FCFreakman

Hey, guys, need a lil bit of advices here. As the title say, my clutch pedal stays to the floor once u stop on the clutch. In the Haynes book it says broken release bearing or binding release fork. I am just wondering if there is another easy way to do this without replacing the clutch. Short on money right now. This is off of a TII S5.


Thanks

TongassT

Try bleeding the clutch first.

turboIIrotary

iTrader: (9)

your slave or master cylinder is going out.

ShadowSplat

bleed the system first. if your clutch pedal doesn't return to it's normal postition, it's the master cylinder. if you find that you have to pump the pedal multiple times to return pressure to the system, it's the slave cylinder.

FCFreakman

So you guy think it could be master cylinder? Cuz i had a new slave cylinder put in. Yea i try to bleed it but since it doesnt return i cant really bleed it. So what i did was i manually moved back and forward to bleed it until there was no air bubble.

Thanks guys.

Jpk3200

When you put the slave cylinder in, you should have put a new master in. Both have been in there for the same amount of time => they should fail around the same time.

ivegonemad

ding ding ding!!^can you engage any gear?? if not theyre both bye bye and time for new ones..

traderguy

Mine was doing the exact same thing..I replaced both the slave and master--been working like a champ since...

FCFreakman

icic, i will get a new master cylinder then. well when i first started up i had a hard time starting since the clutch was on the floor, so bleed it and it started fine but pedal was still on the floor at the same time my throttle cable was adjusted too tightly so it was reving at 2100 rpm. it can switch into gear fine without grinding.
so question now, how can i check that it is the the release bearing or release fork problem?
More Info: i can move the release fork by hand effortless. good sign?

Thanks

MazterDizazter

iTrader: (5)

Typically when one goes, the other is not far behind. I replaced both master and slave cylinders at the same time; problem solved. If you only replaced one, chances are the other couldn't take the increased pressure from the new unit and failed.

FCFreakman

ICIC. But how can i make sure that it is not the clutch or release fork problem?


Thanks

Furious D

This is the exact same thing that happened to me on friday. I phoned the shop that I take my car to and they thought it may be a leaking resevoir. They made it sound like it was underneath the car near the clutch for some reason. Anybody familiar with this.

RXinator

If your slave or master cylinder were failing they will display as a leak. They fail due to the cracking or wearing of a neoprene cup inside of the cylinder that is the body of the assembly. Peel back the outer boot, if you have fluid there its failing. Same issue with brake wheel cylinders if you see seepage ( usually on the rims) its failing. The slave cylinder has a center rod that attaches to the clutch fork. Look under the car near the bell housing of the tranny, locate the slave. Verify that its mounted properly & tight to the tranny. Have an assist operate the clutch. If it depresses the lever (clutch fork) & then sticks, remove the clip connecting the rod from the lever & see what happens. The rod in the slave cylinder should return on its own into the slave housing. If this happens, & the clutch lever is still depressed, your issue is in the clutch assembly. If the clutch lever releases (after removing the clip) & returns, then you may have a defective slave cylinder. Caution!! with the slave disconnected from the clutch lever be gentle with pedal operation. Slammin it to the floor can pop the seals & you'll have to reassemble the slave. Also look to the pedal assembly, under the dash, to make sure all of the springs are connected that bring the pedal back up. In fact start there. looking for the simple stuff & the last thing that changed can save hours under the hood. .......rxinator

FCFreakman

Clip on the back of the fork or clip on the pedal? Cause the only clip i can think of on the fork is behind the fork. Can you please explain it a lil bit clearer? Sorry i dont really get it.

Thanks for the advices

FCFreakman

Anyone else know what could be wrong? Any advices will be very HELPFUL.


Thanks

FCFreakman

Any other suggestion? Any help will be fine.


THANKS

309

i had the same problem a couple weeks ago..usually the master goes first. as far as i understand from the posts, you just changed the release cylinder and the problem is still there? the master is what you need to change..its not that expensive. no need to change the whole clutch. but yea, like someone said, try bleeding the air out first.

traderguy

again.. I had the same thing happen I would try changing the master first..It is really easy to change and not expesive..I did not have any signs of leaking and one or both of mine were bad..I think in took a total of 45min to change both bleed the system and have a beer...Dan

FCFreakman

Thanks Guy for all the advices.

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

Mine did this when the line going to the slave got a little hole in it. I replaced the line and it's not dont this since...

fcforlife

iTrader: (9)

find yourself something to clamp down on the clutch line going from the master to the slave.(make sure whatever you use will not damage the line if you can go to autozone and ask for a line lock. cheap little device meant for this.) clamp the line then pump the pedal if it gets pressure and starts to feel normal then you have a lot of air in the line. if it doesn't you have a failed master cylinder.

FCFreakman

ICIC, but i have Stainless steel line for it.


Thanks

RXinator

Freakman, did you ever resolve that clutch issue?

FCFreakman

No, not yet. I dont have the money right now to resolve anything. But thanks guy for the support.

HAILERS

You could go to the clutch slave cylinder (just aft of the oil filter area). Reach around to the aft side of it (slave cylinder) where there is a rubber boot. Feel for any leakage. Usually it'll be real wet around the rubber boot is the slave has gone.

As for the clutch master, you look inside the car where the linkage/rod from the clutch pedal goes into the clutch master cylinder. IF it's leaking there brake fluid will be running down the bulkhead getting the floor mat wet with brake fluid. Eventually it'll drip on the gnd under the car.

If either of the items above are leaking, then when you go to the clutch reservoir, you'll find it depleted. Sorry, I didn't read the whole thread. You might fill the reservoir up with fluid and pump the clutch pedal if you need to move the car a short distance........if the leak isn't too bad. If it's a slow leak, you might be able to drive it for a short distance before running out of fluid again.

Since the pedal is to the floor, you'd have to fill the reservoir and then grab the pedal with your hand and pump the pedal that way. Maybe even loosen the bleed screw on the slave just a tash before doing so, then as some resistance is felt on the pedal, close the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Then keep pumping.