Okay im having this weird fu%&*&$^&**( problem with this car and i need help before i kill myself,got a fresh rebuild motor on a T2 and it does not have any oil pressure,when you crank the motor you get no reading on the guage(it does not move at all and the sending is good)I did disconected the front upper oil cooler hose from the front cover and oil shoots out,i did take the front cover of and turn the motor by hand and oil comes out the main oil crossover point( oil comes out like crazy)then i disconected the rear oil cooler line and oil does not come out(the one that goes on the rear iron)i did check the oil filter and is dry and the turbo is not getting oil neither so what the fu^* is going on here,if oil is coming out of the front cover line and going in to the oil cooler but does not come out the other way means that my oil coolers is F up,right?
Now i did take the oil cooler the get cleaned up and i just got it back but they took out the bypass valve and i cant figure out how the thing goes back in,any pictures or write up on how to put this thing back together?now if after i install my cooler and redo my lines the problem still there is any other thing that can be done.

 

try getting a aftermarket one.

 

I would remove your EGi and crank you car for about 2 minutes (stopping and starting). It can take a while for the guage to display oil pressure on a new engine.

 

I'd take the oil hose off the rear side housing, and with the oil line that feeds the cooler OFF, see if I could blow from the rear side housing to the feed hose. It's either blocked or not. That's one way of finding out.

I'd remove the oil cooler bypass and just reinstall the nut. Then try again. I'd do the above first. Takes but minutes to check it out.

I"d also get a squirt can. Remove the oil filter. Squirt oil into the hole that feeds the eccentric shaft, til it fills that hole up. Rotate the engine by hand and squirt into that hole again. I'd do that before I spun the engine with the starter again. Also pull all the sparkplugs out so it'll spin faster and NOT have a load of any sort on the bearings. Well, almost no load. Just trying to save some bearings is all the squirt can dealeo does.

Actually, on a rebuild, I use that squirt can to fill the oil lines to the cooler also. Can't hurt a thing, gotta help some. I just squirt into the hole under the filter that goes to the oil hoses and then squit into the hole that feeds the bearings. Talking the two holes you see when the filter is removed.

Maybe later on the arrangement of the bypass valve. Later.

 

well the motor is full of assembly lube and oil so i hope that i didnt mess any of the bearings,i only cranked it less than 2 minutes of total time(i cranked it like 4 times less than 30 seconds),let me do what hailers is sugesting but before i do it i really need to know how to install the dam oil thermostat,call me a idiot guys but i cant figure it out,im pissed off cause this never happened to me before everytime that i installed a dam motor i always get pressure right on


thanks hailers

 

heres how the oil bypass goes

and u need to know how to hook up the rear oil psi regualtor?

 

no the rear regulator is fine,GOD BLESS YOU CARMENSANDIEGO

 

Can you confirm that you are using a stock oil pressure gauge? If you have an aftermarket one that is hooked to accessory for +12V I believe it will not get any power during cranking.

 

stock oil pressure guage FD front and rear regulator(is a FD motor)ecentric shaft high flow jets (not the webber jets)ported oil pump gallery,high flow FD oil pump(modded for better flow to the rear rotor) running microtech lt8s

 

AND.......he has oil going into the cooler but no oil coming out of the cooler. That seems kinda important, in order for a gauge to work or not.