Ok, I've read all the postings about oil brands and weights and all that from previous posts. From what I've learned, I'm continuing to run non-synthetic in my NA. What I would like to know is this, if diesel oils have better cleaning properties and will clean out carbon in the motor, even though causing plugs to foul which specific kind would be best to use for an engine cleaning? I'm wanting to run the diesel oil for maybe a couple hundred miles, then change it, as well as change plugs afterwards. Are there any non-synthetic(somewhat less expensive) diesel oils I should be staying away from or specifics that I should use?

 

Do you still have the oil injection system hooked up on your engine? I don't know if diesels burn oil the way rotary engines do. Lots of people just undo the oil injection system and run premix 2 stroke oil in the gas tank.

 

I'm currently running both (if or until the MOP fails) just to be sure. I actually started a couple months ago after running several oil changes and using only 1/2 quart for around 2500 miles. It's an S5 BTW. Not sure how much other S5's burn with properly operating MOP's.

I'm just basically interested in cleaning any carbon out without doing the ATF messy, smokey, pain-in-the-*** trick. And probably do a little better job of it as well.

 

You can run MMO (marvel mistery oil) in your oil, and it will clean out carbon.

On the MMO botle it says you can run it in the gas and oil, or you could just pour it in the sprak plug wholes.

 

*goes to check his car for sprak plug wholes*

j/k buddy

 

Where as the oil injection system is supposed to lube the apex seals and side seal, conventional engine oil was not designed to be burned. Thats where all the carbon comes from. If you use premix, you should go ahead and remove the oil injectors and pump since carbon seems to be a concern. There is a good write up on how to do it, and theres a link in the thread to a site that sells a block off plate for the metering pump for $10.

 

No, I (and I think Aaron Cake will back me on this) am finding more and more that actually using premix increases the amount of carbon, and as a replacement for the injection system lowers the amount of oil directly to the seals that oil injection does.

All engine oils burn way below the actual combustion chamber temps that happen in our cars. Even the most heat resistant synthectic burns at or under 500F. The problem I am starting to see on cars using pre-mix is that the pre-mix flash point is so radically low that the oil is burned off before it can even seep into the seals as it needs too.

If Carbon is a concern look for oils that are low in ash content. But just blocking off the MOP IMO is a waste of time and gains nothing, but early engine failure.

 

I've been looking for ash content of oils on the web but I can only find a few listed and that's mostly for synthetics. Is there a site that has all different types, as in dino oil too, listed with thier ash contents?

 

most of the time you will need to go to the actual web site for the oil company, but here is a good list:

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html

As a referance in a Rotary you will want an ash content lower than .99 % (less than 1%)

 

Thanks Mark.

 

All but 3 of the oil injectors I've removed in the past little while didnt work, and the majority of them leaked vacuum. I also know more than a couple people who solved cronic vacuum leaks by removing the oil injectors. I suggest using a high quailty premix and blocking off the oil injectors.

 

Try this to de-carbon your motor:



I've done it and it didn't hurt anything. And I've helped a new 7 owner do it and he reported that his engine was running better afterwards...