2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

question about CEL codes. 1, 12, 18

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Old Oct 27, 2007 | 04:18 PM
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question about CEL codes. 1, 12, 18

so i got the codes for my 91 s5 n/a
they came up:
1. Trailing Ignition coil
12. Throttle Sensor (full range)
18. Throttle Sensor (narrow range)

as for #1, i checked my wires and plugs, they were both fine. i replaced plugs and wires w/ ngk in DEC 06. so not even a year ago.
as for 12 and 18 i have no idea what to check or fix.
i did search but couldnt find anything.
so any help is appercaited.
thanks
Nick
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 12:26 PM
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anybody? i need some assistance
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 12:37 PM
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i through codes 12 and 18 also and i was told to adjust the tps.
i was also given sites for adjusting the tps but it was hard to understand but here is one of them.
http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/TPS_Adjustment
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 02:05 PM
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ah so it is the tps? i was confused cause it only said throttle sensor...
thanks for the link. i guess ill be doing that soon enough
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 02:11 PM
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if it's tripping the codes, you'll probably have to replace the TPS itself. $360 from mazdatrix.

Read the FSM, maybe it'll tell you how to check the coil itself.
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by DRFT211
as for #1, i checked my wires and plugs, they were both fine.
Nothing wrong with checking them, but this error code has nothing to do with the plugs and wires, only the ignition coil itself.

The FSM's Fuel & Emission Control Systems chapter has troubleshooting procedures for every error code. Go to the self-diagnosis section on page F1-22 and follow the instructions. Tell us what you find.
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 11:43 AM
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Code# Input Device malfunction Fail-safe function
01 trailing ignition coil malfunction of spark plug, broken wire, short circuit Trailing side ignitions pulse cut 02 crank angle sensor (ne sensor) broken wire, short circuit fuel injection and ignition cut
03 crank angle sensor (g sensor) broken wire, short circuit fuel injection and ignition cut
05* knock sensor Broken wire, short circuit Ignition timming retarded
08 airflow meter (AFM) broken wire, short circuit basic fuel injection amount and fixed timing
09 water thermosensor broken wire, short circuit coolant temp fixed at 80 degrees C (176F)
10 intake air thermosensor (AFM) broken wire, short circuit intake air temp fixed at 20C (68F)
11 intake air thermosensor (engine) broken wire, short circuit intake air temp fixed at 20C (68F)
12 Throttle sensor (full range) broken wire, short circuit throttle valve opening angle signal fixed at 20% 13 pressure sensor (intake manifold) broken wire, short circuit intake pressure fixed at 760 mmHg (29.9 inhg)
14 atmospheric pressure sensor malfunctioning ECU at. Pressure fixed at 760 mmHg
15 oxygen sensor oxygen sensor output remains below 0.55v 80 sec. after F/B system operation beginning feedback system canceled(for EGI)
17 feedback system oxygen sensor output remains 0.55v 10 sec. after F/B system operation beginning feedback system canceled(for EGI)
18 throttle sensor (narrow range) broken wire, short circuit signal fixed at full open
20 metering oil pump position sensor broken wire, short circuit Mop fixed smallest open. basic fuel amount and timing fixed
27 metering oil pump (MOP) malfunctioning MOP, step motors, broken wire, short circuit, or malfunctioning ECU Mop fixed smallest open,basic fuel amount and timing fixed
37 metering oil pump (MOP) malfunctioning MOP, step motors, broken wire, short circuit, or malfunctioning ECU basic fuel amount and timing fixed



i found that some where, thats where i got my info from.
and thats why i thought it was just my plugs/ wires

but one question about all of this. my car still runs completely the same as when i bought it two years ago. no idle problems, no hesitation nothing. still pulls hard threw every gear. so i guess heres my question, should i fix it, or just let it go?
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 06:27 PM
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You should always fix a check engine light.....

Btw, what happens when you start the car from cold with the AWS and let the car warm up? Any problems?
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DRFT211
i found that some where, thats where i got my info from.
and thats why i thought it was just my plugs/ wires
That's refering to the wires between the coil and ECU.

should i fix it, or just let it go?
Don't ignore error codes. Look in the FSM and do what I said above. If you don't have the FSM, click here and download it in PDF format for free.
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 12:30 PM
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i already looked at the fsm.. it is all very confusing for me. i dont know how to test "continuity" and everything. should/can i buy a used tps from a junk yard? and ill probably end up just buying a new trailing coil also.
is that the best way to go about things, just to replace both?

as for cold starts. it will do its 3k rev then just idle fine until warm up.
the only problem i have is when i hot start it. if ive been driving a while, stop for gas or soemthing, then start it back up, its wants to stall so i have to give it gas until i get moving. but it doesnt have any problems after i bring it back down to idle.
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 01:12 PM
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used TPS will most likely be blown also. It's rare to find a working one, I've only found one in the 20 or so that I've seen, and that was on a decently maintained car.
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 05:03 PM
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damn thats not waht i wanted to hear. idk about buying a new one for 360 bucks...
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 05:28 PM
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most ppl just get a used one and live with the annoyances of a slightly out of spec tps
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 08:23 PM
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so should i just not mess with it. but still fix the trailing coil? cause its not bothering me at all..
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by DRFT211
i already looked at the fsm.. it is all very confusing for me. i dont know how to test "continuity" and everything. should/can i buy a used tps from a junk yard? and ill probably end up just buying a new trailing coil also.
is that the best way to go about things, just to replace both?
No, because you still don't know what's actually wrong. An error code doesn't mean the component is faulty, it just means the ECU is seeing a signal outside the normal range. It could be a faulty component, but it could also be a loose, dirty or broken connector, or a wiring problem. That's why replacing the component is the last thing listed on the troubleshooting procedure.

Testing continuity means sending an electrical signal down a wire to make sure there are no breaks, i.e. it's electrically continuous. This is done with a multimeter. If you don't have one or don't know how to use one, get someone who does to help you, or pay a mechanic.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 08:00 AM
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i did check all the connectors and wires around the coil and tps they were a little dirty but none looked to be in bad shape. im going to clean them well this weekend and reset my ecu and go from there.
thanks for the help guys
Nick
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