EnjoiPugs

The engine is back in the car and everything is hooked up except there are four more things I need help with still. My camera battery is dead, but I will upload pictures tomorrow when the sun comes up and it is charged for anything that needs pics. Thanks for advice and if there is anything else you want to say about starting up a rebuild I would appreciate it, since this is my first one!

There's a vacuum line I don't know where it goes to. It's a metal tube coming away from the firewall. I can't remember for sure, but it leads to the passenger side and then there is a vacuum hose but I don't know where to connect it.

There is a green plug near the air box, near the passenger strut tower. I labeled it o2, which is so confusing, because I think I have the o2 sensor hooked up correctly already and this plug doesn't look like that one.

For the spark plugs is the front rotor number one or number two? And I have br8eq plugs. What's the difference between the bur*eq and the br*eq. And should I really use colder plugs for the leading or can I get away with the br8eq all around?

I blocked off the OMP. The car has a little less than 1/4 tank of gas. I bought valvoline 2 cycle oil. It's all gas in the car still though. What's the best way to mix the oil with the gas for the first time? I didn't know I was going premix or I would have done it the last time I put gas in the car.

EnjoiPugs

And there is a wire near the spark plugs. It's very small in gauge and is yellow with red on it. I didn't label, which means it probably wasn't hooked up to anything. I'll get a pic of it tomorrow though.

And on top of the transmission is something that looks like the bolt you use to bleed your brakes. I was just wondering what that's for?

Thanks again.

smokie

iTrader: (5)

first of all is it an n/a car or turbo....second the front rotor is number one and the back is number two...and as for the spark plugs bur8eq are rx8 plugs i believe you want bur7eq and bur9eq

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

vacuum hose on the firewall pass. side is brake booster, hook it up

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

oil pressure wire connect to oil pressure sensor on the rear iron driver side , on top..

theres another one right next to it which is water temp sesnor, to the left of oilpressure

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

The thing on the trans is the slave cylinder, it releases your clutch.

EnjoiPugs

I have the oil pressure wire hooked up. I'm not sure where the water temp sensor goes. It's near the oil pressure sensor?


And this is the green sensor. Anyone know what it is?


This is the vacuum line I am talking about. I searched all over the brake booster, but I can't find anything. In the picture the hand is holding the vacuum line that was originally attached there. I only labeled that end for some reason.


These are my old plugs and the new ones I bought. They are not the bur8eq rx8 plugs. They are br8eq, I believe they were meant for motorcycles or something. I just happen to have them so I was wondering if I could use them. I think I am going to order new ones however and just use the old ones to drive it for a week or so. I don't know what's good or bad condition for these rx7 plugs so if they are too bad to put back in please say so.



And does anyone here run this for their premix?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The green plug you labeled "O2" located behind the air box is a check connector used in setting the TPS.

Water temp sensor link: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/near-mint-1990-turbo-ii-95%25-stock-867771/

Look at the last pic of the engine which is viewed from the driver side and notice where the oil sender unit is and look just to the left of it and you can see the small water temp sensor.

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

I don't know about all your other questions, but I do run that two stroke oil, have for over 2 years.

EnjoiPugs

So I still need some help. I want to get this car started. I figured out everything except that vacuum hose. I traced that metal line and it goes to the charcoal canister. I checked my haynes manual. It shows that vacuum line leading to the oil filler neck. It shows two connections there but I only see one when I look in the car?!? It was plugged in when I took out the engine IDK. What does the charcoal canister connect to?

But I have another issue. I wanted to see if it was building oil pressure before I started it so I unplugged the spark plug lines and cranked it 3 times for about 10 seconds each. I didn't see the oil pressure gauge move at all though. Am I checking it wrong?

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

the charcoal canister is to cut down on smelly fumes. there are 2 nipples on the center iron. on is on the iron itself and the other is on the oil fill tube. the oil pressure is not something i would be too concerned about if you installed the oil pump and chain right and they were in spec when installed.

also ive used that 2 cycle oil with no problems. i have heard though that if you use marine 2 stroke oil, it will burn cleaner since environmentalists dont want oil floating in their water.

EnjoiPugs

^^ Thank you. I am going to go look for it right now and then try to start it. I'll report back with how it goes.

EnjoiPugs

Man, I can't get it started. The battery voltage is at 12, then I turn the key and it goes down to quarter way. Do I need to jump start it or is that normal? And I read that putting a little bit of oil in the lower spark plug holes will help it start. Are they talking about 2 cycle oil? Should I try this or just keep cranking it. I probably cranked it for half a minute straight a three or four times. I thought it almost started once, but then I let go of the key and it didn't start.

EnjoiPugs

Okay, so I found out the oil pressure sensor got knocked off lol. So I reattached that and there is oil pressure. It went up to 45 during cranking. But the car still wont start. I tried pulling the egi and cranking it. I tried jump starting it. Then I tried putting some oil in the bottom spark plug holes and jumping it. It wants to start but it wont. The fuel pump should be primed after cranking it so much right? I see no leaks, oil and coolant levels are solid. What should I try next...

EnjoiPugs

Yeah, I went out there and the CAS was a gear off. That's why it wouldn't start for me. I got it going today. Everything seems good. The block off plate I made for the OMP is just a tad leaky, but I am going to fix that later. Thanks for everyone's help. I am finally able to drive the car and I'm loving it!

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

sounds great!