HTh3R0

iTrader: (1)

So this weekend I decided to swap my 90 gxl diff out for an s4 t2 diff.
I dropped the subframe and diff to do this so I could reach the nuts on the front mount of the diff.

Well anyway, I got my t2 diff into the subframe and sent it back up and thought I was finished but I'm stuck right at the last part.

If both subframe mounts are in place only 1 rear diff mount will line up and if I undo the subframe I can get both sides of the diff mounted but cant get the subframe to line up.
This has been a 2 day nightmare. I'm sore as a son of a b****.
I just cant get it to line up.

I have a theory that if I loosen the front diff mount nuts I might be able to compensate for this 3/4 of an inch to get everything lined up. but then I cant get any tool to fit up there to tighten the mount to the subframe. . . and they are really important.

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Hahaha, try doing this with solid mounts all around, you will end up dropping and installing it about 5 times, then hating life. Check out my build thread. This should be easier for you. You need to raise it at an angle, with the diff mounts going in first. Then the front mounts. You will have to play around with it, but with stock rubber mounts, you will be able to wiggle it in easier. Once you have both subframe mounts in, most likely you will have one subframe mount in, and the other one hanging out.

You need to then put nuts on the diff to hold it in place, and lower the one subframe mount that is in, then you should be able to bring at least both in partly. If the one subframe mount doesn't want to come down, you need to raise the one hanging side, then it should come down. Once both are at least lining up with the studs, take a rubber mallet and whack that bi!@h in.... It shouldn't be that hard really... Oh, and if both are in the studs, but don't want to do in further, they are probably caught on the lip the subframe mount has. More wiggling and beating it in....

A transmission jack/adapter for your jack would help speed this up

Spectrum24x

my goodness, i'm doing this later this year and these threads keep me asking myself why I am going to attempt it...

good luck

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

Because its a pain in the ***, but after you do it once you realize its not nearly as bad as you thought. Once you learn what doesnt work its easy.

I ended it bolting the front diff mount in and jacked up the entire assembly as one making sure to bolt the rear diff mounts first(a couple turns to hold it), then work the subframe mounts in.

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Yup, there really is no other easier way to do this. All must go in as an assembly.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Pop the brakes off and hang them,Pop the shocks off at the 17mm nut on the bottom of the Subframe,That way you can move the subframe around more.
I put the Diff in without Dropping it.I loosened one side and let it sit on a jack,while the other side was Just on there by about two turns of the Nut on the PIN.
It is a Pain in the ***.
THE Easiest way is to just Take the subframe OUT,put the Diff on the subframe and then Manhandle the whole unit as one,and put a Floor jack under it and Pump it up into position.as soon as the Subframe is UP on the jack,use the Shocks to balance it,by Bolting the Shocks back on their pin.attach the 17mm bolt into the Pin.then guide the subframe,and Jack it up and onto the pins.Bolt on the Securing mounts and bolts...there ya go..'Easy as pie!

HTh3R0

iTrader: (1)

hey guys i'm posting from my phone. Thanks for the help. I got it all back together finally. I pushed up the front of the diff and work everything in. I was originally trying to control the pumpkin with the jack and the angle was all screwed up. . .Thats probably why it wouldn't line up. I ordered a snubber/ control arm bumper from autozone so i left the subframe loose so i could put the ps in.