JAPSPECGTUs

I live in Florida and for me I can sacrafice hp and wieght for the comforts of A/C. I know some people are die-hard performance junkies but I myself, would like to not sweat my *** off when I am just cruising.

Can it be re-installed if you are running a Microtech?
Would I just need to reinstall the ACV?

I did search and found many threads about removing A/C, but not putting it back in(you litte heathens!).

Thanks in advance...

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

what all has been removed from the car?

did they go ***** out on the removal of the A/C and take out the evap. as well?

SureShot

The ACV is just for emmissions, is not part of the AC system.

Except for the logicon, it's all standard 1980's design.
Unless the harness has been hacked, it should all be there.
The compressor clutch power is (+) and it is grounded at the compressor.

I will suggest you charge it with an R-12 replacement like freeze12 and not go 134A.

SidewaysFC

It can be installed but you'll loose an input because you are going to want to bump up the idle when you kick the a/c on. And I believe MT has very few inputs. If it wasn't to bump the idle back up I don't remember why he used an input on the MT for the a/c.

This was on my friend's FD btw. If it applies differently on an FC then I am sorry.

JAPSPECGTUs

The compressor is gone, but I am willing to get a used one to replace it, or a new one at RX7.com(a S4 for 200) and locate a dead one and put the S5 pulley on it. The pressure hoses are still intact. Should I ask in the MT forum?

SidewaysFC

Definitely. There are quite a few dealers and installers out there as well as TEAMFC3S.org

liv

i have the full ac setup from my 87

i will sell it cheap

JAPSPECGTUs

Really? Onencognito4now@aol.com

E-mail me, I will be getting a 16k check on thursday, so then we can talk shop :-D

spot_skater

What's wrong with 134A?

It's got a slightly higher boiling point, that's about it... And it's cleaner.

iceblue

Well if you still have the hard lines and they are not coverd up chances are they are contaminated. You may have to run something through them to clean them up. Then put the compressor back on. If they did not mess with the rest you will still need to clean that. Replace the orfice tube and clean the condensor and the lines so the system isnt contmainated. AC can be a PITA but I hear you on the sunny FL. Thats why i am keeping it! Also make sure you put a few drops of oil in the compressor befor you hook it up. That will help the internals from geting potentialy fatel damage during its first 3seconds of run time with no oil in there :-O

NZConvertible

Just so you know, on S5's with the stock ECU the A/C is temporarily cut any time you exceed half-throttle, so there's really no loss of power.

Yes, but you'll need to jumper the two A/C wires that went to the stock ECU. This will mean the function mentioned above won't work, but you should be able to wire up the MicroTech it to replicate it as well as bump up the idle speed when the A/C's on. See the MT manual for more details.

You don't need the ACV for the A/C.

JAPSPECGTUs

There is nothing that Jason doesn't know

JAPSPECGTUs

BTW I found a thread in the MT forum. It covers the bases pretty well, thanks fellas.

Wankel7

What about those pressure switchs that are in the lines up front?

What would be a good way to flush the evaporator?

James

NZConvertible

There's only one and it stays.

iceblue

AC flush

MaxRX7

I just put the compressor and everything back on, I'm just awaiting to charge it up with freon. if you need any installation tips, let us know.

geetarstar

I appologize for hijacking the thread but I have a question. I am also re-installing my a/c system for the first time. In the FSM, it says to uses "compressor oil" to lube the o-rings. Is there any other oil I can use to lube them as an alternative? also what can I use to clean the aluminum pipes safely?

Thanks.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

NO

Only use refridgerant speific oil (ester Temperature control oil)

Other oils MAY work, however I wouldn't go experimenting with oils something that runs +250psi on a hot day

JAPSPECGTUs

Thats a good question, no hijacking penalites geetarstar

tinvestor

Higher boiling point equals less efficient

Dont forget to replace the drier whenever you open system to atmosphere

you can use nitrogen to flush out the system but you need to regulate the pressure keep it below 100 psi should be good.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Here is what I use: Nylog. http://www.ackits.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=Nylog

Nylog is awsome stuff.

Also, if you want professional answers to your a/c questions, nothing beats this forum: http://www.acsource.net/acforum/viewforum.php?f=1

NeCr0mStR

iTrader: (3)

Actually if I remember correctly the R-134A is worse for our environment and r-12 was strongly recommended by my AC people.. told me essentially r-134a is no good in comparison.

NeCr0mStR

iTrader: (3)

Yet another question I asked my AC people and they told me any kind of oil is good. All you wanna do is just get it moist with the oil to lubricate... your not using it in the system. I just used a little drop on my finger and rubbed the oring around in my fingers to coat it.

NZConvertible

You've got that the wrong way around. R12 contains CFC (chloroflourocarbons) that are very bad for the ozone layer. R134a does not, which is why it replaced R12 over 15 years ago and is still the most common gas in new car A/C systems. Performance-wise R12 is a superior refrigerant than R134a, but you're not allowed to use it for environmental reasons.