Is this a 13BT?
If you're running the stock ECU, don't **** with the ignition timing - set it to stock.


-Ted

 

i had it rebuilt so maybe the rebuilder put it in wrong....gotta check that

 

awesome! thanks RXSevenSymphonies thats an awesome writeup.

Whats should I do about my SAFC-2 problem? At 100% it's only reading about 39%...but before i attenpted starting it, it worked fine, worked awesome actually

 

Ok...so I fixed the timing...which was wayyy fucked up....and I got the SAFC to work...still no starting....when I crank it, it cranks really smooth and about every 4 or 5 rotations it kicks but not hard enough to get it to start...I think i have bad gas in it, it's got about half a tank of about six month old gas...(i know im a ****)...but shouldn't it kick over and run anyways?...i'm gonna pump that out and put some fresh 93 in there...ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS?

 

try using 87. fires easier than 93.

 

my SAFC is being stupid again!!

 

I'm not finding yellow and red marks....any other references i can use? how do I find "Top dead center"?

 

How to find TDC:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=296837

 

nope....not my problem......my CAS isnt getting pwer to any of the wires....could this be a problem? also it sounds like my fuel pump is constantly running and is making my injectors leak because there is a hissing sound from the fuel rail, but if i unplug the fuel pump connector, the hissing goes away.....and this is like 5 mins of the key being on....

 

anybody have any ideas? i wanna get this thing running again...

 

I can't think of anything else at the moment. The car shouldn't even start without the CAS working and i don't think the fuel pump running all the time would make the car die, and I'm not sure about the hissing noise.. is the car still starting and stalling after a few seconds or doing different stuff now? I'd go through the troubleshooting guide in the FSM and double check everything.

 

It just cranks and cranks now....no start at all.....it don't even want to start now....just tons of cranking and alot of fuel smell

 

my car has the fuel pump connected, so that its on as long as the key is on. No problem starting the car, none at all. You should try to push start the car...

 

Have you tried unflooding it then?

 

Replace spark plugs, my car didnt run i cranked and cranked and nothing and replaced plugs and bam fired right up, i think they faul out after being flooded so many times, even when they were out they got spark but i dont think it was enough once it was in the housing

 

ive been rotating between 3 sets of plugs

yes i have unflooded it

 

dude sounds like a vacuum leak to me i mean on my turboII i was so lost i couldnt figure out why the hell the car would start but then die and then after that wouldnt start well i found out that my intake gasket was put upside down so i had a massive air leak all i can say is check over the vacuum lines and see....
TwEaK

 

well I only have 4 vacuum lines left, because I removed the rats nest...but I'm gonna take off the intake to check for leaking injectors so I'll check my gasket as well...should I put silicone on it for reinforcement?

 

ok...I checked the crank sensor and the coils as per my Haynes manual:

"Measure resistance between the G1 and G2 terminals, and between the Ne1 and Ne2 terminals...resistance should be between 110 and 210 ohms"

I am reading about 75-80 ohms between these terminals

"Measure the resistance between the primary terminals of the coils...resistance should be between .2 and 1 ohm"

I am reading 0.0 ohms on all coils

 

I just checked my extra coils and crank sensor and I'm getting the same values...they have to be good right?

 

im not shure with the coils but yes if you just put the gasket on and easy for you to remove the lIM gasket just put a little of rtv around both sides of the gasket and place it back after youve dont everything wait like 20 to 30min for it to dry and youll be fine
TwEaK

 

Try checking for spark. If no spark-then it is plug-wires-coil-cas-or wiring harness problem. IF there is spark and fuel than it is compression problem, especially if the rebuilder used old parts with new seals, you will have low compression. If you have fuel then you are probably flooded at that point, flush the fuel out-put new spark plugs, and put some atf fluid in each housing to build compression should start at that point. Don't use old spark plugs at all your just beating a dead cat, if you are using old spark plugs go out and buy you some brand new ones. Believe me your car won't start if your plugs are fouled, I don't care how many times you clean them.

 

[QUOTE=WannaSeeMyWankel]now as far as the timing goes....obviously i can't hit it with the timing light till i get it stable, what should i do? just mess with the crank sensor while someone cranks it over till it idles?[/QUOTE


No, the timing is retarded during STARTING.

Pull the CAS. Align the pulley and fixed pointer. Aligh the marks on the bottom of the CAS. Look in the top of the CAS. After installing the CAS the top parts should be in the same position. If not, then rotate the body til the top parts are as you viewed them before installing the CAS.

 

There is no output to the CAS from the ECU. It works the other way around.

Since you've had your CAS out before, do this: pull the CAS but leave the connector attached to it. Turn the key to ON. Pull the LEAD wires just out of the LEAD coil assy, and rest them just at the wire hole on the coil. Spin the CAS. You should see a large spark at the plug wires just at the LEAD coil assy and also if you listen carefully, you should hear the injectors clicking as you turn the cas lower gear.

If that happens, then your problem is not electrical. You saw the spark, heard the injectors click and you know how to install a CAS. So reinstall it.

The car is simply flooded. Remove the fuel pump connector. Spin the engine for say ten to fifteen seconds. Spray starter fluid into the airfilter for no more than two seconds. Try to start the car. It should start for a moment. Repeat the process a couple of time. Then one more time but this time with someone to immediatley reattach the fuel pump plug just as the engine starts up.

Extremley flooded cars might require some motor oil to be put in the rotor chambers. Any way you want will do. Then do the process again.

 

I thought about the CAS only being an output before, but then I looked in the FSM at how it says with key on engine off you should see below 1.0v at each terminal, whats the deal behind that?

edit-oh ok so they're saying just like the o2 sensor creating its own voltage only up to 1.0v max the cas should only output 1.0v max