So i was wondering what are the steps if any that need to be done to go from a standard 13b turbo II to a jdm turbo? Not sure if you have to do anything since the engine is for a right hand drive vehicle, or if you have to swap the ecu or any other modifications that have to be done... if anyone has some info or a page on a complete swap send it my way...

also on scale of 1-10 how difficult is it
price-wise: how much does it cost for a complete conversion

 

I dont know to much about it seeing as i havent swapped yet, I'm thinking about it as well but ive heard from alot of people its direct.

 

You're going from a USDM 13BT to a JDM 13BT?

 

next time do a search and you'll find it but anyways i was bored,

on my swap which was a S4 TII with a Jspec S5 TII motor i had to swap over the following

- S4 LIM/UIM
- S4 Injectors and Fuel Rails
- S4 TB and TPS
- S4 Wiring Harness and ECU
- S4 AFM

also depending on your choice you will have to replace the front cover because of the difference in oil metering pumps (s5 elec., s4 Mech.) I ended up buying a block off plate for the OMP and running premix. and also unless your running a aftermarket radiator the filler necks for the coolant are differen't, s4's are on the front cover and s5's are on the radiator so you'll have to figure that out. S4's also use a differen't tranny mount so if your going to be using a s5 tranny you will need a differen't mount which ppl on here sell all day long

if i missed anything someone else can chime in

 

wow sounds like a lot of work, and i am lazy so that might not be a good combination for me... hmm perhaps i will try to fix what pos motor i have in there now... wish i knew exactly what was wrong in it so it would save me the trouble of tearing apart and searching, and or wasting lots of money

 

whats the problem with it, if you can get a detailed explanation going on whats wrong with it im sure someone on here will be able to tell you whats up with it

 

its not a lot of work, if your car is a TII car, then just get the same series motor then you dont have to worry about swaping manifolds like RE TurboII did, but i have not found a importer that gives a startup warrenty on any rotary, so you could be buying a blown motor or you could get lucky and it will still be healthy.

 

well the problem is a rough or erratic idle, where the rpms will bounce back and forward between 900-1200 or so and it will run fine for a while but when you drive it for a bit once you come to a stop it will act like it's dying unless you feather the gas... otherwise it will die and then have issues restarting afterwards... dunno if cold weather has anything to do with it. the problem is i live in the midwest so there arent many rotary places around (if any) and also parts are hard to come by in Iowa

i've done a few things with my dad like replacing fuel system (ie injectors, o-rings, uim gasket, fuel tank, fuel pump/filters, alternator, oxygen sensor, cant remember what else

could be a manifold leak but not sure how to check for that other than to spray the manifold with dw40 or something like that

i heard you could do a smoke test but dont know how you do that

other issue could be compression and i really hope that isnt the case
the previous owner let this car sit outside for only god knows how long had to be at least a couple years and it makes me sad to see such an elegant TII go to waste

 

Start off checking these little things

- Vacuum hoses. if the idle is bouncing more of a slowly rising then its prolly that
- if its almost dying it could be because of a vacuum leak or maybe your AFM is going out.

i dont think it has anything to do with fuel system


from the sounds of everything it sounds to me like a vacuum leak, when i bought my TII i had the same issue and it turned out to be a ripped vacuum hose (happens on 20 year old cars). just go around the whole motor and check vacuum lines and make sure everything is good. if when you do drive it, it feels fine then im sure your compression is fine. A blown seal is a very noticeable thing

 

They're the same engine. Exactly (save for a few minor emissions differences). It's a direct swap.