I bought an e-fan directly from zirgo and it states in the manual that it comes as a puller type fan and if I want it to be a pusher type fan I just have to unscrew the fan from the electric motor flip it around and reverse the polarities when wireing it up.


What I wanna know is what's the difference ?
Is the stock clutch fan on rotary engines are they push type or pull type ?
And whoever is using an e-fan what type of e-fan is it push or pull ?

 

Your stock fan- and the efan you replace it with- should be a "puller"...i.e., it's pulling air through the rad.
A 'push" setup would have the fan in front of the radiator.

 

Use as a "puller" and use the stock shroud. Wire it up to a TII fan switch mounted past the T-Stat. No worries.

 

If I have an e-fan installed, why do I need the stock shroud ?
And also when I purchased this e-fan I also bought a relay and temp switch and wireing kit. So the fan will automaticly turn on at 180 degrees F. The thing is it's a big *** temp sensor. And I dont wanna have to drill and tap a new hole in the water pump housing to make it fit.

Can I splice a wire from the water temp switch that's connected to the ECU and wire it to the relay for the fan to kick in when necessary ? I am using a GM water temp switch from a Grand Prix GTP wired to my Haltech E6X.

 

its advised to rock a shroud so it pulls air directly through all of the rad, otherwise it wont be optimized and probably will only pull air out of a small area where the fan is at since it is pretty much open to pull air out of everywhere.

 

Well I got a pretty big e-fan. It almost covers the whole rad. It's 16"x16.1" and flows 3000cfm. So I dont know is a shroud still realy necessary ?

 

post a pic of the fan. Some come with their own shroud.

 

Although you rarely see it done, using the shroud does have several advantages.
First of all you do get more even airflow through the core but the biggest advantage is eliminating the "dead spot" caused by the fan's hub (which can be fairly large on some electric fans).

It might also make for a quieter set up...high CFM fans can be quite loud.
I'm still toying with my fan setup so I can't claim this for sure but initially it seems to be true.

It's also worth noting that -with the stock radiator at least- the efan setups I've tried (four, so far) are not significantly better than the car's original fan arrangement.
If anything, the efan is slightly better sitting at a light- since it'll pull the same CFM at idle as WOT- but you have to balance this against the increased draw on the electrical system.

 

you haltech is able to tell the fan when to come on- no need for any additional relays or temp senders.
You can then set when the fan comes on and off thru the haltech

dont wire up anything else for this purpose

 

I'm not sure what the details are with that fan, but you can certainly skip the thermostat and just use the Haltech to switch it.

You will need a relay wired to one of the Haltech's aux outputs as the ECU cannot drive the fan directly.

 

I should have specified that, you will only need to power the fan, nothing else to tell it when to turn on and off

 

well here's the link to where I got the fan if you wanna check it out. http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/zirgo...nc=coolingfans

 

I had that fan, lasted 2 hours before it crapped out.

Waiting on my warranty fan but meanwhile I got another one