to fix. Oh and time. This is when I made the switch to wheel bearing grease.
I used vaseline back in my early days of engine assembly but found out it doesn't really lube the things I needed it to lube. Then one of the black coolant seals grew and jumped out of its groove during assembly, getting crushed, unbeknownst to me. Got the engine in the car, added oil and coolant, noticed a trickle between the intermediate plate and housing down low on the spark plug side. It was an engine for my brother's RX-4 and he looked just as crushed as the coolant seal turned out to be. Cost was four black coolant seals and 18 tension bolt washers to fix. Oh and time. This is when I made the switch to wheel bearing grease.
10-24-13, 09:06 PM
#40
fortunately i don't use OEM coolant seals any longer, but i did notice they would absorb just about anything including air and begin swelling as soon as you take them out of the package... just kidding but sort of not, they would probably absorb spit if you were so inclined.
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