ok, so i've got the hard pipe off, but i can't find the nuts in the driver's side footwell that hold the cyl. in place. do i have to remove the entire pedal assembly or what? i got the slave cyl. taken care of pretty easily, but the master is confusing the **** outta me.

 

Look for where the clutch pushes through the firewall from inside the car. There will be two nuts, one on each side.

 

Yeah man like Crionics mentioned there are two of them one on each side of the piston/rod that comes through the wall.

 

this one? there's one similar on the other side, but it's staggered. those are the only two i see.

 

picture

 

anybody? i need this car running by saturday

 

that's it. The other one is on the other side of the rod and up a bit, like diagonal.

 

i'll try it. however, the bolts aren't staggered on the master cylinder. it's a S5 if that matters. i'll let ya know how it goes.

 

Yes, the bolts on the clutch MC are on a diagonal. Have fun getting your head up there

PaulC

 

i'm pretty damned skinny, should be alright.

 

those bolts are such a pain to get off using a box wrench

 

pretty simple man..should take five minutes.....even the mechanically declined should be able to do it.....just lie back on ur seat....stick ur head up in the footwell.....make sure u have a 12mm wrench, not a sucket unless its a deep socket and be preppared to turn the thing at least a few hundred times in the top right corner because its a tight space and doesnt allow much moving space..by the way u put in a new master as well....didi u replace the hose.....i changed three masters and two slaves and still didnt work unil i got a new hose....peace

 

alright, replaced it, but when i went to bleed it there was no pedal pressure. anyone got any ideas?

 

Loosen a line at the master to prime it.
Then secure the line & pump the bubbles out the calipers.

 

I went and bought a 10mm long-reach socket to get it out. Nothing else could reach.

 

for the clutch?

 

3is..

Head to the autoparts store, look for a brake master cylinder bench bleed kit, shouldn't cost more than 5-6 bucks. It comes iwth a bunch of adapters, find the one that threads down into the fitting on the clutch master clyinder, feed the rubber line back into the top of the reseviour. Pump the clutch until no more air bubbles are seen in the reseviour.

Then reattach the hardline, and bleed from the slave.

G'luck.

PaulC

 

alright, i got everything on and working today. i didn't even think about pumping the clutch pedal a thousand times until earlier today it hit me. my flex line is now leaking though, so i've got a SS line from mazdatrix on the way. thank you all for helping me get my 7 back on the road. it's nice to know you guys are here to help.
brian