My check engine light just came on for a split second for the first time in 2 years.

I know it is the fuel, I want to re-wire the fuel pump, but I cannot get the screws off to pull it out of the tank. They are heavily corroded. What are my options for getting them out? (the cover on the tank, not the first cover)

 

I'm not sure why you think the check engine light has anything to do with the fuel... but anways...

you don't need to pull it out. I just ran my wires and connected them outside in the trunk. it won't make any diff going all the way. and I don't think you could get a bigger wire though down to the pump anways.

however when it comes time to replace it... that'll be fun. My friend had to drill his out. mine came out fine

 

just don't use a torch to heat them up

 

Drilling could be scary anyways .. sparks N ****. I would heavily grease the drill bit if I were you ..

 

Lol, smart thinkin Scott .

Grab onto the screws with a huge pair of vice grips, and turn . I actually had to do this to get the pump off the bracket, the metal bracket that holds the pump onto the assembly has one screw in it that decided to give me a strip show (ponder that one).

Like scott said, you dont need to remove the pump to rewire it.

Jameson

 

Craftsman has this new tool that is designed just for grabbing stripped screws. I dont know what its called, but go to a Sears and ask. It will make your life much easier.

 

Drill the heads off and grab the remaining shank with a pair of pliers after you lift the cover/pump out. They will come out willingly. Take the filter off the end of the pump and replace it or clean it with varnish remover. Clean tank while there.

No real need to do the above if doing a fuel pump rewire. Also no reason to think fuel pressure drop would cause the engine check light to come on imho. Could be wrong, don't think so.

 

Do a serach for "rant fuel pump screws" under my name. You'll find lots.

 

What do you suggest using to clean the tank?

 

hahaha good one!!

I think it is something to do with the fuel because since last night my A/F gauge (as unreliable they are for readings) is reading a lot closer to stoich then rich. (at WOT it used to always be pure rich, now it lights up quickly between far stoich and rich, almost like the "fuel save mode" where is bounces back and fourth only way faster.)

I definitly need to clean the in-tank filter and possibly the tank as much as possible. (its never been done, 180,000+ miles on the tank.)

I wish the engine light would stay on long enough for me to get error codes from it!! Yarg!!

 

Here's my trick:

Get a wratchet, an extension, and a phillips "bit", and a hammer.

SMASH that bit into that ****

press down on the wratchet really hard as you un-screw it..

I stripped 4 of them with a normal screwdriver before figuring this trick out.. Got all 4 out on the first (er..second, technically, I guess) try.

Don't be afraid to really wail on it.. the screws are so malleable that the bit will sink into them with a bit of coaxing..

-Tesla

 

if the light came on the code is stored. even if the light came on it wouldn't tell you the code... only if you check it will it tell you.

how to on my site

 

Be sure to replace the screws with 6mm s.s Hex head bolts.

 

you could always get an impact screw driver. They're heavy, bout a foot long and you bash it with a hammer. It'll pop that thing loose damn quick.

 

Ah that is where I misunderstood, I didn't know the codes were stored, so unless the light was on when I shut off the car I wasn't even gong to try...

Thanks! I'll check them tonight.

 

Code 11 - Air Intake thermostat

Code 12 - Throttle Sensor (full range)

Code 17 - Oxygen Sensor Voltage messed up (time for new one)

Code 18 - Throttle Sensor (narrow range)


Yarg...I have got my work cut out for me.

 

reset them (pull the battery) and drive and see if they all come back. they could have been old ones.

 

Yea I reset the ECU before work today and drove it around all day/night here.

So lets see, adjust the TPS, change O2 sensor, replace intake air thermostat and check all electrical to these...

I'll be busy this weekend...oh well (I will see if my mechanic can fix these cheap, if it is less than $100 I'll just get him to do it).

 

I reset it again for longer this time, and drove around, so far the only one that has come back on was the code 17,

Thank.