Ive searched and cant find any of the links. Im just now getting around to getting ready to do these. I cant even remember any websites that had diagrams and pics of these mods. Any help would be nice. Thanks guys.
Jeremy

 

I think you loose some low end with the TB mod if I'm not mistaken.

 

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/home.html

 

Assuming that you have a Turbo, then here is how to do the TB mod: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TBM/tbm.html
It its on an NA, then there really isn't any point.

 

You are mistaken.

 

Thanks man. Thats the one I couldnt remember.

Thanks for the link bigzman.

 

the TB mod only gains you maybe 2% better airflow tops at top end. it can royally screw up your idle if you do it wrong or remove everything.

the only point is to simplify your TB. reduces the vacuum lines going everywhere.rerouts the coolent hose straight to the BAC.

my suggestion would be to buy a spare TB to work on. maybe try out a little boring on it too?

 

I meant on the N/A, but I'll take your word for it

 

Engine type doesn't matter, the TB mod doesn't cause you to "loose some low end".

 

The only thing it does concerning air flow is remove the double throttle valves. On an NA these close the secondaries when cold to prevent romping on a cold engine, and on a TII they open the secondaries slowly to avoid engine bogging. So removing them on an NA does nothing except let you do stuff that is bad for the engine, while doing it on a turbo can give you marginally better throttle response. There are other things like removing a troublesome coolant hose on the turbos, but I really don't remember the details.

 

Try to just remove the actuating rod with spring and zip tieing the outer plate open and then go for a ride and see if you like it or not vs the original configuration. It only takes twenty to thirty minutes to do that on the outside.

You might find you don't like it or come to the realization that with the outer plate in the streamlined positon, that there's not much of anything to gain by removing the plate and shaft.

 

Hmm. Thats a great idea. I hadnt even thought of that.
Thanks dude. Anyone have any more sites with better pics of the rats nest removal?

 

That hose is for the thermowax, which controls cold-idle speed. The thermowax doesn't need to be removed with the double throttle system; the two systems are totally separate. IMO a crappy or non-existent cold idle is a lot more hassle that that hose.

 

^Thanks man.

 

Ok, good to know. I hadn't done any research on the turbo stuff, I just hear people bitching about the 90 degree coolant hose.

 

any pics of rats nest removal for s5's?

 

I just rerouted the coolant hose and left the tb as it was. That hose is a bitch to put on and take off, it's worth the idle troubles.

 

It basically the same for S5's, except there's an additional air bleed line for the secondary injectors, and there's no twin-scroll. S5's also have a solenoid valve and lines for the electronic boost control system, but this is completely separate and not part of the vac rack.

BS. That hose is easy to get to if you use your head. I don't understand what the fuss is all about...

 

One of the keys to removal of the hose b/t the throttle body and the rear side housing, is OBSTRUCTIONAL REMOVAL.

Meaning ........don't be hardheaded about removing the minimal amount of *THINGS*. If you remove items like the Alternator, you'll find there is more access to the hose clamps and more room to move you hands from differnt angles.

A pair of right angle pliers never hurt either.

 

Actually the best thing to remove is the rubber TB elbow. Remove it from the TB and you can sit the UIM in such a way that makes the hose easily accessible. I usually remove the alternator when I take the UIM off just because it makes working in the general area much easier.

No pliers at all is much better. Replace the factory squeeze clamps with screw clamps. It's much easier to get a screwdriver in there that a pair of pliers.

 

Id actually thought about that.

 

This thread has convinced me to do the throttle body mod..... I was worried about the >3000rpm bog, but from what i hav read it only bogs if you quickly WOT the car. I dont normally do this, so im going to do this mod.

 

So what can i expect without a BAC/ACV and the TB mod?

Do i just have to sit with the car until it is warmed up? 30-60 seconds or longer?

How will the car idle once it is warmed up?

Will there be any hesitation caused by no BAC/ACV????

 

Neither BAC nor ACV can cause a hesitation.

There is a small possibility a ACV removal could cause a different idle when removed. If the ACV had an internal leakage of air into the intake, and it had been like this over the last years, then when you remove it and install a blockoff plate, the mixture will be Richer than before and you'll have to compensate for that.

Any car with a BAC should be able to idle even if the BAC plug is removed. If it does not, and the engine is hot, then the idle wasn't set right in the first place and the BAC has been working its *** offf to compensate for a improperly set idle.

I've a suggestion about the throttle body mod on a turbo car. Look at the attached jpg. That is a rod/spring that helps control the outer set of throttle plates. IF you just take thirty minutes time (on the outside), the remove that rod/spring with cotter key.

Then zip tie/string tie/wire tie the lever it was attached to, to the full open position, you will simulate what you accomplish doing the throttle body modification.

So go drive the car that way for a day and see if you think it's worth doing the modification. If you don't think it's worth it, then just reinstall the rod/spring etc. This cost you nothing.

Once you *mod* one though, you stuck with it. Not much going back after that.

And to NZVERT: Nope. I've taken a liking to solid, spring loaded clamps that require pliers to open them. Better than screw clamps UNLESS the screw clamp is a solid clamp Without those cutouts in them that dig into the rubber.

 

Ok, well that was a very good response and explained a lot.

However, i have modded my TB already.. and my BAC/ACV are already off..

So after i put my car back together, i was planning on doing a TPS adjustment and an idle adjustment as the FSM states... will this be enough to make the car idle good when warm and run well? Or is there other systems that directly or inderectly control the idle that i should also adjust?

Thanks,

Ben