im removing the rats nest .. took the uim and tb off and i just wanted some positive identification on what things are and what needs vacuum. plz dont say "look in fsm" cause the vacuum diagram doesnt tell you everything you need to know, and its hard to follow lines through the spider




pleeease correct me if im wrong on all of these, because i want to make sure all of these are what i think.

1. egr, needs vacuum line unless removed
2. this hose goes to the back of the engine somewhere near the egr, no idea if it needs to be ran to something or not?
3. oops
4. fuel pressure regulator.. needs vacuum. after throttle plates not before.
5. part of cold startup assist?
6. pulsation damper. want to put on a banjo bolt. is it located in the same place on an na?
7. what in the world is this.. and does it use vacuum? i think the lines going to the sides of it run to the omp..

also, if you can add to this list of things that need vacuum when installed. egr, boost sensor, bov, brake booster, fpr, boost gauge. thats all i can think of right now.

thanks all.

 

also on the TB mod on fc3s pro.. what is the NPT plug used for.. and can u just cap the coolant nippe on the top of the engine that the TB used to run to after this is done??

 

1) Take off the EGR... if its clogged, ditch it... if its not... ditch it anyway if you want and block it off.

2) It's not too clear... but it kind of looks like the brake booster? if so leave it.

4) It needs vacuum.. there should be a little nipple on the inside of the LIM that faces towards the firewall a bit... use that.

5) I just put a block off plate on that... (mind u I have no emmisions, accessories, twin scroll, or oil injectors)

6) Should be in the same place.

7) That is an oil injector... if u are premixing, you can ditch the OMP and block it off, and take out those injectors and put bolts in place. It does use vacuum.

All I have is the FPR line from the LIM, brake booster, and the line from the LIM to the boost sensor/boost gauge.

Someone else can correct me if I'm wrong.

 

2. isnt brake booster.

thanks for all the other info. can someone tell me about the TB mod?

 

OK... I did that mod too.. but I did it a bit differently.

The throttle plates you took out... were connected to a rod that went through the sides of the throttlebody. If that isn't plugged air will leak out.. and it wont run long. The plug is used to seal the hole... but you have to tap it. What I did.. was take a bolt, a nut, and a rubber washer... Put the bolt through the hole facing out with the rubber washer sealing it, then bolted it tight. It is ghetto, but it works, and I didn't have to buy a tap and die set.

And about the coolant... I found some hose that fit from the local autoparts store and ran the hose from that coolant nipple on the top of the motor to the back of the waterpump. This way the coolant has an even flow. It's a tight fit, but it seems to be holding up fine.

 

For TB mod no tap and die set is necessary, just fill the secondary throttle plate rod holes with JB weld. Put tape inside the TB over the holes and fill them from the outside. Once the JB weld cures, remove the tape. Perfectly smooth inside and it doesn't look ghetto.

 

Here's what will be left.



The info Spool_TSI posted is correct, except the oil injectors suck air from before the throttle, they do not see vacuum.

As for the TB mod, the instructions are pretty clear what to do with the plugs. Where's the confusion?

 

I was going to use JBweld but was afraid it may start to crumble and flake into the intake. I realize the chunks would probably burn or not be large enough to actually do any damage... but I just wanted to be on the safe side.

 

how different is that s4 digram compared to an s5 digram. I'm doing my s5 turbo and somthing like this would really help me to know what goes were and stuff

 

Once you've removed the vac rack, they're basically the same. The S5 doesn't have the twin-scroll system, but it does have the stock EBC.

 

the confusion on my part was.. why use jb weld and the NPT plug. is it safe just to use jb weld? also you said the oil injectors suck air before the throttle body.. but on the diagram they are after it, it looks like. where do i have them suck air from?

 

Depends on how you use it... I put it on the underside of a bolts head and a little in the treads, so after curing, its impossible to get sucked into the engine..
Ive heard of people putting tape on the inside of the TB, then filling the hole with JB weld. This, imo, is completely dumb. The chances of JB weld being sucked into the engine are much higher..
Either JBweld a bolt in, or tap the hole and fill it with jb weld (I dont recommend this either), or just use helicoil.
You can get a helicoil kit for about 30some bucks, expensive ****, but its awesome.

 

what about the oil injectors??? do i need vacuum running directly to them. or does the vacuum run to the omp? agghh confusing.. and what about the egr. i know it needs vacuum. anyone know what the thing is in that pic thats unnamed?

 

The oil nozzles do not have vacuum attached to them; quite the opposite in fact. They suck air from in front of the throttle, and should be connected to the UIM as they were previously.
It needs vacuum, and the solenoid valve must be in the vac line connected as per the schematic in the FSM. An EGR valve is a good thing to have (saves gas, no power loss) but if you can't be bothered to plumb it up properly it won't work and you should remove it. Same deal if the valve itself is stuffed.
#5? It's the sub-zero start assist injector. It should be removed and blocked off.

 

thanks nz, actually .. #2.. anyone know what that is?
also i guess im having trouble understanding.. the oil injector air bleed.. in the diagram its getting vacuum from the uim. but you said it should not get vacuum.. how can the UIM have non vacuum air?

im just really confused about the oil injector vacuum air crap.. do the lines run to the OMP? do ANY lines run directly to the injectors? (im at work so i cant go look at any of this stuff)

thanks

 

i guess my biggest question is.. does a line run to the nipple on top of the oil injectors from the 1 to 4 way adapter deal? because when i took my UIM nothing was running to the injectors. and the vacuum diagram i dont see anything either. ::

 

5. Sub Zero assist. Totally useless. I think Mazda even posted a service update to remove it? Remove it and block it off. Now you have more room. It will also have a bottle for coolant on the passenger firewall/fender area. Toss it. It has nothing to do with emissions.

Here is a pic of my S5 block with emissions removed but still keeping the FPR hotstart solenoid(seen on the left IC bracket)
Kind of helpfull pic

Here is my Vac rack setup. I have kept the FPR solenoid and the PCV system.
This is S5 so you will not have the secondary injector airbleed on the end of the UIM. Everything else is pretty much the same.

This is for use without the S4 Twin scroll or S5 boost controller.

 

The oil injectors all should have a vac line going to the 4 way splitter piece. That then runs to the big nipple on the back of the UIM.

The little vac hole in between the primary oil injectors is for the primary fuel injectors air bleed.

 

ok so.. vacuum or no vacuum? connects to UIM or TB??? how is it stock??

 

It's not vacuum. The oil nozzles line is bigger than the other vac lines, and it connects to the big nipple on the rear of the UIM behind the TB. Passages within the UIM, spacer and TB feed it air from in front of the throttle. That's how it is stock and that's the only way it'll work properly.

 

ahh.. thank you for clearing that up. finally im at ease!

 

what do you do with #2? mines still hanging off also

 

I can't see what #2 is because of the red line drawn on it. what does it connect to?

 

I think it has something to do with twin-scroll.. i have a picture of mine somewhere

 

still unhooked.. probably a bad thing.