Real strut bars....
09-18-04, 09:42 AM
#1
working towards the goal
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 402
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Real strut bars....
Real strut bars don't have pivot points in their design. I know I'm being critical, but to me a strut bar with joints just feels very APC'ish....
I really like the carbon fiber rear strut bar from Cusco but is has hinges on the ends. Yes, it would be a bitch to get a solid bar in there without those joints and it's better than nothing at all.... But is there a company that makes strut bars for the FC without those points? Like this one from Rod Millen?
BTW, I am refering to the rear bar not the front. I'm just using that pic as an example.
I really like the carbon fiber rear strut bar from Cusco but is has hinges on the ends. Yes, it would be a bitch to get a solid bar in there without those joints and it's better than nothing at all.... But is there a company that makes strut bars for the FC without those points? Like this one from Rod Millen?
BTW, I am refering to the rear bar not the front. I'm just using that pic as an example.
Last edited by Drag'nGT; 09-18-04 at 09:48 AM.
09-18-04, 09:55 AM
#2
Explosions In The Sky
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 578
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm pretty sure CP racing's one doesn't have any joints. I believe their site is www.cpracing.ca , if not, just google 
Edit: I might be dyslexic, I thought you said REAR strut bars. Though, they do make a front one that doesn't have any joints.
Edit: I might be dyslexic, I thought you said REAR strut bars. Though, they do make a front one that doesn't have any joints.
09-18-04, 11:48 AM
#4
CP's Bar has no joints...
I have a brand new, never Installed CP Racing Rear Strut Bar In Artic Silver for sell. It has minimal scratches due to being moved around prior to boxing It. All hardware Is Included. ie. Nuts/Bolts/Back Plates. Looks great and priced at $60usd shipped. PM me If you are Interested.
I have a brand new, never Installed CP Racing Rear Strut Bar In Artic Silver for sell. It has minimal scratches due to being moved around prior to boxing It. All hardware Is Included. ie. Nuts/Bolts/Back Plates. Looks great and priced at $60usd shipped. PM me If you are Interested.
Trending Topics
09-18-04, 01:07 PM
#8
ERTW
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
in terms of strut bars you are not honestly going to notice a difference between one w/ a joint and without one. if you install and preload both correctly, they will have the same effect. it is very hard for the bar to actually pivot along those joints once you have the bolts properly tightened. if it does somehow manage to move, maybe it should be...
having said this you want to go with a single piece, mostly because the build quality will be better...but you may want to consider spending the cash on other things first. an expensive strut bar isn't the best way to get your car to go faster on the track (and sometimes those fancy triangulated ones aren't even allowed...)
having said this you want to go with a single piece, mostly because the build quality will be better...but you may want to consider spending the cash on other things first. an expensive strut bar isn't the best way to get your car to go faster on the track (and sometimes those fancy triangulated ones aren't even allowed...)
09-18-04, 03:18 PM
#9
working towards the goal
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 402
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by silverrotor
CP's Bar has no joints...
I have a brand new, never Installed CP Racing Rear Strut Bar In Artic Silver for sell. It has minimal scratches due to being moved around prior to boxing It. All hardware Is Included. ie. Nuts/Bolts/Back Plates. Looks great and priced at $60usd shipped. PM me If you are Interested.
I have a brand new, never Installed CP Racing Rear Strut Bar In Artic Silver for sell. It has minimal scratches due to being moved around prior to boxing It. All hardware Is Included. ie. Nuts/Bolts/Back Plates. Looks great and priced at $60usd shipped. PM me If you are Interested.
Originally Posted by coldfire
in terms of strut bars you are not honestly going to notice a difference between one w/ a joint and without one. if you install and preload both correctly, they will have the same effect. it is very hard for the bar to actually pivot along those joints once you have the bolts properly tightened. if it does somehow manage to move, maybe it should be...
having said this you want to go with a single piece, mostly because the build quality will be better...but you may want to consider spending the cash on other things first. an expensive strut bar isn't the best way to get your car to go faster on the track (and sometimes those fancy triangulated ones aren't even allowed...)
having said this you want to go with a single piece, mostly because the build quality will be better...but you may want to consider spending the cash on other things first. an expensive strut bar isn't the best way to get your car to go faster on the track (and sometimes those fancy triangulated ones aren't even allowed...)
09-18-04, 09:09 PM
#12
I live in an igloo
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 2,546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lol at the fire extinguisher.. For an FC or even an FD's occasional fire issues, I don't blame you ONE BIT for putting that in, just to be safe 
I agree though, a straight strut bar would probably be alot stronger and more stable than anything other. How much do these things roughly go?
I agree though, a straight strut bar would probably be alot stronger and more stable than anything other. How much do these things roughly go?
09-18-04, 11:44 PM
#14
ERTW
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well you could search 
seriously though, that is a common problem. when i installed mine it BARELY cleared.
only thing you can really do is to lower the alternator position. this should mean getting a new belt that is smaller/tighter, but you may have SOME room to move with the belt that is there already. i suggest the first option, since the belt may need to be replaced anyways. do the second option only if it is a new belt and you follow the ratings from the FSM for min allowable tension...also note that belth tension changes as it is being used (noted in the FSM i think)...
but it should be fine as long as you can slide a piece of paper freely between the bar and the alternator. there is no real harm in the alternator hitting the strut bar, other than vibration and noise issues. chances are if it just barely clears it will only hit occasionaly
seriously though, that is a common problem. when i installed mine it BARELY cleared.
only thing you can really do is to lower the alternator position. this should mean getting a new belt that is smaller/tighter, but you may have SOME room to move with the belt that is there already. i suggest the first option, since the belt may need to be replaced anyways. do the second option only if it is a new belt and you follow the ratings from the FSM for min allowable tension...also note that belth tension changes as it is being used (noted in the FSM i think)...
but it should be fine as long as you can slide a piece of paper freely between the bar and the alternator. there is no real harm in the alternator hitting the strut bar, other than vibration and noise issues. chances are if it just barely clears it will only hit occasionaly
09-19-04, 03:00 AM
#15
Rotary Freak
The CP racing isn't a strut brace. It doesn't serve the purpose of a regular strut brace, because it doesn't actually connect to your struts, it's just a bar you stick in the back to stiffen your chassis a little bit.
Personally I use the Cusco 40mm bar in the back. Sure it has those hinges, but A) nobody sees them and B) i'd love to see you try to move this thing. at all.
Personally I use the Cusco 40mm bar in the back. Sure it has those hinges, but A) nobody sees them and B) i'd love to see you try to move this thing. at all.
09-19-04, 04:39 AM
#16
Originally Posted by Drag'nGT
Real strut bars don't have pivot points in their design. I know I'm being critical, but to me a strut bar with joints just feels very APC'ish....
I really like the carbon fiber rear strut bar from Cusco but is has hinges on the ends. Yes, it would be a bitch to get a solid bar in there without those joints and it's better than nothing at all.... But is there a company that makes strut bars for the FC without those points? Like this one from Rod Millen?
BTW, I am refering to the rear bar not the front. I'm just using that pic as an example.
I really like the carbon fiber rear strut bar from Cusco but is has hinges on the ends. Yes, it would be a bitch to get a solid bar in there without those joints and it's better than nothing at all.... But is there a company that makes strut bars for the FC without those points? Like this one from Rod Millen?
BTW, I am refering to the rear bar not the front. I'm just using that pic as an example.
*Kicks soap box from under the noob*
There was a thread a while back maybe three or four months on the forces placed on strut bars and we basically determined that even cheap ebay "apc" style strut braces would reduce flex dramatically. Although you should know that I greatly dislike the cheap strut bars because they are not top quality they aren't completly worthless and your claim about them not being "real" strut braces is completly untrue as even with MINIMAL strength which is carried by these rather flimsy ebay jointed bars would reduce flex enough to make it worth the 30 or 40 dollars it costs for a cheap one. If any strut brace is not worth buying I would say it is the one you like the CF covered(yes they are NOT solid composite they are only aluminum covered with CF) because you are wasting all that extra BLING money for basically no increase in structural rigidity. :b:
Santiago
