classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Somehow I don't doubt it will be incomplete

Uh huh.

It can be tough, but its doable. I do lots of fiberglass work.

OK. And tell me, how much light transmission is legal on window tint on a rear glass? 20%? 10%? 5%?.......................its surely not 0%.

First post in the thread says you're "setting up 15gal fuel cell install". I guess setting up means making up your mind on what you're going to buy eventually?

So where will the passenger put their feet?

Oh thank lord, wouldn't want to make this a ridiculous project.

No, thats actually one thign I was out to lunch on, you could surely build adequate bracing to undo any weakness caused by cutting these massive ducts in the body. But the point remains - WHY?

You know something. I drove an Escort wagon to work today and its -19 outside. My engine was 180F. Interestingly enough, when I drive to work and its 25+ outside, the Escort remains 180F. I wonder how they could possibly manage to pull that off with the radiator mounted in the nose of the car using a water pump driven by engine speed? How on earth does it do it????

Probably can depending on how much you build yourself. Will it be worth it? Depends on how skewed your views are.

You're not serious are you?

blwn rtr 89'

iTrader: (5)

^ be honest for a minute, as negative of your views on this project do you see even 1 benefit?

pengarufoo

waste of time, if you want to do something to the hatch replace it with lexan for weight saving and move on.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Honestly, no I really can't think of one.

I suggest looking into meth injection, negates the need for anything upfront in some cases (intercooler wise). Slo mentioned this earlier and he runs sans intercooler.

blwn rtr 89'

iTrader: (5)

you say why.... i say why not

humor me while i do more research, however you do bring up valid concerns.

anyone have a near stock TII engine who has excel datalogs, with AAT, TPS, O2, coolant temp, RPM, Pulse width, and voltage?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure what this is a relative alternative to.

How have you determined this? Considering the bumper is a very high pressure area, and the underside is a low pressure area (to reduce lift) then it would seem the opposite is true.

So this is a full track car? Still, I would think that being able to get a clear view of what is behind you is even more important on the track then on the street. Creating a massive blind spot is going to be an issue.

Again, are you sure about this? One way to find out would be to build a wind tunnel and use a model of an FC. You can make a tunnel with a powerful fan and a tunnel made from cardboard. Use smoke or string to look at airflow over the model. Make sure to straighten out the airflow from the fan with a set of louvers. If you have a magnehelic gauge, you can use it to see minor pressure differences around the car.

The underside of the car is also very turbulent. You will need to fit it with a an underbody panel, which will completely change the aerodynamics of the body.

OK, same difference. I'm betting that you would not be able to tell the difference between two identical cars with the only change being one setup with 2.5 feet, one setup of 4 feet.

Stuff like this has been covered so many times on this forum that it would be absolutely silly to get into it again. Electric fans and electric water pumps (and any electrical accessory) still load the engine. The alternator must take MECHANICAL energy to make ELECTRICAL energy.

A proper tune, ball bearing turbo and reasonably sized intercooler piping will go a long way towards this.

You will certainly have more coolant volume, which will mean the system will absorb more heat, but more efficient remains to be seen.

What does that mean?

The RX-7 is already 50/50.

Because a carbon fibre hatch with a rad mounted into it isn't ugly? And all the vent holes needed to duct air, and a huge scoop coming out of the hatch?

I can't make any sense of this...At 8000K, your engine would be a steaming pile of melted metal. The rotary is not designed to spin to 8,000,000 RPM. At 8K, your water pump is cavitating so cooling is worse then at 4K.

The stock fan clutch tries to keep the fan at a constant speed determined by temperature, not engine speed.

There's nothing wrong with the stock electrical system. It handles the requirements of a stock vehicle just fine.

That's a good goal, but it's going to be a hard thing to implement without spending a lot of money. There are no good cheap, yet powerful and sealed BLDC motors out there without a rather high price tag. Keep in mind you need about 0.5-1HP worth of motor to run a big e-fan at full tilt.

So you'll need to gear it down quite a bit...

What voltage? At 12V, 6A is only 72W....Most e-fans draw 250-300W.

This is a 104W motor, that spins at 11K. You need to gear it down to less then 1000RPM to spin the fan. It's winding voltage is 170V so you will need a variable frequency 12V to 170V inverter (this isn't going to be cheap).

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Well there's lots of reasons why not. Only reason to do it is to have a project, which I respect, but at the same time there's got to be a purpose to it.

Purpose (goal?): Achieve constant, manageable water temps with short I/C plumbing and a good intake.

Answers - V-mount, meth/no intercooler, properly setup front mount................or building a rear mounted radiator setup and dedicating 50% of the cabin space to it.

I'm not saying don't do it, I'm saying there's a million other ways to make an effcient setup that don't requrie you to canabalize the rear half of the vehicle.

You can do whatever you'd like its your car, but in reality whether you like to admit it or not the project has numerous draw backs and few upsides.