bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

so i removed all vac hard lines out of the rats nest and any thing else that isnt being utilized this is step 1 of three .step two prime . step three paint. questioshould i use heat temp on this the lim and uim plus tb?

heres step 1 complete sorry web cam photo

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

use high temp, better safe than having paint peel off due to heat. Not sure if this is a turbo but an N/A has way more hard lines that just what you are holding...

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

yah its turb , got only fuel lines and prcv line plus one other , removed all emissions

ventuno21

iTrader: (17)

Hey man i'm removing my rats nest too. Can u show me how u did yours?

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

care fully grinding away what you dont need it took me like 1 1/2 hours to complete . its pretty self explanatory , before you remove everything see what is being used and mark it , these you dont cut. tools i used were tin snips(wiss) portercable 4.5 wheel grinder with with both a cutting and a grinding wheel. the welds are brass make sure you use safety glasses. make sure not to cut the lines you do need pretty much cut 3/4 of the line you dont want and twist off with vice grips. you could eradicate the whole thing and replace what you need with pressure tubing but then you will be back to the clutter you were trying to remove to begin with

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

You can actually cut every bit of it off. The only part of the hard line you need to keep is the turbo oil feed line. The fuel lines you can just run new lines from the (nipple in front of the brake booster and the fuel filter) directly to the fuel rails. Here is how I'm currently running my setup. It's an S5 TII J-Spec. Removed the air pump, blocked off the split air pipe, and air control valve. I kept the BAC because I run a big stereo, air conditioning, and it helps with idle. Picture does not show it, but I do have a manual boost controller on the turbo.

ventuno21

iTrader: (17)

Ah sounds. Good. What did u do about the solenoids I mean which did u keep

ventuno21

iTrader: (17)

I see looks great guys.Would there be a diffrence with an s4?

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

Ditch them you don't need them. Just tuck the connectors out of the way. Boost Control one I replaced with manual one between the wastegate, and the nipple on the intake side of the turbo. I read that the electronic one on the S5's were notorious for messing up.

I do not know what all the differences are with the S4 models.

Hailers would you clarify for us?

ventuno21

iTrader: (17)

Care to clarify on the boost control? Like what it looks like?
Btw Im a noob

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

I do not think that the S4's have the boost controller like the S5's. On the S5's it's the solenoid closest to the front of the car in the line of solenoids, and it's blue. The rest of the solenoids are black with a colored dot on them.

The manual boost controller that I'm using is a simple 2 nippled brass deal with a bearing and spring. They are cheap (around $15.00), but they do the job.

ventuno21

iTrader: (17)

So then I don't need that one either. Awesome

ventuno21

iTrader: (17)

I was told to keep the solenoid that controls the stock turbo twin scroll system.

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

Correct you can ditch all three of the solenoid valves, and the boost controller solenoid (on the S5).

I'm unsure about the S4 model. I just did this mod to my S5, I have no experience with an S4.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Do not remove the twin scroll solenoid. It will hurt power under 3000 rpm.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

or upgrade to the s5 and dont just tuck the unused connections away remove from ecu it simple organized and if you ever sell it the next person might not think you just hacked it

ventuno21

iTrader: (17)

Cool thanks guys I'm Gina follow the diagram keep the twin scroll the turbo oil feed line and scrap the rest.

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

I agree removing the connectors is cleaner looking.

I would recommend that you tuck the connectors (not the solenoids, remove those) on the harness out of the way, don't cut and remove them. If you go to sell it to someone where they have emissions and need to replace the emissions stuff that you are removing they will appreciate not having to replace the whole harness because you wanted to hack it up. You might want move somewhere that has emissions, then you'd be replacing the harness as well.

That's just my opinion, it's your car do what best suits your situation.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

removing isnt hacking, and if you have tons of mods to your engine just replacing the harness wouldnt work youd have to reassemble the vehicle as nearly stock or wait for the applicable states antique law to kick in,but i do understand what you mean

but when you removed all the emissions stuff did you just leave it hanging and cap it off? i hope not , it makes for a big headache isolating problems with unplugged actuators soleinoids an clips all tuck everywhere

ventuno21

iTrader: (17)

It came with block off plates when I got it and no wiring harness

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

as in no fem harness?

ventuno21

iTrader: (17)

NO harness for the engine

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

well there are many harnesses for the engine front(by the radiator) emissions(passengerside) and engine (driverside) so that would suck not to have,i assume you got one right?

btw you know without emissions you probably wont pass inspection in cali right?

ventuno21

iTrader: (17)

I hope I have those wiring harnesses. And 30min away there's a racetrack where the car will spend it's time

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

yes then it makes no difference just dont crash wanna see what 30 mph does?(i wasnt at fault look at my sig)