Last weekend, I tried to remove my rear hubs so that I could install rear toe eliminator bushings and rear wheel bearings. I ran into a snag because I wasn't able remove the bolts that attach the stock toe bearing to the trailing arm. I saturated these bolts with penetrating fluid, and then tried to remove them using a 1/2" drive impact wrench. After a couple hours, I still wasn't able to break these bolts loose. I'm guessing that the stock toe bearings are probably made of aluminum and that is the reason the steel bolts are seized (i.e, galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar materials). Would anyone know for a fact if the rear toe bushing are made out of aluminum? Has anyone had similar problems in trying to remove these bolts? If yes, than I'd appreciate hearing any suggestions on getting them loose? Thanks.

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/rrsteer.htm I figure you've read that url already. Only thought I have is to call Mazdatrix on their tech line and ask them. Thats if nobody answers your post. I'll be doing that item in the near future, so I have some interest in your question.

 

the bushing is two steel shells with rubber connecting them. the corrosion is just from being under the car for fifteen years. you need a bigger or better impact wrench and the nut will come off or the bolt will break. the nuts are the locking type also, but the original bushing is steel and rubber.

 

OK, thanks for the suggestions. Actually, I had these bolts out once before about five years ago, and didn't have a problem breaking them loose at that time. My "Plan B" is to use a 3/4" drive impact wrench on the next attempt -- I didn't have a 3/4" drive socket during my first try. I am concerned about possibly snapping these bolts when using a 3/4" drive impact wrench. With breakage being a real possibility, I've ordered replacement bolts from Mazda, just in case. While placing the order, I spoke to Ray Crowe (Parts Manager, Malloy Mazda of Woodbridge, VA) and he mentioned that he once had a similar problem removing those bolts, but was able to break them loose after heating with a torch. Those bushings must have been smoking something fierce due to the burning rubber.

Well, thanks again for your suggestions. Will probably try again this weekend, and will post on my progress, or lack thereof, next week.

 

if they are that difficult to remove I would change them for sure. Also try some anti seize compound on the threads so that future removal will be easier. I do this to almost every bolt or nut I remove from my car. that way they will always come loose.

 

i replaced my rear steer bushings with the eliminators a couple weeks ago. my problem wasnt getting the hubs or any part off the car, it was removing the old bushings. since i dont have a hydraulic press, i had to use a vice. my dad has an old 12 inch vice which i used for pressure. i used a 1 1/8 " scoket to push the bushing out (MAKE SURE THAT IT IS THE SAME SIZE AS THE OUTER METAL HOUSING OF THE BUSHING AND SLIGHTLY SMALLER THAN THE HOLE THE BUSHING FITS IN!!!!!!!), and a deep well 2 " as a stand to push the bushing into. i had to put a 10 foot bar on the vice handle to be able to turn it.

my advice is this.

if you dont have a press or a BIG vice, dont use heat on the bolts. it will damage the bushing that you are trying to replace, but you wont be able to replace it if you cant press it out. all this adds up to a burnt rear steer bushing that you cant get out.

just be careful, you can do it!

 

There's a hydraulic press in the shop where I'll be doing the job.

BTW, what's your impression of the rear steer eliminator bushings during driving?