I am in need of clutch replacement and I was wondering if I could use a racing clutch instead of OEM. This is my daily drive. If I want to use a racing clutch, what kind of problems would I run into?

 

If by racing clutch you mean a 'puck' clutch then I would say no.

Puck clutches (especially unsprung) are like on off switches.

The rule of thumb is street car street clutch. You can get a more aggressive street disk but stay away from puck clutches.

Personally I would look at an upgraded clutchmasters clutch.

 

act all the way

 

mazdatrix has an Exedy replacement thats amazing, i love that clutch and its like 72 bucks

 

Center Force Dual Friction clutch - pussycat on the street, gets stiffer the higher the rpm's, holds 300+ hp I believ. Best clutch I've ever used.

 

I am unaware that ACT makes products for the N/A. They do not sell an N/A Flywheel regardless of their website showing one.

 

ACT/ street strip clutch + Racing Beat 12lb flywheel + corksport stainless steel braided lines = letting the clutch out 1/4 of the way. to me to streetable rev sup fast and shifts fast but of course thats with a shortshifter.

 

you have an n/a car. You don't need much of an upgrade.

 

Bad idea.

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-writng.htm

 

i ran over 600 passes on a centerforce DF in my old n/a it was nice on the street

 

I have read enough info now to steer away from racing clutches. I am going to go for a street or street/strip clutch. Although, I am interested in the Centerforce clutch.

 

i use an 6 puck clutch for street its very easy to drive. I got a Act 6puck clutch spring loaded with a zoom 9lb or 12lb fly wheel...i dont remember which it was...lol

 

Be warned, the Centerforce is so light a newborns breath will cause the pedal to depress. I absolutely detested the centerforce that came with my car. Plus the 'weights' on the back of the PP are known to destroy throwout bearings, so you may have a lot of fun changing them.

 

ACT is nice with the HD PP, I run a spec srung in my daily and it isnt to bad, but if you sit in stop and go traffic it will kill your leg.

 

yes traffic sucks!!!! only down side..but with the puck clutch u can feel the power when u shift

 

A 6puck clutch is hardly as bad as people are trying to make it out to be. Especially if it's sprung. Hell, I drove a 3 puck unsprung for a while and it wasn't that bad, you just have to know how to use a clutch properly to avoid stalling the car.

A 6 puck sprung clutch will be fine in your car for daily driving. You'll get used to it in no time.

 

People need to really stop being pussies, it is really annoying.

My six puck sprung act clutch on a racing beat aluminum flywheel is totally streetable.

The only reason I wouldnt go with an unsprung is because of the lowered spline life.

Seriously though unless you are a complete tard a six puck is really no big deal.

 

...

 

Idk maybe I'm too hard core ( I don't think so)

But every time this type of thing comes up, I'm all for performance.

I'm not talking about anyone in specific but I think a lot of people give advice and have no Idea what they are talking about.

Example 1: "solid motor mounts will shake your teeth out" NO!!! My solid mounts are great extremely streetable, in my opinion more streetable. Any yes I have driven rubber and solid.

Example 2: "depowered racks are hard to steer" Again, NO. And again very streetable. And once again I have driven powered, depowered and manual.

And then there is this clutch issue. A six puck is not ON or OFF I can easily slip the clutch wearing steel toed work boots.

I guess people have their own opinions but I feel people really exaggerate these things.

 

A lot of it is a to each his own, clutches are specifically picky per person.

Save the idiots that run into every clutch thread and go ACT FTW when its an n/a clutch and ACT does not make products for n/a's. (As far as I know).

But if someone is asking for advice, the best thing is not to lead them to too hardcore because for many FC owners you can't a second clutch when you don't like the first one. I would rather the OP say, "this clutch is ok but I may go with an even more aggressive clutch next time" then have the OP go "what a friggen a-hole telling me a sprung puck is okay and its the shittiest thing ever".

I am with you, I drive a non properly depowered rack and I don't have ANY troubles with it. (Plus its a good way to keep your 'guns'... )

 

On that note lets re-examine the op's guestion

Yes you could use a racing clutch instead of OEM, it may be more difficult for you to operate at first but you will most likely get used to it.

Now I run an ACT 6 puck sprung clutch on my TII but that is only because my car was making too much power and my clutch was slipping. Otherwise I would have kept my OEM clutch.


As far as problems with a racing clutch, assuming you get a sprung six puck there shouldn't be any once you get used to it. Now if you went with an unsprung six puck your clutch spline life is significant shortened and there is a possibility for clutch chatter.

 

ya it is madd easy, just traffic is annoying..put it this way i had very very little experience drive a standard and i got used to it in a week on my own stalled maybe 3 times while drivin...but that was it. so ya get a 6 puck only if u plan on adding stuff to ur car like a turbo or alot/some hp

 

These kinds of things are really subjective person to person...
In other worths, as 100 people what their opinion on the matter, and you will get 100 different opinions...

"Race" or "racing" clutches imply abrupt engagement with very little slip.
This usually means no damping springs (i.e. solid center hubs) on the clutch discs.

FACT.
Due to this design, there is MORE shock going through the drivetrain during engagement.
For a street vehicle, this induces a lot more wear&tear on the drivetrain and subsequent mounts.
Engine mounts, trans mounts, diff mounts all tend to fail faster with these type of clutches.

FACT.
These types of clutch discs are usually some kinda of "copper puck" friction material.
These types of clutch discs are NOT meant to be slipped.
Slipping clutches like these will cause premature wear of the flywheel and pressure plate mating surfaces.

I agree with arghx that for a non-turbo 13B FC, it's overkill.
I do not recommend using such clutches for a street vehicle that does not see any track time.


-Ted

 

I heard many good points and counter points, but I guess I am almost sure that I will just go with a resurfaced flywheel, reinforced aftermarket OEM style clutch and just a tad stronger than OEM pressure plate. Any recommendations to those specifications?