Re-packing and Torquing Front Wheel Bearings - Write-up
A caution on the bearing preload. If the FSM is actually showing a scale attached to the wheel stud then all above (using of weights) is correct. Often the bearing drag is measured in foot pounds. The weight then needs to be hung on a bar one foot away from the center of rotation and parallel to the ground to get the correct torque.
back in my day we never used a book, we tightened the castle nuts without any special tools and WE LIKED IT!
*spits*
main key point, the bearing should not be preloaded barely at all. the tool is for those who can't comprehend that the bearing needs only a very light cinch down from finger tight.
we also used to replace pinion seals with nothing more than a grease pen and an impact gun. there is a shortcut to everything, if you know what you're doing.
*spits*
main key point, the bearing should not be preloaded barely at all. the tool is for those who can't comprehend that the bearing needs only a very light cinch down from finger tight.
we also used to replace pinion seals with nothing more than a grease pen and an impact gun. there is a shortcut to everything, if you know what you're doing.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Oct 22, 2012 at 06:34 PM.
The FSM shows using a spring-scale to pull on one of the studs, and the spring-scale should read 1.5 to 2 lbs, so the distance from the hub CL to the stud is the specified lever arm. The tightening torque would be about .5 to 1 lb-ft
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tallbozo
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
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Aug 15, 2015 02:47 PM







