Question for oil-know-it-alls
#1
we...yota...
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Question for oil-know-it-alls
Ok, I've read all the postings about oil brands and weights and all that from previous posts. From what I've learned, I'm continuing to run non-synthetic in my NA. What I would like to know is this, if diesel oils have better cleaning properties and will clean out carbon in the motor, even though causing plugs to foul which specific kind would be best to use for an engine cleaning? I'm wanting to run the diesel oil for maybe a couple hundred miles, then change it, as well as change plugs afterwards. Are there any non-synthetic(somewhat less expensive) diesel oils I should be staying away from or specifics that I should use?
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Do you still have the oil injection system hooked up on your engine? I don't know if diesels burn oil the way rotary engines do. Lots of people just undo the oil injection system and run premix 2 stroke oil in the gas tank.
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we...yota...
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I'm currently running both (if or until the MOP fails) just to be sure. I actually started a couple months ago after running several oil changes and using only 1/2 quart for around 2500 miles. It's an S5 BTW. Not sure how much other S5's burn with properly operating MOP's.
I'm just basically interested in cleaning any carbon out without doing the ATF messy, smokey, pain-in-the-*** trick. And probably do a little better job of it as well.
I'm just basically interested in cleaning any carbon out without doing the ATF messy, smokey, pain-in-the-*** trick. And probably do a little better job of it as well.
Last edited by Rattaan; 06-07-03 at 06:51 PM.
#4
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You can run MMO (marvel mistery oil) in your oil, and it will clean out carbon.
On the MMO botle it says you can run it in the gas and oil, or you could just pour it in the sprak plug wholes.
On the MMO botle it says you can run it in the gas and oil, or you could just pour it in the sprak plug wholes.
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Originally posted by Cory Simpson
You can run MMO (marvel mistery oil) in your oil, and it will clean out carbon.
On the MMO botle it says you can run it in the gas and oil, or you could just pour it in the sprak plug wholes.
You can run MMO (marvel mistery oil) in your oil, and it will clean out carbon.
On the MMO botle it says you can run it in the gas and oil, or you could just pour it in the sprak plug wholes.
j/k buddy
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Originally posted by Rattaan
I'm currently running both (if or until the MOP fails) just to be sure....
I'm currently running both (if or until the MOP fails) just to be sure....
#7
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by Project84
Where as the oil injection system is supposed to lube the apex seals and side seal, conventional engine oil was not designed to be burned. Thats where all the carbon comes from. If you use premix, you should go ahead and remove the oil injectors and pump since carbon seems to be a concern. There is a good write up on how to do it, and theres a link in the thread to a site that sells a block off plate for the metering pump for $10.
Where as the oil injection system is supposed to lube the apex seals and side seal, conventional engine oil was not designed to be burned. Thats where all the carbon comes from. If you use premix, you should go ahead and remove the oil injectors and pump since carbon seems to be a concern. There is a good write up on how to do it, and theres a link in the thread to a site that sells a block off plate for the metering pump for $10.
All engine oils burn way below the actual combustion chamber temps that happen in our cars. Even the most heat resistant synthectic burns at or under 500F. The problem I am starting to see on cars using pre-mix is that the pre-mix flash point is so radically low that the oil is burned off before it can even seep into the seals as it needs too.
If Carbon is a concern look for oils that are low in ash content. But just blocking off the MOP IMO is a waste of time and gains nothing, but early engine failure.
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I've been looking for ash content of oils on the web but I can only find a few listed and that's mostly for synthetics. Is there a site that has all different types, as in dino oil too, listed with thier ash contents?
#9
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
most of the time you will need to go to the actual web site for the oil company, but here is a good list:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
As a referance in a Rotary you will want an ash content lower than .99 % (less than 1%)
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
As a referance in a Rotary you will want an ash content lower than .99 % (less than 1%)
#11
Originally posted by Icemark
But just blocking off the MOP IMO is a waste of time and gains nothing, but early engine failure.
But just blocking off the MOP IMO is a waste of time and gains nothing, but early engine failure.
#12
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Try this to de-carbon your motor:
I've done it and it didn't hurt anything. And I've helped a new 7 owner do it and he reported that his engine was running better afterwards...
Originally posted by hypntyz7
Personally Im a fan of redlining any car I drive (that isnt being broken in from a rebuild or just had a used engine installed that week) once per driving session, be that once per day, once per week, or 5 times a day.
Now, about this maintenance debate. I am personally a fan of water injection. Not the type turbo guys run to keep intake temps down, but the type you do in your driveway as a maintenance procedure. Find a vacuum line or lines (teed together) that feed both the front and rear rotors, grab the throttle and rev the engine up to 4k or so, and dip the hose in a jug of water and let it drink. The water gets pulled in, hits the rotors and turns to steam, and takes carbon (slowly) with it.
If you're starting with an original/old used engine, Id do this 3-4 times weekly for about a month to clean as much as you can out. I'd also do 2-3 gallons per treatment. From then on, once per month. IF Im maintaining a rebuilt engine, I do this once per month or once per thousand miles to keep everything clean inside.
I have torn down engines where I had previously done this treatment, and they are always very clean, if not carbon-less altogether. The water treatment, along with straight premix, would result most likely in a rotary engine that lasted over 200k miles as the rule, rather than the exception.
Personally Im a fan of redlining any car I drive (that isnt being broken in from a rebuild or just had a used engine installed that week) once per driving session, be that once per day, once per week, or 5 times a day.
Now, about this maintenance debate. I am personally a fan of water injection. Not the type turbo guys run to keep intake temps down, but the type you do in your driveway as a maintenance procedure. Find a vacuum line or lines (teed together) that feed both the front and rear rotors, grab the throttle and rev the engine up to 4k or so, and dip the hose in a jug of water and let it drink. The water gets pulled in, hits the rotors and turns to steam, and takes carbon (slowly) with it.
If you're starting with an original/old used engine, Id do this 3-4 times weekly for about a month to clean as much as you can out. I'd also do 2-3 gallons per treatment. From then on, once per month. IF Im maintaining a rebuilt engine, I do this once per month or once per thousand miles to keep everything clean inside.
I have torn down engines where I had previously done this treatment, and they are always very clean, if not carbon-less altogether. The water treatment, along with straight premix, would result most likely in a rotary engine that lasted over 200k miles as the rule, rather than the exception.
I've done it and it didn't hurt anything. And I've helped a new 7 owner do it and he reported that his engine was running better afterwards...
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