Well I just set my timing again for the 10th time....and for some reason after following directions in the FSM and lining up the pulley with the first mark....i cant get it to align. Its about a cm to the left if your facing in the direction of the radiator.

Currently i dont have emissions, block of plates on the the block, 3 inch exhaust, ported wastegate?

Can not having the block off plates cause idle to be off?
Anybody experience this and able to correct it?
The timing being to the left is this retarded or advanced?
and is this a problem for the block?

please help thanks.

Saheed

 

Your using a timing light? And rotating the CAS til the mark on the pulley aligns with the fixed pin. Engine fully warmed up? Idle speed well below 1100 rpm?

 

Yes to all of the above. and i stil have issues with timing....

 

I'm not understanding. What is the deal? Engine is idling, your using a timing light, rpms are well under 1100 rpm, and the first mark is not aligning with the fixed pin on the front cover.

Soooo......you loosened the cinch bolt for the CAS and turned the CAS to get the mark on the pulley to be opposite the fixed pin on the front cover.

What's the deal? The CAS won't move far enough to get the mark to align with the pin? Slot in the CAS not long enough? Bottoms out against the cinch bolt?

In the attached jpg look at the Leading mark on the pulley. If it is to the right of the fixed pin in the jpg, then the cas needs to be rotated to get it to align. CW if memory serves.

Or have you tried this numerous times and run out of room to rotated the CAS ???? Even though you have reinstalled the CAS numerous times and still have that problem?

 

it sounds as if hes trying to align the trailing mark instead of the leading mark which shouldnt be aligned. idk
your aligning using the mark thats on the right, right?

 

yeh i am haveing the same problem by i cant find the marks crank pulley is too drity all i see is a chip mark

 

same problem as what no one explained what there exact problem is.can you not get it to line up by moving the cas or what?

 

ok here is the issue. I stab the CAS properly by aligning the lil do on the gear with the alignment mark on the cas. Position it so it enters the cas straight. And stab it so that it goes in straight. Before stabing this of course i have rotated the pulley so that the first mark on the pulley lines up with the pin.

Then i start the car...let it warm up fully, and rpms read around 800-900 give or take a few. then i take my timing gun and check where the alignment is. and if my math serves me correct using this formula theta = s/r to find the angle between the first mark and the pin and its about 51-60 degrees off. So i turn the cas all the way to the right and it comes to be about 7-10 degrees bout.5-.75cm off from where the first mark is but wont align with the first mark.

Thats my problem ^_^

 

the "chip" or "notch" in the pulley is the leading mark, on my pulleys the paint was gone also,

 

are you watching to see if its lined up while you are turning the cas slowly at the same time?
did you recently remove the pulley for any reason?
if u are watching closely to see if its lined up while turning the cas and have never removed the front pulley then that could only mean you didnt stab the cas right. the best way is to take off the black cap of the cas, align the marks on the bottom gear look at the top to see how the gear on top is arranged then stab it, then if its moved you know its off and adjust accordingly.

 

pulley was removed from a seized motor that i previously had and put on this one. After talkin to ray at malloy...and thinkin really hard...the only thing i can possibly think of that could be the problem is the pulley's were marked in correctly.....Im gonna try and find another set and check again. Thanks Ill post whether it fixed anything or not in a couple of days.

 

Align the pulley mark across from the fixed pin.

Remove the black cover off the CAS.

Now follow the FSM instructions for installing the CAS (aligning the dimple etc on the bottom of the CAS).

But just prior to doing the stabbing, look in the top of the CAS and note the position of the two pointers on top of the shaft. Note how they are almost exactly cutting across the corner of the two black coils inside the CAS.

Now stab the thing. Once stabbed, rotate the CAS body til the pointers are where you saw them in the paragraph above. Now start the engine and try again with the timing light.

There is also another little problem you might have caused when putting the engine together. The drive gear for the CAS is on the ececentric shaft. It's supposed to go on one way. But can be put on the other way. The manual says the champfer on the gear is supposed to face the engine. IF you put it on the other way, the engine will run just fine and dandy.....but you end up with your problem. The CAS can't rotate enough to let the marks on the pulley align with the fixed pin on the front cover.

I've been there/done that. Instead of taking the pan and front cover off and myrid other things, I elongated the groove in the CAS body to let the CAS rotate enough to match the timing marks (using timing light).

Looking at the gear, you can't decern much of any difference b/t putting it on with the champer fwd or aft, but the supple diff is there.

By the way, that car of mine with the elongated groove is fine and dandy. The timing marks nowalign and timing if fine. It's been years ago when I did that.

So if you change pulleys and the problem still exists, you have two options. Remove the pan, front cover,water pump etc OR just elongate the slot in the CAS body so it will rotate enough for the timing marks to align when using a timing light.

 

just for visual/future readers:

 

Hey look at my possting if you need. But i had the same problem for weeks. I set it and set it and so on, on day i was looking at it and the car was idling and then after 30minutes to 45 minutes i heard it idle down and rechecked the timing and i was right. I had it se the whole time but the car took so long to idle down. Thats what happened to me. Look at all my postings then find mine about timing problems or something. It was like my first post.

 

The ECU advances the timing anytime your over 1200rpm approx. That's why above I mentioned the rpms have to be well below 1100rpm or so. Pref 750 rpm.

Picture of CAS with cover off and dimples aligned on the bottom gear. I did this on a scanner and the shaft moved a touch. Pointers should be cutting the edge of the black coils.

 

I assumed you tried several times to restab the CAS and tried to install it off a gear one way or the other and it still results in the problem.

 

when you say elongate do you mean cut the metal things that stop the cas from turning either which way? im a bit confused.... O.o