rebuild with start up smoke?
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rebuild with start up smoke?
So I recently had my engine rebuilt(2k) and when I start the car it will start up and then shut right off. I had the cold start removed as well as the emissions rack, PS,AC,AP,ACV,OMP was taken off but still hooked up(premixing)
If I give the car gas it will stay running. It kinda sputters a bit till it starts to warm up and when it does this there is smoke coming from the exhaust. It only does this when the engine is fully cooled.
Also I did notice last night when I shifted after a decent acceleration there was a small cloud of smoke also. I know that I am running pig rich(safe mode) until I can get it into the shop for tunning. Just for the record I have an 89T2
Any ideas or thoughts as to what the mysterious smoke might be?
Thanks,
Josh
If I give the car gas it will stay running. It kinda sputters a bit till it starts to warm up and when it does this there is smoke coming from the exhaust. It only does this when the engine is fully cooled.
Also I did notice last night when I shifted after a decent acceleration there was a small cloud of smoke also. I know that I am running pig rich(safe mode) until I can get it into the shop for tunning. Just for the record I have an 89T2
Any ideas or thoughts as to what the mysterious smoke might be?
Thanks,
Josh
Last edited by gz91rx7; 06-13-04 at 05:57 PM.
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It sounds like you have nothing left to control the idle, which is why it shuts down unless goosed (BAC still there?)...Depending on housings, rebuild kit used, you might still be considered in the "break-in" phase, although by 2K you'd think the idle would at least sustain itself...Black smoke would be indicative of "pig-rich", or is it white?
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BAC is gone. the housing were in great shape! I sent it down to Kevin@RR. Well the bumper is f-in black next to my greddy dual PE's. The smoke itself is maybe greyish. Its kinda hard for me to tell. I can say that when I start the car there is some small black drops that come from the exhaust which I assume is fuel.
On the highway the other day not even really getting on the gas heavy at all, my buddie who was behind me said I was shooting flames. Its next to be dyno tuned(with wideband) now that the break-in is completed. So hopefully that will cure most of the issues.
On the highway the other day not even really getting on the gas heavy at all, my buddie who was behind me said I was shooting flames. Its next to be dyno tuned(with wideband) now that the break-in is completed. So hopefully that will cure most of the issues.
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When you remove emissions and the coolant lines to the TB (what you got done) you have your idle set up for when warm...so when cold, you have to keep your foot on it for a few seconds until it runs by itself. I believe we went over this. This is controlled by the coolant lines and thermowax which are gone...you can put them back on if you want, with some work.
Any rotary...new, rebuilt, worn out, whatever, should smoke on cold startup a bit. This is due to the design of the engine. I've never seen a rotary that didnt. The rotors are hollow, and filled with oil. The oil rings/irons maintain a seal while moving most of the time, so the oil gets retained, even when it gets hot and thin. When you shut the engine down, a little of this oil drains down very slowly and pools up in the combustion chamber. It is the effect of gravity over time, and the oil seals (while not in motion) not making a full seal that allow this.
Yes, his housings looked near new. HE should be well out of breakin by now...it has done about all it's gonna do. Still, that has nothing to do with being rich (though you may wanna change plugs in the meantime, breakin is hard on plugs) nor with not running when cold due to a lack of emissions/idle controls.
Any rotary...new, rebuilt, worn out, whatever, should smoke on cold startup a bit. This is due to the design of the engine. I've never seen a rotary that didnt. The rotors are hollow, and filled with oil. The oil rings/irons maintain a seal while moving most of the time, so the oil gets retained, even when it gets hot and thin. When you shut the engine down, a little of this oil drains down very slowly and pools up in the combustion chamber. It is the effect of gravity over time, and the oil seals (while not in motion) not making a full seal that allow this.
Yes, his housings looked near new. HE should be well out of breakin by now...it has done about all it's gonna do. Still, that has nothing to do with being rich (though you may wanna change plugs in the meantime, breakin is hard on plugs) nor with not running when cold due to a lack of emissions/idle controls.
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Hey Kevin, thanks. I was just curious. And yes I am deffinitly out of the break in. And just as a side note I found that damn noise. It was the wastegate actuator rod. Well not really the rod but, the small piece that is attached to the wastegate that the rod attaches to. That was rattling against the wastegate.
Still isnt fixed.......... I am kinda not looking forward to it because of how much of a pain you had with it I could imagine that it would be that much harder for me.
Also......while trying to figure out what the noise was I checked the turbo for shaft play and it has some so I am kinda thinking that while the turbo is off why not replace it.
And I have a small oil leak on the drivers side rear of the engine compartment. It seems like it is coming out near the Oil pressure sending unit. (I think thats what its called)It has the yellow/red wire that goes to the gauge. Anyways it seems to come from there and also from the rear or the oil pan. I found a few bolts on the oil pan that took a few quarter turns. So I think that cleared that up but it still has a small leak like I said near the drivers side rear of the engine. Nothing major but something that I keep close tabs on, till I can find the damn leak.
Otherwise the engine is great!! Runs super smooth! Other than the somewhat jumpy idle(damn tps). But I ordered a new TPS so that should take care of that.
But I would like to thank you again! Great work!!
Still isnt fixed.......... I am kinda not looking forward to it because of how much of a pain you had with it I could imagine that it would be that much harder for me.
Also......while trying to figure out what the noise was I checked the turbo for shaft play and it has some so I am kinda thinking that while the turbo is off why not replace it.
And I have a small oil leak on the drivers side rear of the engine compartment. It seems like it is coming out near the Oil pressure sending unit. (I think thats what its called)It has the yellow/red wire that goes to the gauge. Anyways it seems to come from there and also from the rear or the oil pan. I found a few bolts on the oil pan that took a few quarter turns. So I think that cleared that up but it still has a small leak like I said near the drivers side rear of the engine. Nothing major but something that I keep close tabs on, till I can find the damn leak.
Otherwise the engine is great!! Runs super smooth! Other than the somewhat jumpy idle(damn tps). But I ordered a new TPS so that should take care of that.
But I would like to thank you again! Great work!!
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Ok thats cool, I never noticed really because I normally just sit in my car while it warms up. But I forgot something in my house and I ran in real quick and when I came out, I was like "WTF". It was my first thought after the last two 7's I have had needed rebuilds due to coolant seal problems. So that is the first thing I think of when I see smoke!
Thanks for clearing that up though.
Thanks for clearing that up though.
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And just as a side note I found that damn noise. It was the wastegate actuator rod.
I am kinda not looking forward to it because of how much of a pain you had with it I could imagine that it would be that much harder for me.
I checked the turbo for shaft play and it has some so I am kinda thinking that while the turbo is off why not replace it.
It seems like it is coming out near the Oil pressure sending unit. (I think thats what its called)It has the yellow/red wire that goes to the gauge.
I found a few bolts on the oil pan that took a few quarter turns. So I think that cleared that up
But I would like to thank you again! Great work!!
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well I cleaned the silver pan that covers everything on the underside of the car and it slowy has gotten more oil on it. And it flows down near the larger bolt the has the line that goes to the oil cooler. And it is kinda wet near the oil pressure sending unit. And it looks like it flows down from there.
I also thought it was the filter so I went out and bought a new one! Not the problem Either way it has great oil pressure. The leak is small. And since I just bought a new daily/winter car (93 lexus sc400) , I will have more time to put the car up and find it.
I also thought it was the filter so I went out and bought a new one! Not the problem Either way it has great oil pressure. The leak is small. And since I just bought a new daily/winter car (93 lexus sc400) , I will have more time to put the car up and find it.
#10
just give the oil sending unit a little twist..if it is loose it can leak....if you can move it with yoru hand then that coudl be oen source of problem...since it does see 70psi of pressure there
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