Rear shock removal
#1
Rear shock removal
Ok yall, I tried searching and my searchin fu fails me, it seems.
Anyhow, As I understand from the Haynes manual there was just the 2 top nuts and the one screw. So I took the screw out and got the shock out but then I was stuck trying to get the last bit off.
I mean, it does come off right? The Tokico shocks already have the bushing and then a little metal bit.
Do i need to get a big monkey wrench on it? I have tried applying a torch for a little bit after some liquid wrench.
And If am doing this wrong, I apologize, but thank you for any help/suggestions.
Anyhow, As I understand from the Haynes manual there was just the 2 top nuts and the one screw. So I took the screw out and got the shock out but then I was stuck trying to get the last bit off.
I mean, it does come off right? The Tokico shocks already have the bushing and then a little metal bit.
Do i need to get a big monkey wrench on it? I have tried applying a torch for a little bit after some liquid wrench.
And If am doing this wrong, I apologize, but thank you for any help/suggestions.
#2
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put a pry bar in between the shock and the spindle.
the shock is just sitting on that with a rubber bushing.
You don't need to take that PIN off(the 21mm or so thingie that the shock is on.)The bottom of The shock is just holding on with the rubber bushing onto that,Using the bar and a bit of spray lube it should pop and slide right off.
the shock is just sitting on that with a rubber bushing.
You don't need to take that PIN off(the 21mm or so thingie that the shock is on.)The bottom of The shock is just holding on with the rubber bushing onto that,Using the bar and a bit of spray lube it should pop and slide right off.
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I know what happened!
If the Sleeve of the Bushing from the shock is on there,then it needs to come off.
That was the FIRST big encounter I had with my First shock swap,and was the MAIN reason for Buying a Dremel,which I will not go without now!
I cut that bushing off and It put a big smile on my face.
..another thing you "could do" is just get that Part OFF the spindle assembly and buy another one.That is if you don't want to cut that shock bushing sleeve off of it.
Buy that at the dealer.
If the Sleeve of the Bushing from the shock is on there,then it needs to come off.
That was the FIRST big encounter I had with my First shock swap,and was the MAIN reason for Buying a Dremel,which I will not go without now!
I cut that bushing off and It put a big smile on my face.
..another thing you "could do" is just get that Part OFF the spindle assembly and buy another one.That is if you don't want to cut that shock bushing sleeve off of it.
Buy that at the dealer.
Last edited by misterstyx69; 04-01-13 at 12:24 AM.
#9
So, I can cut just a little bit into whats left on there and it should dislodge itself? And then if I cut too far I have to get it off the spindle assembly and buy a new par then?
So
Try to cut into this:
and dont just try to remove the metal bit here.
Thanks again for all the help!
So
Try to cut into this:
and dont just try to remove the metal bit here.
Thanks again for all the help!
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/\..this.
that sleeve is from the shock so it needs to be cut off to get the new shock on.
Take a dremel cutting disc and slowly make a line down the length of the bushing.
you can cut through at the Outer part,but once you get ON the PIN,then BE CAREFUL or else you have to take that part off and get another one.
I used the dremel and a chisel.I didn't cut fully through the length of the bushing,but I managed to free it off that pin.
Penetrating spray is your friend too on this job.
that sleeve is from the shock so it needs to be cut off to get the new shock on.
Take a dremel cutting disc and slowly make a line down the length of the bushing.
you can cut through at the Outer part,but once you get ON the PIN,then BE CAREFUL or else you have to take that part off and get another one.
I used the dremel and a chisel.I didn't cut fully through the length of the bushing,but I managed to free it off that pin.
Penetrating spray is your friend too on this job.
#12
Awesome, thank you all, I just needed that extra bit of explanation. On a side not, am I going to run into a similar problem with the fronts? I mean i know there isn't any bushing up there but it shouldn't be anything that some heat an PB Blaster shouldn't be able to fix right?
#13
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/\/\/\...No.
The fronts have 4 nuts(14mm?)on the top mount studs, up top and 2-17mm bolts on the bottom, that go through the shock mount collar and spindle assembly.
The fronts have 4 nuts(14mm?)on the top mount studs, up top and 2-17mm bolts on the bottom, that go through the shock mount collar and spindle assembly.
#14
Sometimes text just doesn't quite put it how it should sound. I know what the front has, I was beating the bush on asking if the fronts are usually all rusty, but that cant really be told on the internet.
But most underside bolts aren't too rusty on my car. So I kinda answered my own question.
But most underside bolts aren't too rusty on my car. So I kinda answered my own question.
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Ohhhh..the the new-fangled stuff!
I remember workin on cars with a pair of lock pliers and a dream...lol!
After I got an FC,well,My tool box went from a 6.99 set of tools to a Freakin garage of duplicate **** that I still Can't FIND when I look for it..I know it's here somewhere..Dammit!!
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