Fleemer

I'm still looking at both.

I'm even looking at a REW build too.

But as far as simplicity goes I'd rather go with either a 13bt or 13b-RE

I have a microtech lt10s and supporting mods. My goal is to have a ~400rwhp street car. So street ported, low boost around town adn high boost for the ~400 mark.

I guess I'm trying to figure out whether I should get a 13b-re or mod my s5keg. I know the ports on a RE are huge compared to an s5, but since both will be ported will it matter?

Is the 13b-re nearly indentical to the REW as far as internals? Or is it more like a 13bt?

Just looking for some insight. IF it isn't worth the extra $ to get the 13b-re i'll just stick with my motor and port the crap out of is and used the saved up $ for other fun things.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Trust me, you will be better off putting more money into good turbo parts (turbo itself, manifold, wastegate, injectors, with tuning on top of it) than throwing a bunch of time and trouble into doing an RE or REW swap only to cut corners later. This is assuming you have a budget of say $5k max.

Think of it this way: a good turbo setup can make up for limitations in the motor (intake manifolds and ports) much more easily than a good motor can make up for limitations in the turbo and supporting mods. You can have the ginormous RE ports and manifolds but if your turbo can't flow easily flow the air you want then you still have an uphill climb to make power reliably. You can drop in a street ported REW--but if you don't have the right turbo, a reliable manifold, safe tuning, good intercooler, etc than what's the point.

If money and time aren't an object then go all out with an RE (if you don't mind having an engine with limited part availability) or REW.

Fleemer

Thanks for responding and making alot of good points.

I think my worry here is just having a motor that when I have all said mods in then end, that i'll be 'unhappy'

I'm considering even a half bridge but would more then likely keep it an s5.

I guess I'm mostly asking what the extra cost/benefits is from going with an RE then sticking with a ported S5. If lik you said, I can make up for it by getting an awesome turbo setup etc, then I may just scrap the RE idea and rebuild my motor. I'm even considering half bridging it since it is a 'weekend warrior/grocery getter' :P

Snaple07

iTrader: (17)

I've had the same exact thoughts as you when I bought my car with no engine. There really isn't room for any kind of half-***'d parts or anything...you'll end up regretting what you did. But then again, bought most of my parts used...and what I ended up doing was cleaning and rebuilding those parts, not to mention, custom mods and have still yet to see them fail. Many of the parts I have bought used were luckily not bashed up as many people think. You'll be surprised at how well used parts work, but keep in mind...not everyone is lucky.

read up on the half bridge vs. full bridge thread, your choice is what I consider the best choice.

This is what I read off of rotaryheads.com

half bridge = Brap brap brap… but still streetable (depending on your idea of what streetable is). Brappy idle between 1200 and 1400, vacuum signal deteriorates quite a bit.. gas mileage goes downhill, big top end power though. Stand alone engine management mandatory!

half bridge v2/extended = BRAP BRAP BRAP …a more extreme version where the rotor housings themselves are notched to facilitate better flow. Idle @ 1500-1600 rpm, vacuum signal is about non-existent. Don’t even think about commuting with it as massive overlap is a problem from the large bridge porting. Definitely requires the use of a standalone EMS and upgraded primary and secondary injectors. Street trips are possible, but drivability is definitely effected.

full bridge port = Same as half bridgeport v2/extended except bridged on the primaries as well… race only!



I currently have this setup going...around 15 psi 340 ish, 19 psi I have around 410hp

J-spec S5 13BT
*stock ports
*throttle body mod/ port polished and knifed
*block off plates/ running premix
*ford generic idle control valve
*emissions deleted
*Master Power T61 (70mm inducer with .58 a/r turbine housing)
*ss turbo manifold
*3" turbo back exhaust/ glasspack/ dynoflow muffler
*TII transmission and drivetrain

Electronics
*MegaSquirt II v3.0 with harness
*electronic boost controller
*AFX wideband controller
*stock coil packs/modded a little
*stock CAS

fuel delivery
*Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump
*Aeromotive FPR
*6AN/8AN SS Braided fuel lines with fittings
*SS replacement screw in fuel filter
*1200cc secondaries/ 850cc primaries
*Custom Aluminum fuel rails
*sump pan welded to stock fuel tank

not to mention plenty of other mods too
*p/s rack modded to manual steering rack
*dual alternator pulley
*short shifter
*deleted a/c
etc

I've spent around 7k on everything including my car + shipped engine + parts that I put in.
so to each their own, do what you feel is right and don't regret your decisions or else it will just eat away at your mind.

Best of Luck


-Matt