ive tryin to swap my NA front cover out for a TII one, but i cant get that last piece of pulley off(its just a circular piece of steel with a big nut/bolt in the middle. i had the impact driver on the big nut and its just cranking the e-shaft (i think?) and trying to turn the wheels of the car... is there somethin special you gotta do?

 

19mm socket with a VERY STRONG impact (my 600ftlb gun will usually not remove them). Try putting it in gear and locking the e-brake.

IF that won't work then you will need to heat it with a torch. A propane torch can sometimes work if you leave it in place for about half an hour, but a map or oxyacetylene torch is really needed. I have to heat about 2/3 of the bolts on the engines I tear apart in spite of having the strongest 1/2" impact gun I can find, being driven by 165psi of air pressure (tools are rated at 90psi, so it is probably making more torque than the rating).

 

Yep...
There's also another method that involves a johnson bar, a piece of wood, and the starter

 

yeah ive had the impact cranking on it at 115psi for like 5 minutes and it didnt budge... started to think there was a different way to remove it, and i was messing something up hahah... but if it just needs some heavy duty cranking ill find a way to crack her lose... thanks guys.

 

I took an old pulley

welded a 2 foot long pipe to it (you can always use a cheater bar if you need more leverage)

bolted it to the mounting flange...

then i used a a 19mm socket on my 1/2 drive ratchet ( have to use a cheater bar)

 

what me and RX7Tuner did when we removed mine was

while the engien was on the ground we strapped a wheel to the engine with a ratchet strap and stood on the wheel (for leverage not to let the engien move) then we put the braker bar on the pulley with it real cose to the ground and one of us jumped on the end of the bar while the other stood on the wheel...

it broke off with 1-2 times

 

Lots of PB Blaster, heat, and leverage got mine off.

 

PB blaster would do absolutely nothing except promote a fire when you hit it with a torch. The bolt threads are sealed to the outside by a copper crush washer.

 

I put a 19mm socket on my 1/2" 600lb impact wrench at 140psi and it came right off, on 3 or 4 different engines too. Didnt have to keep the flywheel from moving or anything.

 

the only problem with the impact gun is that the engine has to be out of the car or the radiator has to be out of the car

 

if hes swapping the front cover i doubt taking 4 bolts and two hoses off to remove the radiator would be too much of a problem... as far as the pulley bolt i got mine off with a walmart impact and 90 psi...

if the impact wont take it off try buying a brand name socket like snapon or matco... youd be amazed at what just a new socket will do

 

Plus thread lock....

As for me, used a propane torch for 2-3 minutes (maybe a bit more) then used a breaker bar with about a 3 foot extension on it. After a few good hard tugs (using my entire body) it came off.

And to the previous poster, I have heard of people that have used a 1000 ft-lb impact wrench, and it wouldn't even take it off. I have personally sheared off a Craftsman impact grade 1/2" adapter on it. Its a tough S-O-B.

 

sounds good guys, thanks for the input. i hadda go out to eat tonight so i didnt make any further attempts.. but ill be on it tomorrow (ive got a MAPP torch and big ole breaker bar with some piping ready...)

 

I usually just put a bar and socket on it and crank the starter over. Make sure the bar is the right way or it'll sling all the way around.

 

^ "Well, I guess I won't be needing that fender any more..."

 

that seems like a pretty hardcore method hahah, but i dont think i want to go that that route hahah. i picture an old school catapult with me gettin chucked a couple hundred feet away haha... thanks anyways tho

 

Wow.....

 

OF course, upon further reflection, damage to the body might give the OP an excuse to repaint the car including the molding/trim...

 

when i popped mine loose i took my 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 10' piece of tubing and pushed.

 

haha, i use a starter too...
a long breaker bar, a cheater bar, rest it against the floor, find things to jam the bar so it doesnt hit anything but the ground if it falls, and crank...


if its outside, i just tie it to any 4x4 that is in a cement or pipe or a truck, and just put a breaker bar, and a long tube and just pull on it a little...

 

LIke the two fellas above. Just breakover bar and socket with the breakover laying against the structure. Turn the key for a moment and the bolt for the hub comes loose.

A front hub bolt that comes off real easy suggests it was not installed right during the assy. Locktite is supposed to be used when installing it.

And use a propane torch on the bolt to break down the locktite etc if it's still giving you a hard time.

 

ingersol rand TNT 1/2 inch impact, if that dont work i get out the 3/4 IR and comes right off, i havnt had a problem gettin them off with the 1/2 inch tho, and 125psi

 

Sure, if you don't know what your doing. Its pretty easy to do. Just install it on the bolt turn it till it reaches the ground and turn the key. End of story. No 185 psi 600 torque 400 dollar impact gun or torch required.

 

btw PRAY!

 

Couldn't this cranking method allow the thrust bearings to slip out of place? Holding the clutch down only puts pressure on the bearing. The spacer, which keeps it centered, could still slip forward. Normaly, nothing is turning, so it doesn't matter if the spacer slips forward, but if the engine is turning, the bearing could slip down from being rotated.

Oh yeah, to the OP, read this:

http://mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm