FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

Hey guys, just wanted to make sure I have this all understood before I go at it. Yes I've searched and I read the 3/10 pages of results I got. I also looked at the 3 different diagrams floating around, all of which are different. So I have no idea whos to follow.

I'm keeping the BAC. It controls Idle and both NZConvert and Aaron Cake say it's good to keep. My car is a daily driver, not a track only car and I don't need the engine space THAT much to remove a 3 square inch valve.

I'm keeping the Throttle Body unmodded. I'll do that another time, if ever. JUST DOING THE ACV LINES.

My car has the air pump removed but the ACV is still on it so I plan on getting rid of all the lines associated with that. Nothing more and nothing less.

What the heck does the Purge Control Valve do? I tried to read the Haynes manual and didn't get much out of it.

Do you block off where the air pump fed into the manifold? I can't find that blockoff plate anywhere.

I can just put a cap on the Sub Zero nipple and there is no need to get a blockoff plate, right?

I can just take the split air pipe off and there is no need for a blockoff plate, right?

Red dots are vacuum caps.
Blue lines are vacuum lines.
Red lines are fuel lines.
Pink lines are what I unattach and the whole thing should lift off as one piece, right?

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...g?t=1205032936

Do I got it right? ,: )

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

I'm keeping the BAC. It controls Idle and both NZConvert and Aaron Cake say it's good to keep. My car is a daily driver, not a track only car and I don't need the engine space THAT much to remove a 3 square inch valve.

--Good.


I'm keeping the Throttle Body unmodded. I'll do that another time, if ever. JUST DOING THE ACV LINES.

--Fine.


My car has the air pump removed but the ACV is still on it so I plan on getting rid of all the lines associated with that. Nothing more and nothing less.

--Remove the ACV valve and use appropriate block off plate from:
http://www.2751engineering.com/2751parts.html


What the heck does the Purge Control Valve do? I tried to read the Haynes manual and didn't get much out of it.

--Purge Valve is part of the crankcase ventilation system I believe, you will need to keep this and run it like this:



Do you block off where the air pump fed into the manifold? I can't find that blockoff plate anywhere.

--Use ACV block off plate from kit listed above.


I can just put a cap on the Sub Zero nipple and there is no need to get a blockoff plate, right?

--Use Sub zero block off plate from kit listed above.


I can just take the split air pipe off and there is no need for a blockoff plate, right?

--Use split air pipe block off plate from kit listed above.



Red dots are vacuum caps.
Blue lines are vacuum lines.
Red lines are fuel lines.
Pink lines are what I unattach and the whole thing should lift off as one piece, right?


--I'm not sure what your asking here, but this is my own diagram I came up with:



Hope this helps.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

Umm kinda.

The ACV plate would only block off where the ACV was, not the air pump. Do I need to block off where the air pump was?

SAP and -0 Start both HAVE blockoff plates, but I have read you don't NEED either.

The diagram you came up with probably only applies to S4s.

I have seen a diagram without the Purge Control Valve, Can I run the car without it? What does it effect?

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

Anybody have any idea why that diagram shows the Purge Control valve and others dont?

Why did they keep the check valve on the intake? Doesn't everybody remove that and vent it to atmosphere/to catch can?

Any idea why that person kept the orange solenoid in line?

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

I'm not following you, as I recall the air pump puts fresh air in to the ACV, when you remove the air pump theres a gaping hole in the ACV, if your removing the other lines why not remove the ACV itself? Thats about all I can say there.

As for the SAP and Sub zero, you can do what ever you want I guess, sure just cap the sub zero but , the block off plates are cheap it looks a lot cleaner.

I believe there are slight differences shown in the Haynes manual between the S4 and S5 if you need help there.

Some people do run a catch can, I wanted to retain the charcoal canister and the crank case vent system. Your choice.

The orange solenoid is for the fuel pressure regulator, I currently don't have it installed but I plan on fitting it in one of these days.


There are tons of threads on emissions removal, there are alot of choices to be made depending on the extent of the work you want to do and how far from stock you want to go.

I prefer to remove only what makes a difference, I see no need for a catch can and I prefer to block holes in manifolds and such when parts are removed. Alot of this is personal preference but its all been discussed in depth many times before.

good luck.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Remove the PCV and install a catch can. There is a line coming from the oil filler tube and a line coming from the block. Attach both of those to the catch can.

on that diagram of the UIM nipples, note that some cars only have 3 nipples on the back side. Mine is an 88 T2 and has only 3 nipples, but I am unsure about S5 cars. Only the bottom nipple supplies vacuum on the 3-nipple setup. I have that tee'd with one going to my mechanical boost gauge and one going to the thermowax for the double throttle system. If you don't have an OEM one, you need a check valve on the line to the thermowax so that the thermowax only sees vacuum (orient it so that you cannot blow air into the thermovalve, only suck it in). I just used one from Carquest.

If you block off the PCV, use that bottom nipple on the front of the UIM to supply air to your BOV. It's a better source for preventing compressor surge.

Also, note that to prevent boost leaks you must use the SMALLEST vacuum hose you can fit, even if you are ziptying it. I'm not sure what it is in metric, but I use 5/32" on all the small nipples for the air bleeds and FPR for example. I have confirmed with pressure tests that 3/16" can leak sometimes. For example, it can leak if you put it on that little side nipple under the BAC for the pressure sensor. Bottom line: if a smaller size can fit on the nipple, USE IT. otherwise you are pissing horsepower away. When I fixed all these little leaks I could barely hear my turbo spooling (the woosh sound) because the air was actually going into the engine instead of shooting out of vacuum lines that were expanding under boost.

I always recommend a pressure tester such as this: http://www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html or a similar homemade one.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

Ok so I'll keep the purge control valve.

Also, the 5/32" vacuum hose tip is very helpful, I thank you arghx.

I know what system the orange solenoid is used for, I'm interested in why some people keep it and others bypass it? Is there a benefit from this?

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

Ok so I'll keep the purge control valve.

Also, the 5/32" vacuum hose tip is very helpful, I thank you arghx.

I know what system the orange solenoid is used for, I'm interested in why some people keep it and others bypass it? Is there a benefit from this?

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

What is the difference between these two? Why do people remove emmissions a variety of ways?

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

the one you just posted shows the use of a catch can instead of the purge valve, notice the missing PCV. Except they don't show the nipple at the bottom of the oil neck connected to the catch can, which it should be, it should NOT be capped.

i didn't think most guys run both the charcoal can and a catch can, isn't that kind of redundant. Most of the setups I have seen with a catch can they just leave the gas line labeled C venting to the atmosphere (under the car).

people do things differently for a number of reasons, I chose what to keep based on my needs, goals and from research on here. You can try to do it however you want.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

These are my 3 goals for this:

1. Remove ACV
2. Correct the incorrectly vented PCV
3. Install EBC

The previous owner of my car halfass removed the PCV system. I have no idea in what kinda shape it is in now, I got 2 lines that pop out near the turbo and vent to atmosphere.


and another line that pops out near the oil fill neck that is plugged. The oil fill neck has a line of fuel hose running from the top of the neck to the bottom of the neck, almost like a looped off system.




My boost is at 6 psi so I'm guessing my boost control solenoid is allowing my wastegate to be activated on spring pressure alone, so I plan on removing that system and adding inline an EBC.

How I'm going to do this the simplest and most efficient way is what I'm trying to determine.

If somebody could circle what all those parts are on one of the vacuum diagrams that would rock.

Edit: NJGreenBudd, I appreciate you putting up with my noobness, but I have done many searches. I'm not a lazy person but I was given a car that has been hacked up by the previous owner and I am just trying to undo the stupidity that occurred and make my car a better car. My power steering is being converted to a manual rack because my power rack looks like this:

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

Anybody know what these are? Cmon! I even have pictures!