All right, I think I'm shooting through a set of rear brake pads is very little time. I got new calipers, rotors, and pads about a year ago. I haven't measured exactly how much is left to the pads, but they're getting pretty worn down, though by a quick look, I'd guess I could use them for a while longer if I stop driving hard.

Anyhow, what's really important.
-REAR brakes
-I do some spirited driving, and like to brake late and hard, from relatively high speeds.
-I want pads that will last a relatively long time.
-I'm not TOO particular about brake dust, but wouldn't mind having less.
-*above all else, I would prefer brakes with more stopping power, if possible
-I'm using basically new calipers and rotors. All I would conceivably change is the pads.

So, should I just wait and buy another set of $15 pads at Autozone? or do I go for some midrange $40 pads? or shell out $80 for some REALLY nice ones? prices aren't exact, and may even be way off. All I want to know is, what should I look for (brand names are good), and how much I should expect to spend.

 

I'm rockin' some Duralist semi-metallic rear pads. There wasn't much of anything left of the rears before I changed them out, so my stopping power was greatly improved.

Get your rotors turned before you put the new pads on.

Getting Ceramic pads would be good, but if you're gonna do the rears in Ceramic, you might as well do the front for a REAL improvement. Got some Duralast Ceramic front pads on the '95 Integra in my family...pretty nice.

 

Hawk HP+ pads all around, with some Motul RBF 600 fluid in your system and a good set of tires (Azenis, Potenzas, Advans are the minimum) You'll be amazed how much better you stop with that combination.

EDIT: Specific tires:
Falken Azenis RT-615
Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R
Yokohama Advan Neova AD07

 

you're wearing out the rear pads faster than the front pads?

 

Rotors have no more than 11k miles on them. Do you REALLY think they need to get turned?

 

I know... it's a little strange. My system wasn't bled properly for a while, and I think my fronts may have not been stopping as well as they should for a while; i.e. I think my brake system was trying to use the rear for most of the stopping power.

Or I could just be crazy, and maybe the pads aren't as bad as I think. I need to consult my Haynes manual.

 

I'm not looking to do anything more than pads on the rear right now, but will look into the Hawk HP+ pads, as per your suggestion. I'm using Falken Ziex ZE512 tires... inexpensive, but Z-rated, usable for all seasons (I'm in Ohio. I bought the tires before I'd decided to not use the RX7 in the winter) so I'm probably good on the tire front, at least 'til next summer.

I will definitely reference this post later, though, when I try to seriously improve handling next summer.

Thank you to all who have advised me on this!

 

If your rears are wearing faster than the fronts, you could have a problem with the rear calipers not releasing.

More heat. You could have warped your rear rotors ever so slightly. Seriously, get them turned for the new pads.

 

Okay; thank you much, sir!

 

If your rotor has warped, turning it won't really do much as they'll warp again as soon as heat is introduced.

If your calipers are seized, that could be a problem. Do you get a pop every time you pull away from a standstill after the e-brake has been used? Like parking for instance.

On a good rotor, you should always turn the rotor before new pads, that ensures optimal pad to rotor contact.

If you try that combination I mentioned above, you'll love the stopping power. I used HPS which is their street pad, which I should probably recommend to you if you're not tracking your car. Actuall, that and the Porterfield R4-S are good street pads for autox/track. I just happen to have a set available for sale (of the Porterfields). =P