rebuild my own engine??
02-08-04, 10:56 PM
#1
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,790
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
rebuild my own engine??
Well i currently have a n/a and can get my hands on a turbo engine but i need to rebuild it. I have never taken apart a rotary so i am not sure if i will have the skills to rebuild it. I have the time, and have a friend who used to rebuild rx7 engines for a living who can help me if i get stuck.
1.any how to rebuild sites??
2.aprox time needed?
3.think i am capable?
1.any how to rebuild sites??
2.aprox time needed?
3.think i am capable?
02-08-04, 10:59 PM
#2
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,790
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i think i have most tools needed...if not i have acces to them....its not so much that i cant afford to pay someone to do it as i want the pride in doing it myself
02-08-04, 11:27 PM
#3
Locust of the apocalypse
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Directly above the center of the earth (York, PA)
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
You go on with your bad self....
It aint that bad... look up Zkeller in the members list and PM him.... He's rebuilt a few and we are about to do mine.
Get the Rebuild video from rotaryaviation.com.. They also sell engine kits and all their kits use third gen corner seal springs. they also have a new Apex seal that is quite bitchin!
It aint that bad... look up Zkeller in the members list and PM him.... He's rebuilt a few and we are about to do mine.
Get the Rebuild video from rotaryaviation.com.. They also sell engine kits and all their kits use third gen corner seal springs. they also have a new Apex seal that is quite bitchin!
02-08-04, 11:27 PM
#4
Locust of the apocalypse
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Directly above the center of the earth (York, PA)
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
You go on with your bad self....
It aint that bad... look up Zkeller in the members list and PM him.... He's rebuilt a few and we are about to do mine.
Get the Rebuild video from rotaryaviation.com.. They also sell engine overhaul kits and all their kits use third gen corner seal springs. they also have a new Apex seal that is quite bitchin!
It aint that bad... look up Zkeller in the members list and PM him.... He's rebuilt a few and we are about to do mine.
Get the Rebuild video from rotaryaviation.com.. They also sell engine overhaul kits and all their kits use third gen corner seal springs. they also have a new Apex seal that is quite bitchin!
02-09-04, 12:39 PM
#7
I came, I saw, I boosted.
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,921
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just did one a little while ago.
They keys here are:
CLEAN- make sure the seals are clean, everything is clean- no dirt or anything on any of the seals.
ORGANIZED- Lot's of little peices for the seals- that's about all.
PAY ATTENTION/INSPECT- inspect EVERY seal for wear- rubber and metal. Be meticulous. This is wear the quality of the rebuild shows through, on how good the parts are.
DON'T COMPROMISE-If you suspect a seal or somponent of being bad REPLACE IT, don't make-do to save 30 bucks, only to spend 20 hours and have a smoking engine thats buring oil and milkshaking your coolant. Makes sure ALL the seals move smoothly withuot sticking- if they stick, emory paper the seals and groves/bores.
Anybody can rebuild one of these engines- it's easy, but it takes PROPER PROCEDURE to have one that doesn't leak, and gets good compression.
Buy everything you need in terms of sealant and chemicals. You will need kerosene, carb cleaner, loc-tite, and hylomar sealent.
Always make sure the unprotected metal parts have a little bit of oil or WD-40 on them, especailly after you clean them, because they will start to rust practically overnight. Use a lttle bit everything when assembling- the oil inside will help build compression for the initial start as well as preventing corrosion.
Rust=bad.
The Hayes manual is what I used for rebuild... and a few things I should note that aren't in there- (The the FSM has it)
Use loctite on the flywheel nut and the front pulley bolt!!!
Leave the front cover for last. Once the engine is assembled, and the is on, rest the engine on it's back (vertically on the flywheel)to assemble the front cover/bearing components. Once flipped, don't move the engine till you have assembled the front beaing components AND tightened the front pulley bolt. The prevents the shaft from sliding backwards, the specer slipping out of place, and pinching the front needle bearing when you tighten the
front bolt.
They keys here are:
CLEAN- make sure the seals are clean, everything is clean- no dirt or anything on any of the seals.
ORGANIZED- Lot's of little peices for the seals- that's about all.
PAY ATTENTION/INSPECT- inspect EVERY seal for wear- rubber and metal. Be meticulous. This is wear the quality of the rebuild shows through, on how good the parts are.
DON'T COMPROMISE-If you suspect a seal or somponent of being bad REPLACE IT, don't make-do to save 30 bucks, only to spend 20 hours and have a smoking engine thats buring oil and milkshaking your coolant. Makes sure ALL the seals move smoothly withuot sticking- if they stick, emory paper the seals and groves/bores.
Anybody can rebuild one of these engines- it's easy, but it takes PROPER PROCEDURE to have one that doesn't leak, and gets good compression.
Buy everything you need in terms of sealant and chemicals. You will need kerosene, carb cleaner, loc-tite, and hylomar sealent.
Always make sure the unprotected metal parts have a little bit of oil or WD-40 on them, especailly after you clean them, because they will start to rust practically overnight. Use a lttle bit everything when assembling- the oil inside will help build compression for the initial start as well as preventing corrosion.
Rust=bad.
The Hayes manual is what I used for rebuild... and a few things I should note that aren't in there- (The the FSM has it)
Use loctite on the flywheel nut and the front pulley bolt!!!
Leave the front cover for last. Once the engine is assembled, and the is on, rest the engine on it's back (vertically on the flywheel)to assemble the front cover/bearing components. Once flipped, don't move the engine till you have assembled the front beaing components AND tightened the front pulley bolt. The prevents the shaft from sliding backwards, the specer slipping out of place, and pinching the front needle bearing when you tighten the
front bolt.
Last edited by Bambam7; 02-09-04 at 12:44 PM.
Trending Topics
02-10-04, 12:55 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Aurora, IL and Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 376
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Bambam7
I just did one a little while ago.
They keys here are:
CLEAN- make sure the seals are clean, everything is clean- no dirt or anything on any of the seals.
ORGANIZED- Lot's of little peices for the seals- that's about all.
PAY ATTENTION/INSPECT- inspect EVERY seal for wear- rubber and metal. Be meticulous. This is wear the quality of the rebuild shows through, on how good the parts are.
DON'T COMPROMISE-If you suspect a seal or somponent of being bad REPLACE IT, don't make-do to save 30 bucks, only to spend 20 hours and have a smoking engine thats buring oil and milkshaking your coolant. Makes sure ALL the seals move smoothly withuot sticking- if they stick, emory paper the seals and groves/bores.
Anybody can rebuild one of these engines- it's easy, but it takes PROPER PROCEDURE to have one that doesn't leak, and gets good compression.
Buy everything you need in terms of sealant and chemicals. You will need kerosene, carb cleaner, loc-tite, and hylomar sealent.
Always make sure the unprotected metal parts have a little bit of oil or WD-40 on them, especailly after you clean them, because they will start to rust practically overnight. Use a lttle bit everything when assembling- the oil inside will help build compression for the initial start as well as preventing corrosion.
Rust=bad.
The Hayes manual is what I used for rebuild... and a few things I should note that aren't in there- (The the FSM has it)
Use loctite on the flywheel nut and the front pulley bolt!!!
Leave the front cover for last. Once the engine is assembled, and the is on, rest the engine on it's back (vertically on the flywheel)to assemble the front cover/bearing components. Once flipped, don't move the engine till you have assembled the front beaing components AND tightened the front pulley bolt. The prevents the shaft from sliding backwards, the specer slipping out of place, and pinching the front needle bearing when you tighten the
front bolt.
I just did one a little while ago.
They keys here are:
CLEAN- make sure the seals are clean, everything is clean- no dirt or anything on any of the seals.
ORGANIZED- Lot's of little peices for the seals- that's about all.
PAY ATTENTION/INSPECT- inspect EVERY seal for wear- rubber and metal. Be meticulous. This is wear the quality of the rebuild shows through, on how good the parts are.
DON'T COMPROMISE-If you suspect a seal or somponent of being bad REPLACE IT, don't make-do to save 30 bucks, only to spend 20 hours and have a smoking engine thats buring oil and milkshaking your coolant. Makes sure ALL the seals move smoothly withuot sticking- if they stick, emory paper the seals and groves/bores.
Anybody can rebuild one of these engines- it's easy, but it takes PROPER PROCEDURE to have one that doesn't leak, and gets good compression.
Buy everything you need in terms of sealant and chemicals. You will need kerosene, carb cleaner, loc-tite, and hylomar sealent.
Always make sure the unprotected metal parts have a little bit of oil or WD-40 on them, especailly after you clean them, because they will start to rust practically overnight. Use a lttle bit everything when assembling- the oil inside will help build compression for the initial start as well as preventing corrosion.
Rust=bad.
The Hayes manual is what I used for rebuild... and a few things I should note that aren't in there- (The the FSM has it)
Use loctite on the flywheel nut and the front pulley bolt!!!
Leave the front cover for last. Once the engine is assembled, and the is on, rest the engine on it's back (vertically on the flywheel)to assemble the front cover/bearing components. Once flipped, don't move the engine till you have assembled the front beaing components AND tightened the front pulley bolt. The prevents the shaft from sliding backwards, the specer slipping out of place, and pinching the front needle bearing when you tighten the
front bolt.
man he answered you. This is everything you need. The only other thing is that I would do is buy the rebuild video from atkins. It will help you alot.
02-10-04, 01:09 PM
#13
go and download the factory service manual at fc3s.org or http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/2nd_gen_manuals.htm
Look at the engine one and the tools section then you will know all the tools require... or suggested to rebuild an engine! it is the best... you would be best to get a video for a rebuild from atkins. Very good video well worth the money! leaves you good pointers.. most importantly about rebuilding your own engine is to spec every part to factory specs they were drawn up like that for a reason.
It isn't very difficult but you do have to pay attention and spec everything this is very important.
Look at the engine one and the tools section then you will know all the tools require... or suggested to rebuild an engine! it is the best... you would be best to get a video for a rebuild from atkins. Very good video well worth the money! leaves you good pointers.. most importantly about rebuilding your own engine is to spec every part to factory specs they were drawn up like that for a reason.
It isn't very difficult but you do have to pay attention and spec everything this is very important.
02-10-04, 02:31 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Delaware
Posts: 659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by BigTone
And if you dont know if you want to rebuild it yourself, I would say buy the video, watch it and then decide.
And if you dont know if you want to rebuild it yourself, I would say buy the video, watch it and then decide.
!
helpfull
02-10-04, 03:51 PM
#16
I came, I saw, I boosted.
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,921
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tools??? Nothing but a simple socket/wrench set, a few ilttle things for cleaning, like a brush, maybe a scribe or pick to lift out any frozen seals.
You'll need a big socket for the flywheel nut (can't remember size off by heart- use the search button)
Easiest to remove it with an impact gun. I just threw the engine in the back of the minivan, drove to the nearest garage, and asked to use their impact gun for a minute- just hooked it up to the air line outisde. You'll have to buy the socket though- no garage will have it.
You may need to use the impact at the same time to remove the front pulley bolt- it's ON there!
Then, you'll need a mini sledge to remove the flywheel... just wedge a chisel, or anything solid (wrench, etc) between the flywheel and engine, give the eshaft a few good punds with hte hammer (using a block of plastic or aluminum of course to prevent damage to the threads)
The flywheel will pop right off.
You don't need an engine stand, but anything to keep the engine elevated a little bit, or a few blocks of wood to keep it balanced in different positions is a great strees reducer!
Good luck.
You'll need a big socket for the flywheel nut (can't remember size off by heart- use the search button)
Easiest to remove it with an impact gun. I just threw the engine in the back of the minivan, drove to the nearest garage, and asked to use their impact gun for a minute- just hooked it up to the air line outisde. You'll have to buy the socket though- no garage will have it.
You may need to use the impact at the same time to remove the front pulley bolt- it's ON there!
Then, you'll need a mini sledge to remove the flywheel... just wedge a chisel, or anything solid (wrench, etc) between the flywheel and engine, give the eshaft a few good punds with hte hammer (using a block of plastic or aluminum of course to prevent damage to the threads)
The flywheel will pop right off.
You don't need an engine stand, but anything to keep the engine elevated a little bit, or a few blocks of wood to keep it balanced in different positions is a great strees reducer!
Good luck.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post