I will be doing a rebuild soon and am wanting to do something about the exhaust sleeves. I had a few questions as ive never really messed with them before. 1st, how do they come out? 2nd, I am either going to remove them completely, or put in T2 exhaust sleeves. I basically would just like to know how they come out and go back in. It seems like there are just 2 pins, but Im not sure. Thanks..

 

I too am curious, I wanna get some sleeves that actually promote flow, or at least some inserts.

 

KiyoKix: Did you ever see my post on the custom exhaust sleeves I had made for my engines? They completely replace the factory sleeves. The opening is the exact same shape and size through the sleeve as it is in the rotor housing itself. This leaves high velocity and minimal turbulence. The result is about 30% (Give or take a percent or two or three depending on your handiwork) better flow through the ports with no enlargening of the port. Make the port and sleeve opening larger and improve it more. With a properly designed exhaust manifold you will use smaller diameter exhaust pipes. Generally 1 3/4". Smaller pipe but with better flow equals more velocity through the exhaust with no restrictive losses. A properly designed and tuned exhaust will yield very nice power gains. It needs a custom exhaust manifold/header to work properly though since the port openings are oval instead of round. I have one set left (that I acquired since that post) but am about to have more made. They come very rough so the user can port match them at their convenience. These are very very hard metal so if you don't have a die grinder you will not be able to port them out. Dremels will not work. May as well use a spoon.

I am also working on plans for a simple insert which will work almost as good without the need to take the engine apart. Obviously these inserts will not work on '86-'91 n/a engines. To complicate things further pre-86 sleeves and post-86 sleeves are different sized so inserts that work in GSL-SE's won't work in T-II's and 3rd gens. I'm not even going to touch 12A's. I am very busy so these are not on top of my priority list right now. If there is enough interest they could be but past attempts by many people have proven that it is either not cost effective (unreasonably, insultingly cheap offers) or there is not enough serious interest to warrant a large production number. After the initial plans are drawn up in CAD and programmed into a computer then production is merely just the cost of materials and a small amount of labor. I have priced the custom exhaust flanges needed and they would be arond $50 apiece! They would be 1/2" thick stainless though. Compare that to the mild steel $18 Racing Beat flanges and many people start to complain about price. I estimate everything (sleeves and flange to be in the $150 range. Hopefully. This doesn't include and installation labor, porting labor, or any of the associated exhaust plumbing needed. Not a cheap bolt on mod but 90% of your performance upgrades are going to be at 10% of your total price leaving the last 10% in performance at 90% of your total price. Every extra horsepower costs more and more.

I don't have dyno numbers and I'm not going to have them. My primary intention in making them is not for resale reasons but rather the use of me and my friends in our engines. If I'm not trying to market them to the general public then I have nothing to prove to anyone. There have been a few running cars using them though and they are nice. If anyone is interested I can have them made up but I will not provide dyno numbers or charts. Anyone using a STOCK exhaust manifold will probably have zero gain anyways.

 

It is possible to grind down the exhaust sleeves with a dremel, but it took me a LONG time.

 

With a die grinder I can grind out a stock sleeve in a few minutes. A dremel! Damn you got patience.

 

That's it. Pull or Drill out the two pins and the sleeve will pretty much fall out in your hand.

 

And to reinstall you need new pins? And they will just pound in or what?