Really annoying fuel problem.. trying everything -- need help.
10-08-03, 09:40 PM
#1
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Really annoying fuel problem.. trying everything -- need help.
Well this all started a while back when I was just cruising around on my new motor (800 miles on it) and my car just lost power and stalled, and would not restart.
Well a month of troubleshooting later and its still doing it.
Compression = ok
Fuel pump is getting full voltage...
the car starts..revs to like 2k or 1k, and then sputters out or dies immedialty. its getting spark, the injectors seem to be ok, the cas is ok, the fuel pump ground is ok... i dont have a fuel pressure checker so im not sure about that..
but if while im cranking it i hold the pedal to the floor, it wont try to start.. but right when i let off the pedal it will start and rev higher (like 3k) and then stall again.
im just lost and im not sure what to check next.
Well a month of troubleshooting later and its still doing it.
Compression = ok
Fuel pump is getting full voltage...
the car starts..revs to like 2k or 1k, and then sputters out or dies immedialty. its getting spark, the injectors seem to be ok, the cas is ok, the fuel pump ground is ok... i dont have a fuel pressure checker so im not sure about that..
but if while im cranking it i hold the pedal to the floor, it wont try to start.. but right when i let off the pedal it will start and rev higher (like 3k) and then stall again.
im just lost and im not sure what to check next.
10-09-03, 11:48 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
no check engine light on s4's, but i did check the ecu for codes and it gave me none. the starter is fine (the engine is turning over and starting.. then sputtering out)
and the sparkplugs where the first things i changed =/.
and then afm is plugged in and the afm tested out ok
and the sparkplugs where the first things i changed =/.
and then afm is plugged in and the afm tested out ok
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10-09-03, 12:20 PM
#10
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That's kind of tricky.
I would just go to autozone. Buy a new one or rebuilt one and then keep it real nice and shiney.
Replace the alt and then if problem solved. Viola you're good to go. If not, put it back in the box and take her back for a refund.
I would normally suggest to take your alternator to autozone and have them bench test it. But after having a bench test on a faulty starter that I had that worked fine on their bench, but not in my car, I have little faith in their testing abilities.
I would just go to autozone. Buy a new one or rebuilt one and then keep it real nice and shiney.
Replace the alt and then if problem solved. Viola you're good to go. If not, put it back in the box and take her back for a refund.
I would normally suggest to take your alternator to autozone and have them bench test it. But after having a bench test on a faulty starter that I had that worked fine on their bench, but not in my car, I have little faith in their testing abilities.
Last edited by Templeswain; 10-09-03 at 12:22 PM.
10-09-03, 12:33 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
i really dont think my alt is bad.. because when my car is running for the 3 seconds before it stalls, the voltage on my battery jumps up to 13-14 volts
then drops back to 12 when the car stalls
then drops back to 12 when the car stalls
10-09-03, 12:52 PM
#12
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Here's a thought - the fuel pump pickup filter (sock).
A theory:
Any loose debris in the tank will wash off the sock, then as fuel is delivered, it gets sucked back up to block the sock.
I know it's a lame theory - but maybe?
A theory:
Any loose debris in the tank will wash off the sock, then as fuel is delivered, it gets sucked back up to block the sock.
I know it's a lame theory - but maybe?
10-09-03, 02:27 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
j-rat, even when i did that the car still sputters out
... and sureshot thats what i was thinking, the intank filter... but the 6 screws on my fuel pump are going to be a very major pain to get out, they are just basically rust piles
... and sureshot thats what i was thinking, the intank filter... but the 6 screws on my fuel pump are going to be a very major pain to get out, they are just basically rust piles
10-09-03, 02:48 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
well... the ecu check lights both light up for a second or two right when i put the key into the on positition... but they are sending no codes.
10-09-03, 06:07 PM
#20
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well another thing that could be bad....
i have a rebuilt engine from an 87 t2.. and my car is an 88, and i have high resistence injectors (12ohms) and the 87s used low resistence, right? i dont know what ecu i have either..
but the car ran fine before it quit on me, i had put 800 miles on it.
i have a rebuilt engine from an 87 t2.. and my car is an 88, and i have high resistence injectors (12ohms) and the 87s used low resistence, right? i dont know what ecu i have either..
but the car ran fine before it quit on me, i had put 800 miles on it.
10-09-03, 06:27 PM
#21
Maybe this is not of any value, but just because the pump is getting voltage, and the filters are new, doesnt mean the pump is flowing enough fuel. I'd say get a fuel pressure gauge, and do a flow test carefullly with the fuel line dissconnected from the engine. Sounds to me like not enough flow.
10-09-03, 09:32 PM
#23
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Originally posted by cloead
well another thing that could be bad....
i have a rebuilt engine from an 87 t2.. and my car is an 88, and i have high resistence injectors (12ohms) and the 87s used low resistence, right? i dont know what ecu i have either..
but the car ran fine before it quit on me, i had put 800 miles on it.
well another thing that could be bad....
i have a rebuilt engine from an 87 t2.. and my car is an 88, and i have high resistence injectors (12ohms) and the 87s used low resistence, right? i dont know what ecu i have either..
but the car ran fine before it quit on me, i had put 800 miles on it.
This could be it. I've searched and some people think it will burn the ECU up and others say it will **** the injectors up. My friend put some of my low impedence TII injectors into his 88(high impedence) NA and it ran fine for a while. And then is started running like **** and he changed them back and it was fine. There is a number on the ECU I believe, someone on here will know which one correlates to which year. I'm not sure myself. But you have the little resistor box right? In the front passenger side corner, behind the headlight?
10-09-03, 10:02 PM
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Maybe this is it then. Because my friends ran like ****, but he had only secondaries in there. If he had primaries too his **** would probably not even ran at all. Just get to your ECU and see what number is on it and then someone will know if you have the right ECU or not.